• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Complete rebuild of a Thorens TD-124 (stock, no modifications)

Ohighway

Ohighway

Wannabe Minimalist
Edit 3-19-12. I had the mods change the title of this thread.... which was formerly called "Accidental Involvement / TD-124. It's Ehoove's fault...."

So last Monday Ehoove is over here to lube up my TD-160. After we're finished he mentions he's never seen a TD-124 in person. I grab the one I bought a year ago off the shelf and we start looking it over.

TD-124, series 1 with SME S2 improved arm and Shure V-15 type II cartridge.Grubby and grimy as hell, stylus missing from the Shure. Traveler weight missing from the SME. :sigh: Speed selector stuck in 16 rpm position and plugging it in netted a barely moving platter. We looked, talked, and he left.

Later that evening curiosity got the best of me. I knew it was a BAD idea to try and force the speed selector at the selector lever itself. So I tipped it up and realized that a mechanism was probably just gummed up tight on the shaft. Working it back and forth from underneath, adding a little light oil to seep in finally loosened it up. I could change speeds but... still moving slow. Belt was toast.

Later in the week I received a belt in the mail, cleaned up the pulleys, lubed the speed change mechanism and popped the belt on. OK, good so far but now I notice the idler wheel is cracked. No surprise but...:sigh:

After getting a bit more inspiration by viewing Fast Eddie's thread with pictures I decide that this thing needs a general disassembly, cleaning, rebuild. I will say the platter shaft and bushings are in GREAT shape.

Today I decide to dig deeper. Removed the motor, and disassembled it. The bad news? Broke a nice screwdriver I had getting the motor pulley off. The good news? Motor shaft is flawless and bushings are in great shape.

Soooo..... Soaking the bushings and felts, etc. in an attempt to clean them up. I'm sure the true believers will give me crap but I'm going to re-use the original bushings, etc. A new or rebuilt idler is a must though....

And it's all Ehoove's fault...:D I wouldn't be doing this yet if it wasn't for him wanting to see it. It's fun to work on a quality, precision device !

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 100_2975.jpg
    100_2975.jpg
    92.2 KB · Views: 795
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Sitting on a 124? Letting it collect dust?

Goodness!!!!

Good luck in the resto- I bet it will pay off in spades!
 
Ohighway said:
The bad news? Broke a nice screwdriver I had getting the motor pulley off.


And it's all Ehoove's fault...
Click to expand...

Well they still make screwdrivers so that 'issue' should resolve itself if truly needed.

Jim...he has been know to get folks busy on major projects and he surely owes a pay it forward after I dropped off my TD-160S/Magnepan/Dynavector to tune-up and extended stay. He has since gone overboard on Thorens/Separate Tonearms/Different Cartridges.

I promise, it was only a nudge, leaving that TT there for the summer, just like you received. Sure is fun isn't it?
 
I'm gonna' skip a lot of steps as Fast Eddie posted tons of pix in his thread. Anyway, here's the motor after it was removed.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 100_3089.jpg
    100_3089.jpg
    105.4 KB · Views: 784
Motor pulley removed.

100_3092.jpg

Bottom plate off and armature out.

100_3094.jpg


Rivets drilled out in bottom plate, bushing and felt shown from inside bottom plate

100_3095.jpg

Rivets out of bottom plate, bottom thrust cover and felt shown.

100_3096.jpg

Tiny 2mm ball from bottom of motor shaft and nylon thrust plate. I taped these to a piece of paper immediately after removing so they don't get lost!

100_3097.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have always adored the compactness of the 124. Not that I've ever seen one though!


Ben aka MacKat
 
what are friends for? :thmbsp:
I don't know what the idler wheel looks like but I may be able to make one for you. It would give me an excuse to swap the cooler for the cd's I have here for you.
 
grillebilly said:
what are friends for? :thmbsp:
I don't know what the idler wheel looks like but I may be able to make one for you. It would give me an excuse to swap the cooler for the cd's I have here for you.
Click to expand...

It's a metal and rubber idler wheel ... like this one....

EDIT: This is a pic off the web, not my idler.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • DSC_5116.jpg
    DSC_5116.jpg
    81.3 KB · Views: 745
Last edited:
You might be able to get by with a little rubber rejuvenator in the short run. That one is bone dry but it doesn't look like it has any flat spots.
 
