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Mitsubishi LT-30 Cardas Rewire

Aerobat

Class A all the way
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I've thought for a while that my LT-30 sounded kind of "flat" and lifeless compared to the same cart in my Pioneer, and suspected it was the high capacitance of the internal signal wiring. Total capacitance from the headshell to the RCA plugs was 310pf, but the interconnects are only 67pf. So something inside was creating a lot of capacitance.

As you can see in this pic, the tonearm wire takes a circuitous route from the tonearm base to the interconnects. There's an extra 30" of shielded wire inside the table because of this.
Mitsu%20LT-30%20006%20%281024x768%29.jpg



Here's the signal wire after removing it:
Mitsu%20LT-30%20rewire%20004%20%281024x576%29.jpg



I had an extra foot of Cardas tonearm wire, so I decided to rewire it with a more direct route from the tonearm base to the interconnects. I left the wiring inside the tonearm intact. Here's the Cardas wire after soldering to the muting board:
Mitsu%20LT-30%20rewire%20006%20%281024x576%29.jpg



And here's the new wiring arrangement, with the signal wire exiting the tonearm base and going straight to the interconnects instead of being mixed in with that wad of wiring:
Mitsu%20LT-30%20rewire%20007%20%281024x576%29.jpg



The result? A 213pf reduction in capacitance, for a total of only 97pf from end to end. The sound improvement was immediately noticeable -- brighter, airier, and more lively. I made sure the new wiring wasn't hanging up or rubbing as the transport moved back and forth before closing it up.

I'd be interested in hearing from other LT-30 owners who have access to a capacitance meter.

Now to spin some more vinyl :D
 
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Mark,

Fantastic work on a really nice table.

I've used both Litz and Cardas on numerous re-wires with great results.

I totally see how the factory wiring would be detrimental to sound- both in length and in the way it was routed.

Any concerns with the new re-wire in regards to strain relief or concern of the wiring hanging up along it's travel path?

Perhaps a plexiglass shield or guard could be employed?
 
Nice job you did there. I wish I had access to a meter as mine is upside down waiting on a belt. I don't have Cardas wire but I think the Star Quad microphone cable I made the IC's out of should work if I single it out instead of running two pair. What do you think?
 
Mark,

Fantastic work on a really nice table.

I've used both Litz and Cardas on numerous re-wires with great results.

I totally see how the factory wiring would be detrimental to sound- both in length and in the way it was routed.

Any concerns with the new re-wire in regards to strain relief or concern of the wiring hanging up along it's travel path?

Perhaps a plexiglass shield or guard could be employed?

I was concerned about that. Mitsubishi was kind enough to put smooth plastic on the inside of the bottom cover, under the tonearm transport, so I suppose they anticipated wires dragging back and forth on the bottom.

I actually put the table on the edge of the counter and watched the transport move back and forth. The Cardas wire was touching in one spot so I wrapped some electrical tape there. I think it'll be fine.
 
Nice job you did there. I wish I had access to a meter as mine is upside down waiting on a belt. I don't have Cardas wire but I think the Star Quad microphone cable I made the IC's out of should work if I single it out instead of running two pair. What do you think?

Mic cable sounds like a good option. I'd twist the 4 leads together.

Capacitance meters run around $40 and are a nice to have item if you're seriously into TTs.
 
Mic cable sounds like a good option. I'd twist the 4 leads together.

Capacitance meters run around $40 and are a nice to have item if you're seriously into TTs.

Use two pair for each channel? Or I pair per channel?
 
Nice job you did there. I wish I had access to a meter as mine is upside down waiting on a belt. I don't have Cardas wire but I think the Star Quad microphone cable I made the IC's out of should work if I single it out instead of running two pair. What do you think?

Mike, in case you're interested, you can get Cardas at KAB USA for a very affordable price.
 
I second Kab for the cardas wire, Its 4.85 for a foot of tonearm wire. In fact I need to order a few feet....

I picked up a cheap $20 capacitance meter from deal extreme, model number XC6013L. It works great and has been right on the ball with my desktop B&K meter.

KC
 
I thot the OEM arm wire very good, I replaced mine with Cardas as it was damaged as doc'ed in the restoration thread. Shortening the signal and ground wiring from the carriage to the terminal plate is recommended.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
The OEM arm wire is OFC copper and is good. No need to replace it unless it's damaged.
 
old ass thread i realize, but just wanted to say i'm going to do this! just bought 3' of kab/cardas. i noticed the same thing about this (sounding a bit flat) on a few carts, but especially my current one, a nagaoka mp-200 (which i hope can "keep up" with the table - it's not really super special outside the very nice boron cantilever - just an elliptical after all)
 
@Aerobat Very old thread, BUT — do you still have those photos? They don't show 8 years later. I got my LT22 6–7 years ago; I had to service it and while inside I saw how circuitous and indirect the wiring is. I resolved to re-wire it — but later, it was a new toy and I wanted to play.

But now I have to replace a bulb, which means opening it again. I have some Cardas on hand — but agree with your old statement "It's just a foot of wire, and I'd bet you could use most any kind of flexible wire with good results."
 
Hard to believe it's been 8 years. Yes I still have them. This is the new wire soldered to the board inside the tonearm base:

y4msR6ByH4ms14jFqNkB9Ycno4ely9d-TZfAg8hX0NbQoPMuYKohPB_i96Tfo0R7EhYj-unRHCtpIXXG-IDN6fFiG4geN4FVqNWcW-8eFHArlWZGMDu_U0Ux4DHhiZjBj0RuxTb2FCd_aRJGo9bYi3KZ0l_dTDpPXKIPw-kpI3dWvVVYPTx0iYe1p_WnhD_ajco



Here's it finished with the wire soldered to the interconnects.

y4mwXIF9nlbStSsZaufItxZRBcMKlD6n7foZ-x06Dx9tIG81xzYxuQYXw9aUKKqNeHMqQfQKu2nIW_-6CTc9pk-OMQYDdzZztdNJlQY2uXIFyttU3hKf8XJzBvpwHyVzBxn9e4iXDWLXZA5shNDnR_Id1NsZPuU2WUXK8A9ZHK2A84hTYd6wfD6bWKymmBjXG1G


Original configuration with the blue and gray wires making their circuitous route to the interconnects.

y4mUme9rgmQiFrdWX3IJKtw-Li6VwR26V3ooKbi_1nFQ_tOi3iYHD_sXYAs1LVK2kOR9rmX-Do5l-U0P2aLY0GsCp8NLsoSPaGj7AJvZ4X1GdubbDIoMJhEEzV6uO3OiHng0InUDWlgWnxli230tgSdfEm7ibYqCY-PhBdX3iCxfxFPVjlswxcq6ciN7C0pxpEM
 
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