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Technics linear table maintenance/repair (easy)

illini

illini

The Past is Alive
I have a SL-7 that has tonearm drive issues.

The tonearm drive belt has decayed and left rubber deposits on the brass pulleys. What's the safest way to remove this? I have tried IPA, wooden toothpicks, and scotchbrite with little results. I don't want to use too much force and damage the axle or apply a dangerous toxic rubber removal product. Also, should the plastic gears get white lithium grease?

Should the dust cover bearing (rests above the spindle/stabilizer) also receive white lithium grease? The grease is currently black.

gearsdrivepulleys.jpg



And for the tonearm drive bearing rod, I've seen these with and without any lube and I would like some recommendations on that if possible. This one has no lube:
armbearing.jpg
 
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You can try scrubbing it with WD-40 on a bit of paper towel, followed by lighter fluid on a bit of paper towel to remove the residue and leave it clean and oil-free. Some folk do OK with isopropyl alcohol 70% or 90% on a bit of paper towel. Do not clean the case or any other finished surface with alcohol.
 
Light (sewing) machine oil on the shaft bushings, just a droplet on the motor bushing under the brass pulley. Bicycle bearing grease or vaseline on the gears. A bit of light machine oil on the slider shaft to thin the congealed grease, don't go crazy and overdo it, keep it simple. Ensure it slides freely without binding afterward.
 
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Just a note:- Garrard recommended petroleum jelly aka Vaseline for lubrication of their changers circa 1960. We all know how their changers gum up. Stay away from Vaseline and use white lithium grease.
 
manual vtf verification?

Does anyone have a method for verifying the vtf on the Technics SL-7? Of course I adjusted the "stylus pressure" setting per the sm, but I would also like to check it with a gauge. I've used a homemade slipmat + the shure gauge on another table, but never on a linear tracker w/ a closed lid.
 
illini said:
Does anyone have a method for verifying the vtf on the Technics SL-7? Of course I adjusted the "stylus pressure" setting per the sm, but I would also like to check it with a gauge. I've used a homemade slipmat + the shure gauge on another table, but never on a linear tracker w/ a closed lid.
Click to expand...

The dynamic balanced VTF is pretty much foolproof, I wouldn't be concerned.
 
I used silicone grease on my SL-5.

I was able to verify the VTF but it was a pain. basically it involves removing the upper lid and running the tonearm over towards the platter. Set up the stylus force gauge and line the stylus up as normal. Shut the lid, and use something to push down on the tonearm lift rod underneath the tonearm so it can sit on the gauge. For whatever its worth, it was dead on 1.25 in the center of the range where it said it should be.
 
gadget73 said:
I used silicone grease on my SL-5.

I was able to verify the VTF but it was a pain. basically it involves removing the upper lid and running the tonearm over towards the platter. Set up the stylus force gauge and line the stylus up as normal. Shut the lid, and use something to push down on the tonearm lift rod underneath the tonearm so it can sit on the gauge. For whatever its worth, it was dead on 1.25 in the center of the range where it said it should be.
Click to expand...

Probably a much better idea. Vaseline and petrolium based oils can be dangerous to most plastics (petrolium based) over time. I would make sure whatever I used said safe for plastics. In the photo, the original lube looks like it may be silicone grease.
 
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Professor Pio1980 said:
The dynamic balanced VTF is pretty much foolproof, I wouldn't be concerned.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I'm amazed at the intelligence of this tonearm; it knows when the record is wide grooved (45rpm 12" single) or just a regular lp. I tried to trick it into thinking it was playing a record during the repair, but I couldn't fool it. I'd love to see the code/logic of this table, the sm doesn't go that deep.
 
I just cleaned up and relubed a SL-QL1 I picked up. The tonearm bearing rod had a slight residue of blackish grease on it that I removed. I would be afraid to lube it with anything that might solidify at all over time, once it's in the armtube how would you get it out?
I defer to Pio on this though, he has broad experience with these.
The effectiveness and reliability of this arm drive system is pretty cool!
 
The table is working perfectly and superbly. Now to find a suitable power adaptor for automobile turntable fun. :D
 
jimreeves said:
The tonearm bearing rod had a slight residue of blackish grease on it that I removed. I would be afraid to lube it with anything that might solidify at all over time, once it's in the armtube how would you get it out?
Click to expand...

Dribble some alcohol onto the rod where it goes into the bearing tube then run the carriage back and forth then wipe of the gunk on the rod with a small piece of alcohol soaked paper towel. Repeat until no more gunk. Then re-lube. I prefer synthetic oil or synthetic light grease. They are plastic safe and will never harden nor gunk up, ever.
Rick
 
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