• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Better low end for Sansui AU999

Trnsfmr

Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I been following the developments with the AU999 here. I think that many are beginning to realize this is Sansui's best sounding amp.... ever. I recently modded two of them with Kev's bias mod, or anti clipping mod, or... preamp mod, I think he called it. Wow, very impressive. It raised the clean output level of this amp by 3-6 db. They just sound so clean and detailed at any volume level, now. Fantastic.

There's a mod I have been doing to this amp for a while, that is really simple and results in a better low end. Customers who bring me their AU999's, I tell them that they will be able to turn off the low EQ switch, and still have plenty of low end, and not need the 2-4db boost everybody runs most of the time. They don't believe me until they get the amp back and try it.

First, a little background. I don't know if you've ever heard a DC amp. A DC amplifier supposedly has response all the way down to DC, with no blocking capacitors anywhere in the chain. If you've had the chance to listen to one, on a speaker system with good low end response, you know how good they can sound on low end.

My first experience with a DC amp, was with a Crown DC300A in 1977. I had a pair of corner Klipschorns at the time and the low end just amazed me. I just had to figure out why it was so good. It certainly wasn't the added power, with the super efficient Klipsch's.

It turns out that when low end rolls off, from a tone control, amplifier passband, or whatever, there are phase effects that occur high above the -3db rolloff point. These phase effects happen all the way up to 2-4 octaves above the cutoff freq, depending on the nature of the rolloff.

These phase effects actually change the frequency and amplitude of the first few cycles of any bass note. A DC amp passes them without change. There was an AES paper about this years ago, and I still have a copy of it somewhere.

Turns out that you can show in SPICE, an electronics design simulator program, that adding a 2-4db boost to the low end will counteract these phase effects to a large degree. So maybe what we're doing when we boost the low end a little is to fix the phase response.

Even better, of course, would be to not have the problem to begin with.

In the 70's there was hardly any music with content below 40hz. Records just didn't work well below 40hz. Most of the HiFi gear started their rolloff somewhere between 20 and 40hz.

The thing is that every coupling cap between every stage of an amp or preamp has a rolloff point. They all cascade together to make an often very nasty 4-8 pole filter, with no engineered-in desirable characteristics. In fact the low end phase response is often awful. The earlier amps are usually worse, as the low end got extended as time went on and engineers became more aware of this outcome. The AU999 is from 1972 or earlier, and was not immune to the problem.

So how about this. Let's increase the size of the coupling caps between stages, so as to get these effects down as low as possible. The math would predict that if you got each insterstage rolloff point down really low, down to 2-4hz, then the phase effects in the passband would be minimized.

The coupling caps on the AU999 are these really cool Metalized Polyester (I think?) caps, the big greenies, .47-1uf. By adding larger electrolytics in parallel with these caps, this goal can be realized. I am currently adding 4.7uf caps across the big greenies, and it seems to work.

Sounds like a DC amp to me.

It's really easy, just add the little electrolytics on the back side of the boards, like you see in the picture. Don't add them on the phono board. Or, do it if you want, if you have a really quiet turntable.

First, with the amp on, use your meter to measure across each of the coupling caps to see how they are biased. Solder in the caps in with appropriate polarity.

I'd really like to hear what others think about this simple mod. Of course, you can do it to any amplifier. The possible problem is one of low frequency instability, and most SS amps do not have a problem in this regard. I've done it to quite a few amps now, with great results. I do this to the AU505/555 and it is amazing how that little amp can sound on low end.

Pretty soon, there will be two kinds of AU999. The Sansui factory model, and the AK model.

On the f1208
C701-02
C711-12
C715-16

On the F1209
C721
C725
C727
C737

On the F1159
C801

You can increase the size of the added caps across C715-16 and C737 to 10uf@50v. instead of the 4.7uf@50v for the others. These caps already have an electrolytic in parallel, and bigger will be better here as the object is to increase the coupliing cap value by several times. I know someone will ask, so, the caps I used here are Nichicon UKW.

Now, don't go crazy and go to super high values on these caps. It's not as if a little is good and a lot is better, for this. Huge caps will cause all sorts of slow turn on transients, that could cause problems.

Hope this works for you.
 

Attachments

  • 002.jpg
    002.jpg
    112.6 KB · Views: 413
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Thats an idea I was also thinking about too, nice work Jim.......:thmbsp:

I might just go ahead and start experimenting with this....
 
Oooh, very nice!

I have a 999 which I'm about to tackle, so I may implement this tweak alongside the other documented tweaks.
 
Thats an idea I was also thinking about too, nice work Jim.......:thmbsp:

I might just go ahead and start experimenting with this....

Hi Kev,
I wrote this up, not noticing that you had put your bass boost mod up. I guess I will have to try that one out too. :o) I have an AU999 in our shop for listening to music (along with a QRX9001), and with your preamp mod, it now has all the clean power we could ever want to fill up the 20'X35' space. I tell you, we here on AK are evolving the AU999 into a true masterpiece of an amp.

