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New build thread - Gillespie SE-1

derekva

This ain't no picnic...
Subscriber
Still gathering parts, but I've started the chassis portion of the build. All holes drilled and tube sockets mounted:

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I'm dipping into my stock of vintage Cinch sockets for this one. This is the last of my best octal sockets, so I'll have to search for more. No pins wobbling around on this socket. I used Front Panel Express' software to lay out everything and attached to the chassis as a drilling template. Unfortunately, the adhesive I used on the top was a bit hard to remove so the finish is a little less than perfect than it was coming from the factory, but it's good enough. I realized my error and laid painters' tape down first on the back, then attached the template.

OPTs and choke will be mounted underneath. Only the PT, the tubes and the binding posts will be on the top deck. Still need to add a power switch somewhere...not sure if it will be the back next to the fuse holder or on the front.

More to come as the build progresses. Hopefully my last few resistors (KOA Speer carbon film) will be arriving today.

-D
 
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could you have just got an 8604 and did all the mods that Mr/ Gillispie
did? just curious.
I assume that schematic is stereo one ch shown>
 
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could you have just got an 8604 and did all the mods that Mr/ Gillispie
did? just curious.
I assume that schematic is stereo one ch shown>

Yes. But given that the only things that are retained from the 8604 are the chassis, tube sockets and power transformer, and given that that in the Puget Sound region, anything with tubes in it is going for crazy money now, it was cheaper to spend $15 on a Hammond box, dip into my parts bins for the power transformer, tube sockets, miscellaneous hardware, etc. and tubes, then buy the $15/ea. OPTs that Dave used. Right now I'm about $50 into this project and that's probably going to be the full extent of what this will cost me.

Granted, not everyone has extra tube sockets, tubes, power transformers, etc. in their parts bins, so YMMV. :D

-D
 
The tube sockets there are for both channels. Not sure where the transformers are going to be located yet.
 
Yes. But given that the only things that are retained from the 8604 are the chassis, tube sockets and power transformer, and given that that in the Puget Sound region, anything with tubes in it is going for crazy money now, it was cheaper to spend $15 on a Hammond box, dip into my parts bins for the power transformer, tube sockets, miscellaneous hardware, etc. and tubes, then buy the $15/ea. OPTs that Dave used. Right now I'm about $50 into this project and that's probably going to be the full extent of what this will cost me.

Granted, not everyone has extra tube sockets, tubes, power transformers, etc. in their parts bins, so YMMV. :D

-D


I agree. If you got the parts it's the way to go. Unfortunately I don't. I could repurpose another chassis but thats all.

So did you have a spare magnavox power xfmr to match the 8604? If not, what did you use? Wouldn't I need at least a mag xfmr for the build.?
 
I've got an 8" x12" x3" chassis I'm working on now. What did you use to cut the rectangular hole? I use stepped bits for the round holes. For square and rectangular I've been using small cut off wheels on my rotary tool. I ordered a step bit that goes to 1 3/8" for the octal holes, should be here today. I'm using cinch sockets as well.
 
I've got an 8" x12" x3" chassis I'm working on now. What did you use to cut the rectangular hole? I use stepped bits for the round holes. For square and rectangular I've been using small cut off wheels on my rotary tool. I ordered a step bit that goes to 1 3/8" for the octal holes, should be here today. I'm using cinch sockets as well.

I drilled a couple of pilot holes and then used a nibbler tool for the rectangular hole.

Sadly, when I finished drilling, I realized my template had somehow misprinted so one of my RCA jacks on the back is about 1/8" higher than the other. :sigh:

-D
 
The tube sockets there are for both channels. Not sure where the transformers are going to be located yet.

For mine, they're going underneath on either side of the 12AX7 socket (you can see the pilot holes in the shots above). I'll post more photos tonight.

-D
 
I drilled a couple of pilot holes and then used a nibbler tool for the rectangular hole.

Sadly, when I finished drilling, I realized my template had somehow misprinted so one of my RCA jacks on the back is about 1/8" higher than the other. :sigh:

-D

I have a nibbler out in my shop somewhere, ill have to try it next time. Thanks. At leased the offset jack is on the back. :D
 
Sadly, when I finished drilling, I realized my template had somehow misprinted so one of my RCA jacks on the back is about 1/8" higher than the other. :sigh:
-D

You can always file the jack holes so they center, and use a nice finish washer to hide the oblong holes... file one down 1/16" and the other up.. its a pretty minimal adjustment if you move them both...
 
You can always file the jack holes so they center, and use a nice finish washer to hide the oblong holes... file one down 1/16" and the other up.. its a pretty minimal adjustment if you move them both...

Good idea. I may end up doing that...or may just leave it since it is, as Levane pointed out, on the back. :thmbsp:

-D
 
Would a 5Y3 rectifier instead of a 6CA4 destroy Dave's
fine design efforts?

Not in the least. In fact, going octal gives me more options with regard to voltage. I could jack the B+ up by using a 5AR4 if I decided to do so (although there may be unintended results).

-D
 
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