RobertR
New Member
I would like to share with you, my reasons for replacing the original "Royal 8V/200ma" dial lamps with the same ratings.
About 25 years ago, I purchased a Marantz 2235 (A Model-1 meter) from a friend who purchased it new.
On the chassis, just behind the front panel, it is date stamped "1975 6 5".
I waited until all 5 of the dial lamps burned out, over a period of about 5 years.
My Findings:
The plastic on the Meter Reflector (White) was in new condition, with no discoloration from overheating.
The Reflector for the Dial however, was slightly distorted and the plastic had turned Brown on the upper edge, (being worse above the middle lamp), which would be just above the lamps.
My conclusion, is that Marantz did not specify a material that was adequate enough to sustain the heat that is generated from the 5 dial lamps. From many posts that I have read, some of the 2200 and 2300 series had this same problem, until they went to either LED's or Fluorescent.
Maybe better ventilation would have helped.
Even though the dial appears to be slightly dim, I prefer the warm blue, rather than a blaring-washed out display.
Meter Lighting:
Because of the white face on the meter(s) (Possibly faded), the color tone appears to be half blue on my 2235, compared to the AM/FM dial.
Instead of trying to find a blue colored lamp @ 200ma, with the lamp removed, use a blue permanent marker and color the lamp.
The more the coats, the darker the blue becomes, however, the tradeoff is less light.
All of the other lamps, even after 36 years, are still working, including the dial pointer.
The Stereo Indicator lamp was replaced by a Red Low-MCD LED, rated at 12V @ 12mA. LedTech PART NO. UT1811-81-UEC1-12V
Ref. From Model 2235 Service Manual:
Item Name Part#
0902 Reflector 287127401
1002 Holder 287127101
A final note: All Capacitors and Components are original.
Sincerely,
RobertR
My Addendum To My Post: Dial Lamp Issue – Reason To Use LED’s
Since writing this, I opened up my Marantz 2215B to replace the Dial Lamps for the first time since I owned it.
The Dial Reflector Assembly housing is so badly melted, that it is distorted, thereby preventing the Dial Lamp PC card (Lamp Holder Assembly) from being removed.
In order to extract the Dial Lamp PC card, I had to very carefully heat up the top of the Reflector Assembly housing with a hair dryer that had a styling nozzle on it, so that the heat is contained to one area. Use 2 small screwdrivers (1 at each end) as a prying tool, gently, while applying heat evenly across the housing.
Hint: to prevent too much heat from traveling to the Dial Panel, prop up the rear of the receiver with a 6-8” high small box, along with foam rubber or something soft under the front panel, in order to protect the knobs/controls.
Use low heat settings on the dryer only.
Afterward, I used a small Dremmel disc, to open up the lamp slots on the Reflector Assembly housing, so that the Lamp Clips will once again clear the housing.
Causation & Findings:
Someone had previously installed 8V @ 300mA lamps.
If stock 8V @ 200mA lamps can cause melting, let this be a lesson to the wise.
My Recommended Solution:
Replace all Fuse Lamps with the “SMD LED Festoon” Part Number: F30-WHP-12V Automotive lamp, possibly available at your local Automotive supplier or at www.superbrightleds.com .
They only draw 20mA each, and were recommended to me by a Marantz Poster on another website. Apparently, they work fine at the 8V AC supply from the Marantz power transformer. To better balance the load on the transformer, I recommend that you alternate the polarities of the new lamps, when installing them.
I am very disappointed that Marantz didn't specify to their part vendor to use a better grade of plastic. It is an Injection Molded part.
After these 2 meltdown experiences with my 2235 and my 2215B, I definitely recommend a full LED retrofit.
About 25 years ago, I purchased a Marantz 2235 (A Model-1 meter) from a friend who purchased it new.
On the chassis, just behind the front panel, it is date stamped "1975 6 5".
I waited until all 5 of the dial lamps burned out, over a period of about 5 years.
My Findings:
The plastic on the Meter Reflector (White) was in new condition, with no discoloration from overheating.
The Reflector for the Dial however, was slightly distorted and the plastic had turned Brown on the upper edge, (being worse above the middle lamp), which would be just above the lamps.
My conclusion, is that Marantz did not specify a material that was adequate enough to sustain the heat that is generated from the 5 dial lamps. From many posts that I have read, some of the 2200 and 2300 series had this same problem, until they went to either LED's or Fluorescent.
Maybe better ventilation would have helped.
Even though the dial appears to be slightly dim, I prefer the warm blue, rather than a blaring-washed out display.
Meter Lighting:
Because of the white face on the meter(s) (Possibly faded), the color tone appears to be half blue on my 2235, compared to the AM/FM dial.
Instead of trying to find a blue colored lamp @ 200ma, with the lamp removed, use a blue permanent marker and color the lamp.
The more the coats, the darker the blue becomes, however, the tradeoff is less light.
All of the other lamps, even after 36 years, are still working, including the dial pointer.
The Stereo Indicator lamp was replaced by a Red Low-MCD LED, rated at 12V @ 12mA. LedTech PART NO. UT1811-81-UEC1-12V
Ref. From Model 2235 Service Manual:
Item Name Part#
0902 Reflector 287127401
1002 Holder 287127101
A final note: All Capacitors and Components are original.
Sincerely,
RobertR
My Addendum To My Post: Dial Lamp Issue – Reason To Use LED’s
Since writing this, I opened up my Marantz 2215B to replace the Dial Lamps for the first time since I owned it.
The Dial Reflector Assembly housing is so badly melted, that it is distorted, thereby preventing the Dial Lamp PC card (Lamp Holder Assembly) from being removed.
In order to extract the Dial Lamp PC card, I had to very carefully heat up the top of the Reflector Assembly housing with a hair dryer that had a styling nozzle on it, so that the heat is contained to one area. Use 2 small screwdrivers (1 at each end) as a prying tool, gently, while applying heat evenly across the housing.
Hint: to prevent too much heat from traveling to the Dial Panel, prop up the rear of the receiver with a 6-8” high small box, along with foam rubber or something soft under the front panel, in order to protect the knobs/controls.
Use low heat settings on the dryer only.
Afterward, I used a small Dremmel disc, to open up the lamp slots on the Reflector Assembly housing, so that the Lamp Clips will once again clear the housing.
Causation & Findings:
Someone had previously installed 8V @ 300mA lamps.
If stock 8V @ 200mA lamps can cause melting, let this be a lesson to the wise.
My Recommended Solution:
Replace all Fuse Lamps with the “SMD LED Festoon” Part Number: F30-WHP-12V Automotive lamp, possibly available at your local Automotive supplier or at www.superbrightleds.com .
They only draw 20mA each, and were recommended to me by a Marantz Poster on another website. Apparently, they work fine at the 8V AC supply from the Marantz power transformer. To better balance the load on the transformer, I recommend that you alternate the polarities of the new lamps, when installing them.
I am very disappointed that Marantz didn't specify to their part vendor to use a better grade of plastic. It is an Injection Molded part.
After these 2 meltdown experiences with my 2235 and my 2215B, I definitely recommend a full LED retrofit.
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