Love that 999
:D
 
Hi Kev,
I wrote this up, not noticing that you had put your bass boost mod up. I guess I will have to try that one out too. :o) I have an AU999 in our shop for listening to music (along with a QRX9001), and with your preamp mod, it now has all the clean power we could ever want to fill up the 20'X35' space. I tell you, we here on AK are evolving the AU999 into a true masterpiece of an amp.

Love that 999
:D

Hi Jim,
Its not really a bass boost mod so much as a slope modification to make the bass more useable....when I looked on my analyzer and saw what the bass control did, I thought it was pretty much useless, so I changed the slope and gave it more gain....
I had the 999 on my analyzer after I took the sub-sonic filter out and it is flat all the way down to 20hz with minimal phase shift...
But still I am going to experiment with the coupling cap modification, might be able to get rid on that last minimal phase shift....:thmbsp:

Even though I have all this McIntosh gear, I still listen to my AU999 every morning, I have it paired with the TU999 in my bedroom....
 
Jim and Kev, Do these mods apply to the QRX-9001 as well? I picked one up a while back that looks pretty good but needs work. I'm hoping it's simple stuff wrong with it but I'll find out. I just placed an order to Jim for the fusible resistors needed to (hopefully) get something happening at the outputs.

Thanks. --Dan
 
I've been lurking here since I bought my AU999 two years ago.
Mine is called "Mr Happy" not just for the way it makes me feel, but for the way he looks without his hat on!

Just a quick public thanks to Kev and Jim for all the amazing info here on these beautiful amps. You guys are incredibly generous and helpful and really inspiring!!

A couple of quick questions if you guys will indulge me.
If this is the wrong place, please excuse me. Perhaps it is worth a new thread, but you guys seem to have covered most of the 999 avenues already!

#1
I've blown the T03's on both sides in as many months, so am now waiting for replacements and pondering the potential of the amp while it is on the desk.
I've already talked to Jim about getting rid of the Speaker Protection Board.

I have ordered (apparently!?) 2 New Hitachi 2SC898's but have been waiting for weeks for the mail, and wondering if they will really be the real deal when they get here.

Looking at the specs for the suggested replacement T03 (OnSemi MJ21194G) they seem to have much higher power rating than the original. It seems like lots of people swap out all the small transistors but leave these T03's and the T066's. If they are being swapped anyway and there is a choice between the two, which would you advise? The other side just aqcuired NOS 898's in February.

#2
My driver board has a replacement cap (C809) that is higher Voltage than the original? 100uf 35V vs 100uf 25V. I'd like to have the same cap on both boards. (seems like a sensible thought no?)
Would you recommend going back to the 25V or up to the 35V?

Thanks folks.

Look forward to hearing the results when you guys get Jim's new low end mod happening on an amp that also has Kev's Bass EQ Control mod.

(I'm shelving my search for a subwoofer until these mods have been investigated.)

Welcome to AK, especially the Sansui forum! The experts will be along shortly.
I would ask you to start your own thread for your questions please.
C
 
I know this is a very old thread, but I think it is worth revisiting.
I recently restored my 999, sound tested it for many hours on a few different sets of speakers and inputs.
The sound is very detailed and clean at all volume levels. It's hard to describe how big the difference is after full restoration...and mods!
There, the mods, are something that got me here. While listening we were fiddling with tone controls, lows were on the +4ish at least, we also played with mids and highs to finally leave them on defeat - that was best version, 999 lacks nothing in those ranges, but lows could be more prominent.
Already have the @kevzep bas EQ control mod and pre amp mod, @stereofun driver board mods. Changed filter caps(10K) and bridge rectifier, deleted subsonic filters.
I wonder if this mod by @Trnsfmr can help with this? Is it still a mod one should do to have AK-999 :)
 
Will be following this thread, perfect timing! Just started working on my AU999, so far have removed the crowbar circuit, both sonic filters and added a triad in the power switch circuit.
Interesting that we both are at the the same tone settings. At least my ears are working! Compared to my other Sansui amps/receivers, I find the 999 has the best sound stage. Vocals and instruments seem to have a more defined location. I certainly could leave this one alone and be content with it as is.

rbart, a question for you. When switching the bass defeat switch, do you hear popping noises? My 9090DB also does this, and it's due to circuit design.
 
Last edited:
I know this is a very old thread, but I think it is worth revisiting.
I recently restored my 999, sound tested it for many hours on a few different sets of speakers and inputs.
The sound is very detailed and clean at all volume levels. It's hard to describe how big the difference is after full restoration...and mods!
There, the mods, are something that got me here. While listening we were fiddling with tone controls, lows were on the +4ish at least, we also played with mids and highs to finally leave them on defeat - that was best version, 999 lacks nothing in those ranges, but lows could be more prominent.
Already have the @kevzep bas EQ control mod and pre amp mod, @stereofun driver board mods. Changed filter caps(10K) and bridge rectifier, deleted subsonic filters.
I wonder if this mod by @Trnsfmr can help with this? Is it still a mod one should do to have AK-999 :)
Trnsfmr passed away a few years back. All the information you need to know is in the opening post, and it is something I would do, it will be the icing on the cake.
What he is talking about is how some of the Sansui (and others) are coupled, its pretty much coupling them to DC which is what that "DC coupled" is referencing...
 
