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Important QRX9001 update, 35 years later

Trnsfmr

Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I discovered something new today about the 9001. And believe me, I thought I had figured out everything there was to figure out about this receiver. I've worked on so many of these things now, that you could tell me a symptom, and I could most likely tell you the exact part or problem and where it was.

Anyway, this is most likely wrong with every single 9001 ever shipped. It has to do with the 2X power mode. The 9001 has a function where you can get all 4 channels to drive just the two front stereo channels, in bridging mode, which gives you 2X as much power or 120 watts per channel instead of just 60. This is achieved by using a channel to drive each side of the speaker, with the negative side driving out of phase with the + side.

Bridging mode normally works really well, and actually gives you the peak power of 4X what a single channel does. It also doubles the slew rate, and spreads the heat load over the heat sinks for all 4 channels. So, in bridge mode you usually get the sensation of much more power, and effortless drive, and great sound, better than the single ch version.

Well, the 9001 bridge mode never sounded as good as I thought it should. But since the 9001 is about quad, and I, and most of my customers, don't usually run it in that mode, I didn't think much about it.

I had a customer who's unit developed a giant pop when switching to 2X. And then a unit on the bench that we had just recapped, did the same thing. I had to use the scope, pour over the schematics and actually think, to figure it out. Turns out that a cap that feeds the relay that switches to 2X mode has the cap marked backwards on the board. This cap only comes into play in 2X mode, but passes audio to the right channel, and is reverse biased by 8v (installed backwards). It's a 50v cap, and I guess most caps could handle the reverse bias. We just got a new bag of 2.2uf @50v caps in, and I guess they couldn't handle the reverse bias.

Well, a reversed biased cap doesn't sound very good, even if it doesn't fail. Now with that cap put in the right way, the 2X mode really shines. For a stereo receiver, it now sounds as good as the 9090, which to my ears always sounded a little better than the 9001 playing just stereo. Of course the 9001 always beat out the 9090 in quad mode, so I never thought much about it (that's a joke). :smoke:

Anyway, if you have a 9001, and you care, it's C30 on the f2636 board. That is the board right behind the front panel with the bal and vol controls on it. You can get this board out without removing the front panel, if you remove the faceplate, and the bottom cover. It's tight, but it will come out.

I'd use a new cap. If you ever listen in 2X mode, it's worth the trouble.

IMPORTANT ADDITION TO THIS THREAD, SEE ADDITIONAL POST BELOW

Well, I'm sorry to say, cause I hate this kind of stuff myself, but there are more variables to this problem. I have six 9001's in the shop right now, plus an 8001, which has the same board. The caps appear mounted correctly in one unit, but most of the time wrong, AND the solder mask, the printing on the board, got corrected, I would imagine, on later boards. I wish I could tell you a serial number, after which you can trust the print on the board, but I can't.

So here is the correct way to deal with this. As you look down from above at the board, f2636, C30 should have its positive side toward the BACK of the receiver, negative to the front. With a flashlight, you can check without removing anything but the wooden cabinet. You have to push some wires aside so you can see, but it's relatively easy to do.

You can also change out the cap, if it's wrong, without removing the board. You just need to remove the bottom plate. It's hard to figure out which two pads are the cap, but you can desolder, pull the cap out, and replace it with some forceps or long needle nose.

Sorry to make this even more complicated, and I hope no one got fooled by the changes. This is the right way to deal with it.

:D
 
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Good information. I have read discussions over time about not using the 2x mode because it can cause problems. I haven't seen any reference to it in a long time and I don't remember the details. Can you shed any light on that?

- Pete
 
A previous guy, who used to work on these, liked to disable the 2X power feature, claiming it was dangerous, because if anyone hooked up low impedance (4 ohm) speakers up to the amp, it might blow the outputs. I spose this was true, but not likely to happen after someone spends a small fortune restoring one of these things.

Various 9001s I've seen in the past would pop to one degree or another when switched into 2X mode, uncharacteristic for this receiver, which generally does everything without any untoward noises. I guess that some had a problem with this cap being in various states of failure.

Once it is replaced and with proper polarity, the switch to 2X seems noiseless and gives the feeling of lots of power available. Indeed the peak power, calculated just from the total voltage swing of almost 90v, is around 250 watts per channel.

Perhaps if this cap had not been misplaced from the factory, the 9001 would have been able to compete better with some of the high powered receivers of the day. Generally the 2x mode is a disappointment. But after this fix, it is pretty potent and sounds great, to boot.
 
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That's amazing !

Maybe some people might have replaced the cap with a film cap (Wima?) and then put the 2X improvement down to the re-cap - not realising they had resolved a 35 year old mistake.
 
That's a useful piece of information.

So the left channel was OK, and just the right side would suffer in bridged mode...
 
I've had two customers threaten to send me a QSD-1 to recap and work on, but they actually never sent them. The QSD-1 is a pretty rare item. I've never seen one in the flesh, and so, do not know much about them. Wish I had one.

