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Fixing a stuck pot

txturbo

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
After looking for a replacement set of pots for my Realistic STA-180 I decided to repair them.

The problem is they would not move without considerable effort, the kind of effort that would strip the knob. I searched and searched but could not find an answer for this except to replace the pot.

After wrecking one of the pots from my parts unit (it has the same problem) I discovered that the source of the friction is between the aluminum shaft and the threaded brass collar. It had nothing to do with the wipers or anything inside the part. I attempted to use all sorts of lubricants to get it to move. I used a heat gun to warm the part up, this made it better but it went back to the failed condition as soon as it cooled down. Nothing was going to work, or so I thought.

The fix is rather simple. All you need is a 1/16 drill bit, a drill press, vice and a bit of light oil.

First.. Place the pot in the vice with the shaft extending from the end of the jaws.

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Then drill a hole at the base of the shaft using a 1/16 drill. Just drill through the brass lightly until you hit the aluminum.

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Remove the shavings from the drilling and apply a bit of oil.
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Work the knob back and forth, applying a bit more oil. If it's still a bit tight use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the part up. After a bit the unit should be good as new.

16942469939_c94221b0dc_z.jpg


As long as the part is out give it a good cleaning and deoxin.... Enjoy!
 
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I had a similar problem with a McIntosh pot. Without removing it, I managed to get some DeOxit down into the shaft using a dropper, one drop at a time. It took a while to allow it to seep into the shaft.

Then, I used the heat from a soldering iron to heat up the threaded shaft while gently turning the inner shaft with a pair of pliers. Be prepared to flush the pots, however, as I also discovered that the newly-refreshed mixture of old and new materials will also seep into the pots themselves. They'll likely need a few flushes of FaderLube to get the gunk out of them.

The root cause is the damping material, similar to what is used in a turntable cuing mechanism to lower the arm, has dried out, thus seizing the inner shaft.

Cheers,

David
 
Hi txturbo
Have been reading your posts from several years ago. I have a realistic sta180 that I purchased new in 2018. It has worked well for all these years. yesterday, I turned it on and I have no AM or FM. Buttons light up but no signal movement on the strength indicator and no red tuning light on the dial indicator. I tried the AUX 1 input which is a tape deck and everything works fine. Since I do not have a service manual nor does anyone else it appears, do you have any suggestion as to what caused this situation? This has been a great unit and I hope I don't have to throw it away.

Thanks for any help you can give.
happy app
 
Hi txturbo
Have been reading your posts from several years ago. I have a realistic sta180 that I purchased new in 2018. It has worked well for all these years. yesterday, I turned it on and I have no AM or FM. Buttons light up but no signal movement on the strength indicator and no red tuning light on the dial indicator. I tried the AUX 1 input which is a tape deck and everything works fine. Since I do not have a service manual nor does anyone else it appears, do you have any suggestion as to what caused this situation? This has been a great unit and I hope I don't have to throw it away.

Thanks for any help you can give.
happy app

Happy, you posted a new topic in an over three year old thread. I suggest you start a NEW thread of your own in order to get responses that will help you fix your issue.
Also Welcome to AK :biggrin:
 
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