Well this monster is completely pulled apart now. Or.... as pulled apart as it's gonna' get. there's one final mechanism that I can't get off the chassis without resorting to drastic measures. It's the pivoting bracket that holds the idler wheel and disengages, raises/lowers, re-engages the wheel. There's a small collar with two set screws that is impossible to get off. For some odd reason Thorens used a slotted screw instead of the standard allen screw and both broke off to one side of the slot. So, nothing more to grab on to. I could drill it out, etc but.....NO, not gonna' do it. That particular mechanism moves very freely, and I can just lube it a bit and be confident it will work for a long long time. Everything else has been removed. These weird set screws seem the ony thing that I think Thorens did wrong with these, which honestly is a very minor complaint. (One of them is also the reason I broke my nice Xcelite screwdriver I mentioned earlier)

Motor bushings and felts continue to soak in Brakekleen. (sp?) The felts are pretty clean at this point but the bushings continue to ooze old lubricant.

I ordered some motor mount grommets from Voice of Music. After carefully measuring mine, then doing a bit of comparison, I think I'll take the chance that the "Dollar each" VM grommets will likely work just fine. Actually there were two different types I could use and at that price I ordered both so I could compare.

MAJOR "F-UP" on my part. I somehow managed to break the steel band on the speed change mechanism. Long story but I do know what I did wrong and I should've known better/ been more observant. Fixable? We'll see. If not I'm not sure what next. I don't see any for sale on ebay.

Regardless this has so far been a joy to work on and I've learned a ton over the past few days. Initially it looked a tad intimidating. Now? Not at all.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 100_3109.jpg
    100_3109.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 748
Last edited:
spartanmanor said:
You might be able to get by with a little rubber rejuvenator in the short run. That one is bone dry but it doesn't look like it has any flat spots.
Click to expand...

That's a pic off the web, not mine. Mine looks ok from the top, but underneath you can see all the cracks. One of them reaches the perimeter of the wheel. Not only that , it's hard as a rock.

You have two TD124 tables. Have you bought new idlers or had yours rebuilt?
 
Ohighway said:
That's a pic off the web, not mine. Mine looks ok from the top, but underneath you can see all the cracks. One of them reaches the perimeter of the wheel. Not only that , it's hard as a rock.

You have two TD124 tables. Have you bought new idlers or had yours rebuilt?
Click to expand...


I am using the originals. Honestly they are both in great shape. That being said I am sure if I dumped some serious cash on a major overhaul I am sure I could here some improvement. I have been thinking of getting one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raw-Thorens...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4cfc28de9e on ebay to replace my hollow plinth.
 
ruffian said:
I can testify that it is a lot of fun tearing one of those motors apart, once you get over taking a drill to it.

Did you bake the bearings yet? http://homepage2.nifty.com/pantone/thorens/overhaul_1.htm
Click to expand...

Funny you posted that link as it's the exact link I was reading last night that gave me the information I needed to be confident enough to forge ahead.

Now saying that I've been looking up information on baking out oilite bushings and at least one place I noticed said it's a bad idea. So not sure how I'll proceed. I had no problem taking a drill to it. Rivets are rivets...no biggie. Now finding the nuts/bolts/washers I need to replace them...here at home. We'll see. Might require a trip to the hardware store.
 
spartanmanor said:
I am using the originals. Honestly they are both in great shape. That being said I am sure if I dumped some serious cash on a major overhaul I am sure I could here some improvement. I have been thinking of getting one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raw-Thorens...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4cfc28de9e on ebay to replace my hollow plinth.
Click to expand...

That guy has the goods eh? I saw that and was considering it. Maybe he'll give us a package deal on two (oh wait, you need two, so maybe a package deal on three!) I see he has several others in different finishes, etc. And armboards. And high $$$ gel bushings.
 
Ohighway said:
Funny you posted that link as it's the exact link I was reading last night that gave me the information I needed to be confident enough to forge ahead.

Now saying that I've been looking up information on baking out oilite bushings and at least one place I noticed said it's a bad idea. So not sure how I'll proceed. I had no problem taking a drill to it. Rivets are rivets...no biggie. Now finding the nuts/bolts/washers I need to replace them...here at home. We'll see. Might require a trip to the hardware store.
Click to expand...

Took me three hardware stores to find one that had 'mighty small metric bolts'. Then the clerk pulled out one of those yellow drawers just a little to far and proceeded to dump its contents on the floor. :D Fortunately the one he dumped was the wrong one. :D:D
 
ruffian said:
Took me three hardware stores to find one that had 'mighty small metric bolts'. Then the clerk pulled out one of those yellow drawers just a little to far and proceeded to dump its contents on the floor. :D Fortunately the one he dumped was the wrong one. :D:D
Click to expand...

Well, nothing says they have to be metric.....:thmbsp:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom