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KLH 5 Revival. Restoring my oldest friends.

Kahoona

Super Member
Hi
I am finally getting around to restoring the first pair of audio gear that I bought new and the only one I have kept over the years. I hope that this is not a bore or annoyance but I figured that I could use feedback along the way and those who do it next might find useful information. Anybody who wants to get a closer look at anything just ask. The object here is to restore and probably not improve but certainly not detract in any way. In their early days I blew 2 sets of tweeters with a Dynakit 120. That was a great amp for the money but it exceeded the stated 45w max of the 5's. I also drove it to clipping constantly which probably did the damage. Later I blew 2 sets with a Mitsubishi DA10-DC one of the best amps I ever owned but too much for the 5's. I installed a dome tweeter which sounded pretty good at the time and has worked for me since. I have picked up some original tweeters from a fellow AKer and I plan to add some overload protection. I want to re-cap the crossover even though I enjoy the sound now. they are over 40 years old so what the heck. The surrounds have never been touched and are still pretty flexible but they leak air and I can see through them. I want to research doping materials to find something that will not add any stiffness but will seal without damaging. No I do not know how many angels can dance on the head of a pin but I hear that they have narrowed that down to where the enthusiasm of the dancers is the only variable so I can probably get the dope thing straight. The cabinets have only minor scratches but there is one place on top where someone (not me) placed a decorative piece of cloth and a plant which of course leaked and the wood is rough. That has to be sanded. I have to see if I can match the color or weather I have to refinish it all. I plan to commit sacrilege ans pot in some new connectors.
 

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Man, I sure do hate I let my set go. Have done up a set and I think you'll like the results. My cabinets were really trashed - but I got a set for $10 at a yardsale. They will take lots of power, too, with the right amplification. I drove my pair with a Hafler P500 @ 250wpc. No problems except my ears were left ringing from the volume.

As for swapping out the terminals, you'll need something that can accommodate the circuit board mating, which may rule out some of the more standard replacement 5-way binding posts. That is, the terminals are an integrated part of the circuit board/crossovers and you'll need to have the mechanical parts of any replacement posts in place to fit.

As an alternative, I found these adapter lugs you can get from your local big-box hardware store. The tongues can be bent to accommodate the wires if needed, too. Insert your speaker wires into the pressure-fit end, clamp down on them well (deoxit them if you want first) then attach to the speaker terminals. Use a star washer or 2 to ensure tight fit. That's all there is to it.

Also, pay attention to the small, foam gaskets you'll find when you take apart the crossover/panel assembly. They need to go back on to make the cabinet air-tight. This is the most important thing for proper bass response.

Good luck with the restoration and keep us posted on your progress!

Cheers,

David
 
You are probably right about the terminals. Those adapters look solid. Worse comes to worse I can make a custom adapter and leave the original terminals intact. Saved the gaskets. I had planned to replace all of them but these are in good shape after 40 years! That is a plus. I ordered the capacitors and resistors. I am going all Solen on the caps. Might be tricky to fit but should give the best sound and last a long time. It is interesting how nicely the crossovers are laid out on these. They depend on electrolytic though which have to have deteriorated by now. The resistors look fine but what the heck! Piece of cake! Studying the doping for the woofs. Looks like Butyl is the preferred. Frankly it scares me because I wonder if it could damage the fabric (and besides it is white and ugly. I have a couple of things to try on an old T shirt. Eileen's is too stiff even though it is water based and safer. I want to experiment with liquid vinyl thinned with ?. I'll see how it comes out.
 
Small World Sometimes

Just finished a set of your 5's brothers last weekend - S/Ns AS0515476 and AS051547. Doubt they were manufactured very far apart. These are stamped "Guy Hobbs, Inc. - Red Lion, PA" on the inside. I used Erse Pulse-X caps on the crossover rebuilds. Tried some new "beige" grill cloth but didn't like it so I went back to the original cloth (might be able to tell the difference in the pics). Sanded the cabinets down and used Howard's Restore-A-Finish, Watco Danish Oil and Howard's Feed'n'Wax - came out a little darker than I was shooting for but not too bad (can certainly live with it). Don't forget to re-seal the wire paths for the mid-ranges if you gut them and re-seal the drivers. Right now they're sharing time with some of their cousins (12's) in the "reading" room... Enjoy!

Don
 

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Your crossover board looks completely different than mine. Mine uses point to point wiring with terminal strips on a wood base.


Eileens now makes a "Flexible-Stretchable" fabric glue. That might be be what you are looking for if watered down.
 
Right now they're sharing time with some of their cousins (12's) in the "reading" room... Enjoy!

Don

I have a pair of Sevens that were recently given to me that look a lot like the 12s. Unfortunately the fabric covering the speakers on the Sevens cannot be removed without cutting it off.
 
Big K

Glad to see some photos of the project. You already know they are well worth the effort. Good luck going forward!!
 
Your crossover board looks completely different than mine. Mine uses point to point wiring with terminal strips on a wood base.QUOTE]

To the best of my knowledge the point to point was the early version and they switched to the PCBs towards the end of the production run. Don't know the exact timeframe though... I believe there were 3 different versions of the 5's crossover. Perhaps a KLH expert can weigh in and confirm or set the record straight. :scratch2:
 
Just finished a set of your 5's brothers last weekend - S/Ns AS0515476 and AS051547. Doubt they were manufactured very far apart. These are stamped "Guy Hobbs, Inc. - Red Lion, PA" on the inside. I used Erse Pulse-X caps on the crossover rebuilds. Tried some new "beige" grill cloth but didn't like it so I went back to the original cloth (might be able to tell the difference in the pics). Sanded the cabinets down and used Howard's Restore-A-Finish, Watco Danish Oil and Howard's Feed'n'Wax - came out a little darker than I was shooting for but not too bad (can certainly live with it). Don't forget to re-seal the wire paths for the mid-ranges if you gut them and re-seal the drivers. Right now they're sharing time with some of their cousins (12's) in the "reading" room... Enjoy!

Don

Don

Those look awesome!
Great job restoring the cabinets!!
 
Interesting stuff here! Pioneer Vir; What did you seal your woofer suspension with? Mine has rubber plugs like you find in test tubes sealing the wires to the mids. That is pretty much the way I figure I'll have to shoehorn the caps in. Funny thing Jlovda; I was surprised to see this board when I opened mine up. I had not been inside since I blew the last tweeter around '80 and I thought I saw a mass of free wired stuff on a piece of ply. I'm thinking it may have just been, you know, the eighties or something but it is possible that I will get a surprise when I open the other one. Hope the caps are the same. I got them at the same time from one of the early mail order places.
 
Just finished a set of your 5's brothers last weekend - S/Ns AS0515476 and AS051547. Doubt they were manufactured very far apart. These are stamped "Guy Hobbs, Inc. - Red Lion, PA" on the inside. I used Erse Pulse-X caps on the crossover rebuilds. Tried some new "beige" grill cloth but didn't like it so I went back to the original cloth (might be able to tell the difference in the pics). Sanded the cabinets down and used Howard's Restore-A-Finish, Watco Danish Oil and Howard's Feed'n'Wax - came out a little darker than I was shooting for but not too bad (can certainly live with it). Don't forget to re-seal the wire paths for the mid-ranges if you gut them and re-seal the drivers. Right now they're sharing time with some of their cousins (12's) in the "reading" room... Enjoy!

Don

Hi
It has been a while. Hope you wee this. I used to ride my bicycle through Red Lion PA! My grills look more like the first pictures (with the other speakers) than the second (by themselves) Could mine really have been light colored? Lots of different kinds of smoke (incense included) over the years could have done that. Mine have a layer of black beneath the top layer too. They are not as nice as I thought and I may recover them. Can you tell me where you got the original fabric? I like how you used the Howard's rather than painted on Varnish. I plan to go that way.
 
Hi
I finally got some time set aside to restore my KLH 5's. Hope someone finds information in here that helps them with theirs. At the same time I am hoping to be able to get advice from the other AKers who might want to watch the process. This is one of the great things about being in AK. Being able to draw on the knowledge of many experienced people while passing along what I know to the next person, all in real time.
Goals:
To restore my 70's KLH 5's to the sound and appearance they had when they were new and possibly sweeten the sound a bit more using quality crossover components while staying as close as possible to the original. This includes replacing the tweeters with original and installing polyswitches for protection.
Good part;
They are in very good condition as far as the speakers and electronics are concerned and they sound great even now. The cabs are sturdy and should be like new when done.
Bad: Not much. The cabs are not as perfect as I thought. They have some plywood showing at a number of places on the rear edges and corners that will need to be addressed. i There are some rough spots on the tops that I hoped to be able to fix with restore a finish but with the other damage I wonder if this will be another "down to bare wood" job.
I have gotten the Walnut Restore a Finish, sandpaper and Feed and Wax. I have all of the Capacitors. All are Solen Polypro rather than electrolytic. I also got all new resistors. It would be a shame to do all of this and then not get it perfect. I also got a shiny pair of used KLH 5 tweeters (from Wolverine at AK.) The fun here is as much in the journey as in the results.
I dismantled them, removing the old dome replacement tweeters from the 80's I removed the woofers and the dreaded Fiberglass and unscrewed the crossovers. Then I vacuumed the boxes and all of the parts and wiped everything with a damp cloth to clean up the fiberglass bits. I HATE FIBERGLASS!!Here are pics.
I have some questions: I understand that the tweeters are 8 ohms and the speakers are rated for 75 watts. I do not know what the tweeters themselves are rated at in order to pick a polyswitch to keep them safe. Anybody know?
Can anyone suggest where to get identical fabric for the grills?
 

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This last weekend I was given a set of Fives with either blown tweeters of x-overs needing a rebuild. Cabs are in deent conditiob with the usual water stains on the top. Also the woofers are a bit lose, so doping is in the cards. A long term project for when I am better as well as it will give me an incentive to get some oil caps for my Wharfedales.

When I get these going. it will be bye-bye to a batch of speakers as I know how these should sound and they are what I like in a speaker. I'll probably rebuildmy JansZens and pull the jumper to use the 4-panel e'stat arrays and flip them and stack them. The JansZen arrays were very popular addons back them on many NE designed speakers.
 
This last weekend I was given a set of Fives with either blown tweeters of x-overs needing a rebuild. Cabs are in deent conditiob with the usual water stains on the top. Also the woofers are a bit lose, so doping is in the cards. A long term project for when I am better as well as it will give me an incentive to get some oil caps for my Wharfedales.

When I get these going. it will be bye-bye to a batch of speakers as I know how these should sound and they are what I like in a speaker. I'll probably rebuildmy JansZens and pull the jumper to use the 4-panel e'stat arrays and flip them and stack them. The JansZen arrays were very popular addons back them on many NE designed speakers.

I'd suspect the X-over first. It is a common issue with these that the x-over issue disables the tweeters. Once mine were re-capped the tweeters came back to life. Listening to them now......... :music:
 
I was lucky in that my cousin found a set of original Model 5 grills (no speakers or badges) at a local garage sale where he lives (Marietta, Ohio). He knows I'll pretty much take anything KLH related so he grabbed them and sent them to me - these are the grills on the Model 5 pictures I posted a while back. The grills that I got on the speakers were pretty much in the same condition that your's are. The closest to original grill cloth that I have personally been able to find is from Carl's Loudspeakers. An example of it is on the attached NLA pic that I did a year or so ago. I finished up a set of Model 12s a couple of months ago and tried several different types and colors of cloth for the grills but I wasn't happy with them or what I have on there now. For me, Carl's is the nearest match. Others may have other information and sources... They definately benefit from a good re-cap. I've been switching back and forth between the Model 5s and 12s lately with the tube equipment - not the most efficent speakers but I don't use much volume with them. Good luck with them - well worth the effort!

Don
 
If those Radio Shack dome tweeters that you had in there work, hang on to them. Those were particularly nice sounding units.

good luck!
 
If those Radio Shack dome tweeters that you had in there work, hang on to them. Those were particularly nice sounding units.

good luck!

Yes they were! I was amazed when I put them in. I actually liked them better than the originals at the time. They screwed right in with no changes to the crossover and they took 100w/chan easily. Back then Radio Shack was the Go To place. A lot of their stuff was as good as most big name brands. I'm going to take your advice and hang on to them. It will be interesting to see how I like the originals now that I am used to the domes.
 
Hi
One item of interest I found while doing the crossover is this Yellow Creeping Crud inside the tweeter controls. As far as I know I never treated these with anything so something must have been there originally that corroded. Also of interest is the seals that KLH put over the shafts on the controls. They really meant to seal those cabinets well! Take a look at the PCB's. I never saw so much silver on a board. The boards themselves are thick and tough too as if they were Bakelite or something. I say this partly because Bakelite is actually yellow like amber. The silver sticks to the board like crazy too. No problem with it peeling up when it gets hot. KLH used a ton of solder on those joints too.Cleaning one joint could use six inches of Solder Braid and still leave plenty to remake the connections. All in all these were made like a brick shithouse! Really a treat to work on never any problems with these.I wish they were all like that. Are all the 5's this way?
Does anybody have any idea what the max wattage is on the tweeters? I need to figure out a Polyswitch size. Otherwise I will just go down one size from the ones I put in the Klipshes I rebuilt recently and hope.
 

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