Here is what you need, and how to do it (DIY):
YOU WILL BE USING VOLATILE AND FLAMMABLE SOLVENTS, SO WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, READ THE WARNING AT THE SOLVENT CAN.
I DID IT IN MY BALCONY, AT OPEN AIR.
You need to design, draw, write, scan, a high quality original using a computer.
I did it this way: Took a 6 mega pixel picture, with a ruler on it (that's why the "before" pict has a ruler), scaled it to 1:1 size on my computer, and typed the letters at 100% over the original pict, choosing the right font. To choose the font, I've pictured another part of the amp where original letters were still legible.
A "hi quality" original means (to me) a vector file (like typography you write on a text editor, or drawing made in vector editing software, like Adobe Illustr, Corel Draw, Impress, and others), or a hi resolution BITMAP, a Black and White bitmap at 800 or 1200 DPI could work. I prefer vectors when possible.
A "regular" color or grayscale pict, at 300 dpi, won't work. You need sharp edges, and you get this using vectors or bitmaps at high resolutions (800 dpi or more).
Then, printed on laser B-W, mirrored, at 100%. Note the guides I draw from the original pict at 100%. PRINT A LOT of them, and made some xerox copies, since sometimes, the copy works better, sometimes the original works better.
Then, place and tape it on the faceplate. (here are the guides...)
I've tried acetone, and thinner. In my case, this worked better:
The task is VERY SIMPLE, but it's a trial - error process. It seems the transfer is VERY sensitive to a lot of variables, like how wet is the paper, how much time you press on it, the pressure you do, the quality of the print.
So be prepared to do it MANY times (I think I've tried at least 50 times to get a good one), and even if in some of the tries NOTHING is transfered, it doesn't mean it doesn't work. Try with less thinner, more thinner, less time, more time, more pressure, less pressure. I'll describe MY technique at the end, what worked best after 50 or more tries.
So, place the paper.
you need to
apply a light coat of solvent on the metal surface, press the paper on it, and wet the back of the paper with more solvent.
You have to be fast since this are volatile liquids.
wet the surface:
Press the paper with more solvent:
This are 2 "failed" tries:
This is a good one, the final one. (you have to be prepared, each try could be the good one, so prepare everything each time as the 1st time):
More failed tries....
Finally, to get the good transfer, in my case and with this material, I did this way:
from the ORIGINAL laser print (xerox copies worked better on other materials, but here, the original was better), very little solvent on the metal, very quickly pressed the paper with more solvent for like 2 seconds or more, then removed the cotton and pressed hard on the back of the paper with my nail, to adhere the toner to the metal. Some people press with a spoon, but I prefer my finger.
As stated, it's not an "industrial" procedure, you can't measure it. Doing almost the same, in some tries nothing was transferred, like putting too much solvent dissolves the transfer and put it back on the paper, and using too little doesn't remove the toner from the paper.
I hope this can help other people with this same problem.
