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Acoustic Research AR94S restoration

leesonic

Captured on security camera...
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I thought I'd start a new thread covering my AR94S restoration. I bought these a couple of months ago, and just got into doing some work on them. From what I could tell, they had never been apart before, they still had the original cloth covering on them. I used a strong plastic spreader that I got from an auto body supply store to pop the tops off. Just squeeze it in through the gap, and it should come off easily, the plastic cuts down on any scrapes.

The woofer surrounds were totally rotten, and searching for new ones was difficult. Don't let anyone tell you that the two woofer surrounds are the same, they are not. Look at the pictures of the woofers below. The metal baskets and magnets might be the same, but the cones are not. Here are the measurements I took :

Upper Woofer
outer width of frame 8-1/8"
inner width of frame 7-1/8"
width of surround on frame 7-9/16"
outer roll edge 7"
inner roll edge 5-13/16"
width of cone 5-7/8"
width of surround on cone 5-3/8"
dust cap 2-1/2"

Lower woofer
outer width of frame 8-1/8"
inner width of frame 7-1/8"
width of cone 5-11/16"
dust cap 2-3/4"

AR94Swoofers1.jpg

The lower woofer has a folded thick paper cone, which appears to have some kind of coating or doping on it, and the original surround is attached to the rear of the cone.

AR94Swoofers2.jpg

The upper woofer has a formed paper cone, thinner than the lower woofer, with a thinner surround fixed to the front of the cone.

AR94Swoofers3.jpg

After speaking to several different speaker foam vendors, I finally went with some foams originally meant for JBL woofers, got them from Tom at myaudioaddiction. They had a wider section to attach to the cone, which was important for the lower woofers. Other vendors that sold two identical surrounds for the upper and lower woofers, when they gave me the measurements, I thought there wouldn't be much to attach the surround to the lower woofer cone. As with my other restorations, I chose to remove the dustcaps and shim the voice coils. Since the lower woofer cone didn't sit any further out at rest than the upper one, I chose to mount the surround onto the front of the cone. I still need to get some gaskets, or find a suitable trim ring to cover the edge of the surround and basket.

AR94Swoofers4.jpg

AR94Swoofers5.jpg

AR94Swoofers6.jpg

AR94Swoofers7.jpg

The tweeters had their dust caps pushed in. After trying duck tape, and a vacuum cleaner, I finally got the dust caps out by gluing a small wooden stick to them with a hot melt glue gun, and pulling the stick (and glue) off once it had set. In the picture, it still looks like they are dented, but the light areas are were a tiny layer of paper got pulled off with the glue. I plan to put some speaker "wet look" paint on them later.

AR94Stweeters1.jpg

The crossover on these things is weird. They have a capacitor and resistor in parallel, which is then in series with the two woofers. The lower woofer also has an air cored inductor in series with it. The tweeter just has a capacitor in series with it. AR have always gone with the simplistic approach to crossover design, but I wonder about that capacitor/resistor arrangement. I bought some new caps to replace the old ones, nothing fancy, just bipolar electrolytics from Parts Express.

AR94Sxover.gif

Lee.
 
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Found some interesting things going on with the crossovers. Look at these two pictures :

AR94Sresto01.jpg

AR94Sresto02.jpg

Notice anything?

OK, the second picture has no caps, I took those out, but look at the wiring. The red and white wires are transposed. If you look at the crossover diagram above, you'll see that the lower woofer runs through a big inductor to roll off the midrange frequencies. The crossover in one of these speakers had been wired up wrongly, which would have rolled off the midrange frequencies to the UPPER driver, while the lower one would be reproducing the midrange. Since this lower woofer is constructed differently to the upper, one would assume it wouldn't handle mid frequencies as well, otherwise they would have put in two of the same type woofers.

Which kind of makes the following statement printed on the bottom of the speakers a bit pointless :

AR94Sresto03.jpg

Hmmmm... anyway, I replaced the caps in both crossovers, and corrected the wiring fault.