Sorry I can't help.
 
That's a useful piece of information.

So the left channel was OK, and just the right side would suffer in bridged mode...

Yep, just the right channel. I couldn't identify that when listening. To me, it just didn't sound very impressive in 2X power mode.
 
That's a real intresting discovery.

I also wondered how they developed 2x mode. I figured they put the rear two channels (four output transistors) in parallel with the front four outputs. Do to that, setting the offsets to zero for each output pair would have been important, which is why I also figured folks didn't talk much about 2x mode.

With the front's getting (for instance) the upper half of the waveform and the rears getting the lower half, how to they control and set the idle current in the bridged configuration so that their isn't any objectionable switchover noise between the front pair and the rear pair ?

Not sure I followed your 4x peak power per channel or increased slew rate discovery.

Sansiu spec's it at 65 wpc in 4 channel mode into 4 ohms and 140 wpc in 2x mode into 8 ohms, but not 240 wpc into 4 ohms.

From what I take it then there are several things that are reconfigured in 2x mode. For a single channel (LF for instance), the two output transistors for the LF go into parallel and become the 0-plus swing of the waveform, the LR outputs are put in parallel as well to match, and are configured to amplify the 0-mius swing of the waveform for that channel.

Thanks for the news; have a text file with all your other quad posts on this board, one day will MOD one of our 4 7001s per the quad mod description you posted. Recapping one of those a couple of years ago was an experience.
 
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Hi,
Bridging mode works like this.......

Maybe we should talk about a normal amp first. Normally an amp feeds the + side of a speaker and the other side is hooked to ground. So all the signal goes to one terminal and the other terminal is grounded.

In bridging configuration, the plus side of the speaker is driven by an amp channel, just like before, but, the other side of the speaker is driven by another amp channel, only it is out of phase with the first one. So, as the signal is going positive on the + side, the out of phase amp would be driving the other side of the speaker negative.

So, if you had an amplier capable of a 50 v. swing from peak to peak, you now have a 100v swing from peak to peak. Since power is equal to the square of the voltage, and we have doubled the voltage. . . . then the power is now 4X as much...... except the amplifier will not flow that much current, so in reality it is only capable of 2X as much power. BUT..... and this is a big BUT..... music is dynamic in nature. The amplifier will be capable of doing the 4X power thing for some fraction of a second, or until the power supply starts to collapse. In practice this works out to giving you high powered peaks.

That's why I said the bridging configuration on the Sansui would give you the equivalent of the "peak power" of a 250 watt amp. In practice you can actually hear this. To drive the amp that hard is pushing it to its limits, but it does work. My experience with the 9001 is that it sounds effortless, which would be because of the high peak power capability.

Sinice the two amps are always moving in opposite directions to each other, the slew rate becomes the addition of the slew rate of the two amp channels used for the bridge, or 2X the slew rate.

Running in bridging mode, in practice, makes for definitely warmer heat sinks than before. The current is being doubled. Each half of the bridging amplifier is seeing the equivalent of a 4 ohm speaker, even though the speaker is actually 8 ohms. That is why you have to be careful with the impedance of a speaker driven in bridging mode, and only use 8 ohm speakers. Some big PA amps, like Kev talks about all the time are capable of driving even 4 ohm speakers in bridging mode, giving you thousands of watts of power, and just incredible peak power capability, which is exactly what you need for PA work.

Hey Kev, we just finished a G9000. A lot of power. But I still think the 999 or the 9500 sound better :o) Actually the 9000 sounds really good, I just don't care too much for the tone controls. (it's the old blame it on the EQ complaint!!)

Hope I made this whole bridging thing more clear.

:D
 
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Hi,

Hey Kev, we just finished a G9000. A lot of power. But I still think the 999 or the 9500 sound better :o) Actually the 9000 sounds really good, I just don't care too much for the tone controls. (it's the old blame it on the EQ complaint!!)

:D

Hi Jim, yeah, lots power the 9000, interesting to note, and this was using measurement equipment, the Tone circuit introduces a 180˚ Phase shift.
Then the actual filters cause a fair bit of phase shift too when boosting or cutting....
They are a really mild Hi and Lo shelving filter......and then the mid is a very wide Q bell filter.....I never use the tone controls on my 9000 or the 22000....because they are not something that I think works that well....
The G22000 is one hell of a step up from a G9000 I might add too....
I have a BSS Varicurve and I also have L'acoustic 15" subs (with active BSS FDS360 x-over) I drive these off either a Crown Macrotech or QSC Powerlite 4.0 whichever I have on hand, mostly the QSC at the moment...

So the system sounds really Fat!!

I also think with the G's, you have to have the right speakers.....

Nice explanation on the Bridging, I was hoping you would chime in with a reply like that.....
The Sansui AU-D11 is a bridged amplifier, those things Kick Ass.......as is the Crown Macrotech 5002VZ, which REALLY kicks Ass....
 
