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Altec crossover upgrade

Billfort

Addicted Member
I’ve been happily using my Altec 604-8G’s for a few years now but had started to believe the stock Altec crossover was the weak link in my system. I set out to try a bunch of different things including bi-amping but after trying the Markwart design, I’m happy enough with the results that I may stop obsessing on crossovers.

This is a fairly straightforward design using a 12db low-pass and 18db hi-pass section with a later 604-8K/Altec 19 style compensation circuit on the horn. This compensation EQ circuit is supposed to attenuate the midrange energy of the horn while gradually bypassing this attenuation as frequency rises, softening some of the ‘shout’ while complimenting the compression driver’s natural roll-off to extend frequency response.

I’m not sure of the exact x-over frequencies used here and an email from Jeff Markwart didn’t really give me a clear answer but I believe the composite frequency remains at the 1k5 of the stock piece but has the ‘corners’ spaced above and below this number a small amount. This ‘gap’ in the cross points is supposed to again reduce the midrange energy in the 1k5 to 2k area and further reduce the infamous 604 midrange shout.

147markwartproto.jpg


The prototype pictured here was done to Jeff’s schematic (Simplified Altec Model 604-8H & G network with EQ) as a test mule I could give a serious listen too before committing to all expensive components and a pretty case (that will be external to my speakers). On the recommendation of Bruce Edgar and others, I used NOS GE paper-in-oil motor run caps found on ebay for a few dollars a piece. I formed the 6uF, 12uF and 25uF values needed with selected 6uF values out of large batch along with 1 tin-foil 1uF Solen cap. Coils are Alpha-Core copper foils, resistors low buck wire wounds, a 50w L-pad and wire is old stock Western Electric cloth covered copper. My intent is to replace the resistors with Mills wire-wounds and toss the L-pad after deciding on a value.

The immediate impression of this piece was that it is very smooth in the midrange, a big enough difference that it took me by surprise and had me running through music I had previously ruled out as too ‘in your face’. Initially I thought the treble was a little soft but I think this was just a little midrange shout hangover and things actually seem very extended and sweet now – it’s even more apparent now how some vinyl and SACD’s get things like cymbals so right while CD’s get them SO wrong.

I was a little concerned that the oil caps would make things sound a little dark and slow but this has not been the case at all and they seem to play VERY nicely with the horns. Many probably think ‘audiophile voodoo’ about this next statement but it really seemed that the sound of everything opened up and got ‘airier’ as time went on (burn in ? :) ).

I don’t know if it’s just a power thing or a subtle shift in system balance with this crossover but I now find myself REALLY liking 2A3 tubes (RCA black-plates currently) and may just prefer them over the 45’s I used previously. A short stint with my old 300B amps was also very exciting as the bass weight and beautiful midrange bloom of that tube really seemed to compliment this new flavor.

I have some more tweaking to do and want to get some frequency response measurements done in the next few weeks to tidy up the loose ends but this crossover was a nice step up for my system and this ugly pile of parts is indeed worthy of a pretty enclosure (pictures to follow).
 
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Billfort I know what you mean by being obsessive with the xover and parts as I spent
a whole year listening to every cap I could get my hands on with 1 speaker in mono. :sigh:

And I agree with your findings completly that oil caps just sound the best! :banana:

I spent a lot of time with my horns "klipsch rc'7's as mains" and the oil caps do the trick.
As you say they don't seem to lack detail but are just smoother sounding, kinda soothing. :)

A little like you I like to experiment with different setups amps/speakers/tubes/caps.
A little tweaking can be very rewarding. :thmbsp:

What's the xover consist of on your new setup? what order and what are the values
at each point in the xover?

I'm allways taking speakers apart and tweaking the xover to my likes. And like you I've
started to do my own external for easier tweaking. It's really nice when you understand
what the parts do and how to make the speaker do what you want!


"My intent is to replace the resistors with Mills wire-wounds and toss the L-pad after deciding on a value."
Yes I would do the same.
 
"ugly pile of parts"? Are you kidding me? Am I the only one who thinks that xo is a work of art?

Bill, I am starting to see dangerous signs in my behaviour. I certainly hope you're happy, Mister.
 
Bill,
Those look really cool, as I've said for years, I like the 604's with 18db high pass, and 12db low pass, I' started with Eminence crossovers and cut-out the stock caps and added Solen's in their place, I also added by-pass caps and a Zobel, the bypass caps were probably a waste but I love to experiment, that's the fun of this hobby!! Thanks for reporting your findings, Dave. :yes:

EMINENCE pxb2-1k6
 

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Billfort,

I like the oil caps with my horns also. I prefer the 1st order when possible.

Nice work on yours, mine are not so pretty.

Ron
 
Bill really has the knack for this doesn't he? This arrangement is truly great for the 604 series speakers. It's way better than stock or "new and improved" Xovers. I was so surprised that I tried it on my 19's as well as my 604 E's and G's with equally good results. Highly recommended. See Jeff Markwart's page for details.
 
With my 704-8A coax units I also bought the 2nd last edition of crossover made. Basically the crossover is a 2nd order low pass with a 3rd order hi pass with HF compensation.

I was thinking or trying a varation of a JBL 4430 studio monitor crossover, biggest change would be changing crossover from 1khz to 1.6khz and toy with HF compensation circuit(read much practice in tweaking here).