AR94Sresto04.jpg

Here they are in all their (ahem) glory. New dust caps were fitted, I just need to find some gaskets to tidy up the edges of the drivers. Somehow, I don't think I'm going to want to put the grille sock back on, so I'm contemplating veneering the cabinets and making a front grille.

AR94Sresto05.jpg

AR94Sresto06.jpg

AR94Sresto07.jpg
 
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on my AR18's (woofer is the same as your "upper" midwoof, I used some black felt that I cut into about 3/8" wide strips to replace the foam gasket. some black weatherstrip would probably work, too.

another option to veneering would be to make a new sock, but with the front only being acoustically transparent, and something different (like a faux suede?) for the side and rear....
 
Nice Job! What are the part #s of the two woofers?? I did a similar job on a pair of AR-94Si speakers. The woofers on the Si's and I believe the Sx's are both the same (Part# 210067) and they both use the same foam mounted under the cone. My caps were 5uf and 40uf.
 
It must have been "Mary Jane Friday" when they did the crossovers in that capacitor-less speaker. :D Or someone has been in there before....
 
It must have been "Mary Jane Friday" when they did the crossovers in that capacitor-less speaker. :D Or someone has been in there before....

Oh no, I took the caps out. It was only then that I noticed the wiring fault.

Nice pictures and explanation...well done!

Thank you!

Nice Job! What are the part #s of the two woofers??

I'll get these next time I take them out. Even if I go back to the "sock" type grille, the cabinets could use a coat of hot rod flat black paint, so I'll pull the drivers again.

Great job! how do they sound.

Well, I was expecting the worst, what with a paper tweeter, and a capacitor in line with the woofers. But then I remember the pair of AR18S that I refoamed last year, and sold to a fellow AK'er. My wife and I thought they sounded better than my Bose 901s (using the correct equalizer for the Bose).

Loading up my bass test CD, and playing my favorite test track, these speakers went really low. I wondered how they would sound without the capacitor in series with the woofers? I have heard these speakers are inefficient, but on about 3-1/2 to 4 on the volume scale on my NAD3240, the whole room was shaking.

I then loaded up Dark Side of the Moon. The heartbeats were there from the start, and then after the crescendo on Breathe, something weird happened. It seemed that the guitar in the left channel (not the slide guitar) was coming from in front of the left speaker, not actually from the speaker itself. Treble was nice and smooth, not spitty like some paper cone tweeters. Then, when the vocals came in, I knew these would be keepers. On my Bose 901s, as soon as the vocals came in, I could hear a lot of coloration. It seemed like the plastic parts of the cabinet were resonating quite badly. Not so with these ARs, the vocals seemed free from any extra resonance.

So, all in all, I'm impressed with these speakers. The only thing that bothers me is the recessed baffle needed to make the whole "sock grille" work. But did it really work, after all, both tweeters were bashed in? I might measure up, and see if I can glue in a piece of 3/4" MDF in the recessed area. I could then maybe also moved the drivers up the baffle as well. With these woofers, it would be a shame to cover them up...

Lee.
 
I plan to put some speaker "wet look" paint on them later.

I would suggest that leaving the tweeters uncoated is the better choice. Any extra mass on tweeters may noticeably change the sensitivity and other parameters where such tiny movements are the norm.

Best to you,
John
 
You know not for anything, the Bose 901's are not a full range speaker, I know
a lot of people like them but, listening to them way back in stores who carried
them, I always thought there was something missing, but AR's were great
speakers.

Tube
 
I would suggest that leaving the tweeters uncoated is the better choice. Any extra mass on tweeters may noticeably change the sensitivity and other parameters where such tiny movements are the norm.

Best to you,
John

yeah, I think I'd lean towards this as well...if you want to get the color uniform I'd probably just hit them with a black felt tip marker.....

this tweet is among my faves, and these are essentially a 2.5way version of the 18....

are you sure about the crossover layout?

BTW, if you go here:
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/...special_sections/drawings/SpeakerDrawings.swf

there's actual AR drawings of the AR94 and 94SX crossovers (near the bottom of the list). the 94SX one is an actual schematic, and it shows a 2nd order low pass on the lower woofer, with 2 ohms of resistance attenuating it, and the upper woofer running full range with a 2 ohm resistor attenuating it

there were some 93's on the local craigslist I really wanted, but the guy wasn't budging on his price. they had never been worked on, so they needed refoams and recaps....I offered $65, figuring I'd have another $100 into them between 6 surrounds and new caps, and he responded by raising his $100 asking price to $150...
 
are you sure about the crossover layout?