Hi,
Bridging mode works like this.......

Maybe we should talk about a normal amp first. Normally an amp feeds the + side of a speaker and the other side is hooked to ground. So all the signal goes to one terminal and the other terminal is grounded.

In bridging configuration, the plus side of the speaker is driven by an amp channel, just like before, but, the other side of the speaker is driven by another amp channel, only it is out of phase with the first one. So, as the signal is going positive on the + side, the out of phase amp would be driving the other side of the speaker negative.

So, if you had an amplier capable of a 50 v. swing from peak to peak, you now have a 100v swing from peak to peak. Since power is equal to the square of the voltage, and we have doubled the voltage. . . . then the power is now 4X as much...... except the amplifier will not flow that much current, so in reality it is only capable of 2X as much power. BUT..... and this is a big BUT..... music is dynamic in nature. The amplifier will be capable of doing the 4X power thing for some fraction of a second, or until the power supply starts to collapse. In practice this works out to giving you high powered peaks.

That's why I said the bridging configuration on the Sansui would give you the equivalent of the "peak power" of a 250 watt amp. In practice you can actually hear this. To drive the amp that hard is pushing it to its limits, but it does work. My experience with the 9001 is that it sounds effortless, which would be because of the high peak power capability.

Sinice the two amps are always moving in opposite directions to each other, the slew rate becomes the addition of the slew rate of the two amp channels used for the bridge, or 2X the slew rate.

Running in bridging mode, in practice, makes for definitely warmer heat sinks than before. The current is being doubled. Each half of the bridging amplifier is seeing the equivalent of a 4 ohm speaker, even though the speaker is actually 8 ohms. That is why you have to be careful with the impedance of a speaker driven in bridging mode, and only use 8 ohm speakers. Some big PA amps, like Kev talks about all the time are capable of driving even 4 ohm speakers in bridging mode, giving you thousands of watts of power, and just incredible peak power capability, which is exactly what you need for PA work.

Hope I made this whole bridging thing more clear.

:D

Yes, thanks for that. I did some additional research on it and looked at some configurations, mostly in the car stereo venue, since they are working with 12 v systems and getting 22 volts across the speaker terminals was the goal in those systems. I do think that a 9090dB or G8000 would have the same peak power reserve as the QRX9001 in two channel mode.
 
Bridging amps aren't used much in home stereo. No need, really. But when you want some real high power, that's how you get it. In the world of big PA and big concerts it's the norm, at least for subwoofers and low ends.
 
Nice write up!! Actually bridged configuration is used more than many people know, widely used in newer consumer stuff. The Sui - balanced X is essentially this. You are correct in explaining the configuration, i.e. two channels of the amp driving one speaker. However the slew rate of the amp is determined by the single channel performance. The amp channels will not slew faster just because they are bridged.
 
Hi,
Correct, the individual channels do not slew at any different rate. However, the slew rate of the entire system, now composed of two amplifiers is doubled. For example if you set a 10v swing as goal, the bridged amp will get there twice as fast, as each individual amp only has to swing 5v to get to the total signal at the speaker swinging 10v. So, it will happen twice as fast.
 
Not measuing the slew rate to verify, I still agree with you on the improvement potential.

The way I think about it, with the bridged amp running in opposite phase to the reference amp, if the reference amp slews at 10v/usec towards zero from a positive peak, and the bridged one is doing the same from the opposite polarity, heading to zero from a negative peak, the net slew rate, from the load's perspective, is 20v/usec.

Look at section 4.1 from this link-

http://www.national.com/AU/design/courses/141/141_audio_amplifier_configurations.pdf
 
Hey, great link. My fav for studying audio amplifiers is the book, "Self On Audio" by Doug Self. He is pretty much considered the best engineer of the modern age. After studying the book for two years, I think I got about half of it. LOL That book was inspiration for the "Diff Mod" which we do to early Sansui amps.

http://www.qrxrestore.com/
 
IMPORTANT, READ THIS POST


Well, I'm sorry to say, cause I hate this kind of stuff myself, but there are more variables to this problem. I have six 9001's in the shop right now, plus an 8001, which has the same board. The caps appear mounted correctly in one unit, but most of the time wrong, AND the solder mask, the printing on the board, got corrected, I would imagine, on later boards. I wish I could tell you a serial number, after which you can trust the print on the board, but I can't.

So here is the correct way to deal with this. As you look down from above at the board, f2636, C30 should have its positive side toward the BACK of the receiver, negative to the front. With a flashlight, you can check without removing anything but the wooden cabinet. You have to push some wires aside so you can see, but it's relatively easy to do.

You can also change out the cap, if it's wrong, without removing the board. You just need to remove the bottom plate. It's hard to figure out which two pads are the cap, but you can desolder, pull the cap out, and replace it with some forceps or long needle nose.

Sorry to make this even more complicated, and I hope no one got fooled by the changes. This is the right way to deal with it.
 
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