Ron
 
Some of you may have seen this before, but Tony Gee has a page on his site dedicated to different crossover caps: http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

I used the Ampohm caps (very reasonable in the UK from RS Components) in my most recent crossover builds with the Vishay Roederstein MKP1837 bypass caps, and I have to say I am very impressed with the results!
 
Would this work just as well for the JBL/UREI 800 coaxial drivers? I have a pair of the raw 2 ways but no cabs or crossovers. I have a schematic of the Mastering Lab crossover but have never built one so have no idea how it compares to the regular 604 crossover.
 
I know very little about the UREI 800 Jay and have only seen pictures of them.

The crossovers Markwart designed for the 604's where pretty specific to each series as the 604 went through quite an evolution over the years. I wouldn't know which version is closest to the 800 but I suspect the later 'H' might be and I think the UREI was 8ohm and used a similar horn.

Let us know how this turns out, I bet those UREI's would make a killer speaker.
 
Billfort said:
This is a fairly straightforward design using a 12db low-pass and 18db hi-pass section with a later 604-8K/Altec 19 style compensation circuit on the horn. This compensation EQ circuit is supposed to attenuate the midrange energy of the horn while gradually bypassing this attenuation as frequency rises, softening some of the ‘shout’ while complimenting the compression driver’s natural roll-off to extend frequency response.

I'd be curious to see how they compare to the old Mastering Lab crossovers. Those used to be the hot set-up for any of the later version 604's.
 
Hello Bill,
I was looking over the speaker project that Jaymanaa started back in July and I was trully impressed and awed by his crossover. That made me think of the Jeff Markwart build you did some time back with the motor run caps. That was one of the DIY's that I'd like to pursue, and I'm wondering where you may have ended up with that project?
Thanks for your time.
 
dgwojo said:
Bill,
Those look really cool, as I've said for years, I like the 604's with 18db high pass, and 12db low pass, I' started with Eminence crossovers and cut-out the stock caps and added Solen's in their place, I also added by-pass caps and a Zobel, the bypass caps were probably a waste but I love to experiment, that's the fun of this hobby!! Thanks for reporting your findings, Dave. :yes:

EMINENCE pxb2-1k6

Dwojo, could you hear a noticable difference with the Solens in the Eminence xover?
 
Paul C said:
Dwojo, could you hear a noticable difference with the Solens in the Eminence xover?
Paul, I never really ran them side by side, in the Klipsch/Altec speaker project we left them stock and they still sounded excellent, my "personal" issue is that I hate cheap electrolytics and love expensive polyprops!! I usually use Dayton's or Bennic's for the Eminence upgrades becuse the 250wvdc caps are smaller and fit better. Dave. :yes:

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Fran604g said:
Hello Bill,
I was looking over the speaker project that Jaymanaa started back in July and I was trully impressed and awed by his crossover. That made me think of the Jeff Markwart build you did some time back with the motor run caps. That was one of the DIY's that I'd like to pursue, and I'm wondering where you may have ended up with that project?
Thanks for your time.
Hi Fran. Actually, nothing has changed with these as I just love the way they sound and other projects have gotten in the way.

What remains to be done with them is mostly cosmetic and it just seemed my time and effort was better spent in areas that made more significant improvements in my system. For potential sound improvements I want to kick the pots, replace the resistors with something better and either hard-wire to the drivers/amps or use some copper binding posts. I have to do a nice case for everything too but there are several wood-shop projects ahead of these so I can live with the bad looks for now.

What I will say though is that this design is definitely worth trying for the 604 and it really seems Jeff Markwart has gotten this right. The midrange bite of these drivers is essentially gone (at least when you are careful about what amp you use) and the treble is nicely extended. I'm not too interested in experimenting with caps at this point as I love the smooth lush sound of the oil motor-runs - I'm glad I took Bruce Edgar's advice here and went in this direction.
 
After reading through this thread, those paper in oil motor run caps sound interesting. I assume that:
(1.) All motor run capacitors are paper in oil, be they Spam can or round in shape. The majority I've seen say No PCBs which I assume means mineral or vegetable oil (or wax.)
(2.) That there no issue with them being rated for AC voltage vs. DC voltage.
(3.) That using a value like 75uF is still beneficial when used for the LF circuit, rather than a cheap NP electrolytic.
 
Fuse values and placement for 604G crossovers

Hello Bill and everyone,

In light of recent events that left one of my LF VC dead (posted in both the Speakers and the Tube Audio forums) I feel compelled to ad protection for my 604G's.

This is the perfect opportunity to build these crossovers and I thought it would be prudent to add some slow blow fuses to the mix.

1) What values should I use, and will they degrade the signal to the drivers?

2) I assume that they should be placed between the amp and the xovers, or should I place them between the out on the xover and the drivers?

3) IIRC someone here at AK used LEDs for the purpose of an alert, anyone know something about that?
 
1) What values should I use, and will they degrade the signal to the drivers?
The fuse itself won't, but if you're really hell bent on fusing, SOLDER them inplace, each fuse presents 2 mechanical connections that will oxidize over time.

IIRC someone here at AK used LEDs for the purpose of an alert, anyone know something about that?
There's a "limiting" circuit that uses 12V automotive fuse style bulbs to drain current above a certain point, but i'm not intimately familiar with it. It seems to me that a similar circuit could be worked out that would use an LED to indicate when it was active.

Gotta leave this to our more advanced crossover guys.
 
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