BTW, if you go here:
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/...special_sections/drawings/SpeakerDrawings.swf

there were some 93's on the local craigslist I really wanted, but the guy wasn't budging on his price. they had never been worked on, so they needed refoams and recaps....I offered $65, figuring I'd have another $100 into them between 6 surrounds and new caps, and he responded by raising his $100 asking price to $150...

Wow! Thanks for the link, very informative. Did you read any of those documents about the 94? They call the lower driver a "lower mid range" and the upper drive a "woofer". And all those points to follow listed in the notes :

"the resistor must be not less than 1/2" from the board"

and

"cloth shall be secured with at least one staple."

Phew! If it were a Friday afternoon, I think I'd throw my beer can inside the cabinet and have done with it.

I marked all the drivers for the wire locations before disconnecting them. They show red and black for the upper woofer, white and green for the lower one. Interestingly enough, they reversed the wire colours for the 94SX, and put two separate resistors for the woofers, rather than just going through one. I think the next time I take them apart, I might put a switch on the bottom to bypass the resistor/capacitor combo just to see what it sounds like. If these were ported speakers, there would already be a pair of wires hanging out the port to do just that.

As for the 93s you were talking about, that's a shame the guy bumped up his price. Some people never learn, they think this stuff ages like wine. If you mean it turns to vinegar, then that's true. I reckon you could fix them for less than $100. No need to go with expensive caps, and you should be able to get surrounds for $30-40, send me a PM if you want to know where I got my surrounds (I don't think we're allowed to post that here). Do yourself a favour, and take measurements as I did.

Lee.
 
I had a couple quotes for the 6 surrounds on the 93's from a few of the site recommended sponsors, they came to about $50 or so by the time shipping was added in...and the time to refoam 6 drivers...yeah, the big cap I probably woulda gone NPE and solens for the top end, so it woulda been about $15-20 for caps in the pair of speaks...I think I offered $70, figuring I didn't want to be into them for more than $150 or so...
 
AR94s

Great work, I have a pair I picked up a GW for 20.00, Its my next project. Where did you order the surrounds from?
 
I ordered my surrounds from an eBay seller by the name of "myaudioaddiction", no affliation. They were actually meant for JBL woofers, this meant that they had a wider part of the surround where they attach to the cone. This is needed for the lower woofer as the cone is smaller.

Before you order, I would suggest that you strip your speakers down and take a look at the woofers, they might not be the same as mine, I've seen pictures of AR94S with different woofers.

Lee.
 
I'd like to know the part numbers of the two 8 inch drivers also. I'me restoring a pair of s's as well and have some funky numbers that don't jive with the AR dwgs.
Help!
 
I have 2 pairs of AR94's. they were falling from the sky here a few years ago. Seemed everywhere i looked a set with bad surrounds could be had for nearly free. here is one set showing different woofers than yours (and all original). I did upgrade the tweeter and XO slightly.

PICT1805-XL.jpg
 
I have 2 pairs of AR94's. they were falling from the sky here a few years ago. Seemed everywhere i looked a set with bad surrounds could be had for nearly free. here is one set showing different woofers than yours (and all original). I did upgrade the tweeter and XO slightly.

What tweeter did you install? How was the xover modded? Did you have to open the hole for the new tweeter backside?
 
Thanks leesonic!

I'm also just working on replacing surrounds on a pair of newly acquired 94ses and am glad you posted your info just a few weeks ago, leesonic! Few questions: 1. One of the tweeters on mine is also pushed in a bit. I'll do the glue gun and toothpic(?) you did but...any further advice on that? I'm afraid of tearing it I guess, 2. Did you go with wet paint on the tweeter or leave it alone? and 3. What did you do for a rim gasket? Thanks for myaudioaddictions surround plug. -Joseph
 
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