Sad to hear that Trnsfmr passed away, but I am glad I found his long forgotten mod and I can be one that confirms the effects.
This modification is indeed an icing on the cake!
Bass is still controlled well but it's more juicy, more pronounced among those wonderfull mids and hihs.
Sansui now sounds as much more powerfull amp.

Yet I need to listen some more vinyls with phono board moded, the mod is so easy to do and undo, that if it will be an overkill for vinyl records I will revert it in minutes.

In a word - if you want more low end in your AU-999, do it.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20241216_213053777.jpg
    PXL_20241216_213053777.jpg
    149.1 KB · Views: 77
  • PXL_20241216_213107831.jpg
    PXL_20241216_213107831.jpg
    139.4 KB · Views: 78
Thus spake Trnsfmr:

"Pretty soon, there will be two kinds of AU999. The Sansui factory model, and the AK model."

The truth!

RIP

And eternal thanks for your contributions here.
 
Last edited:
Sad to hear that Trnsfmr passed away, but I am glad I found his long forgotten mod and I can be one that confirms the effects.
This modification is indeed an icing on the cake!
Bass is still controlled well but it's more juicy, more pronounced among those wonderfull mids and hihs.
Sansui now sounds as much more powerfull amp.

Yet I need to listen some more vinyls with phono board moded, the mod is so easy to do and undo, that if it will be an overkill for vinyl records I will revert it in minutes.

In a word - if you want more low end in your AU-999, do it.


I was just looking at the back of your 1209 board that you put the 4.7uF cap on across C721 and if my eyes don't deceive me, you have the add on cap going across R761 and not C721. Might want to check it, I have both my 1209 boards sitting here and i think the cap needs to be moved over one more spot if you are tying across C721.
 
I recently restored this very tired sounding au999. Replaced all signal transistors, all electrolytic caps, and several out of spec carbon comp resistors. Did the kevzep mods, including his constant current mod. Removed the crow bar & subsonic circuits. While all of this was a nice improvement from how it used to sound, compared to other amps including a AU222 it was still lacking something.
So I tried trnsfmr's mod. Wow wow! This sure did lift the veil from this one. Noticeable improvements, bass is punchy & tight, mids and highs brighter. Sound stage improved a bit. It now truly sounds like a TOTL when compared it's little brother AU222.
This is a must do mod along with the other "fixes".

@kevzep , I thought DC coupled means direct coupled. Meaning no caps between amp sections. Can you explain a bit?
 
I recently restored this very tired sounding au999. Replaced all signal transistors, all electrolytic caps, and several out of spec carbon comp resistors. Did the kevzep mods, including his constant current mod. Removed the crow bar & subsonic circuits. While all of this was a nice improvement from how it used to sound, compared to other amps including a AU222 it was still lacking something.
So I tried trnsfmr's mod. Wow wow! This sure did lift the veil from this one. Noticeable improvements, bass is punchy & tight, mids and highs brighter. Sound stage improved a bit. It now truly sounds like a TOTL when compared it's little brother AU222.
This is a must do mod along with the other "fixes".

@kevzep , I thought DC coupled means direct coupled. Meaning no caps between amp sections. Can you explain a bit?
Interesting, thanks for posting those observations. My AU-999 is in similar condition other than the constant current mod and Trnsfmr's mod listed here. My impression of the sound matches what you described before you did the Trnsfmr mod. I was just listening to the 999 and comparing to my 9900. The 999 sounded slightly "veiled" in comparison. However, I've also got some static in the left channel, that changes with volume, so think I've got some investigating to do in the pre-amp. I want to solve that first before doing another mod, but will be doing Trnsfmr mod for sure!
 
so think I've got some investigating to do in the pre-amp. I want to solve that first before doing another mod, but will be doing Trnsfmr mod for sure!
One of the problems I found with mine was on F1230 ripple filter. The output voltages were not being regulated for B7 & B8. R004 or R005 was completely open. Both appeared ok.
Also found out of spec resistors on F1159. And every flying saucer had way low hFE. I'm surprised it sounded as good as did.
 
I was just looking at the back of your 1209 board that you put the 4.7uF cap on across C721 and if my eyes don't deceive me, you have the add on cap going across R761 and not C721. Might want to check it, I have both my 1209 boards sitting here and i think the cap needs to be moved over one more spot if you are tying across C721.
You are right, thanks for the observation, will swap them and update the pics, so that others are not misled.
 
Back
Top Bottom