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DCM TimeFrame TF700 Restoration

ssouci

Well-Known Member
whew!!!!... finally finished restoring my recently acquired DCM TimeFrame TF700s

man, what a massive and fussy job, especially in a small apartment... took me a LOT longer and required more $$$ than expected, and had setbacks along the way, but they now look brand new (maybe even better?), cosmetically perfect, and sound fantastic so far based on limited listening :music::music::music:

these had been previously restored, but sadly, I discovered several negative issues once I got them home, and they didn't nearly measure up to my existing TF500s... so unfortunately, yes I overpaid, but not too wildly(?)... now these TF700s easily surpass them, especially in the depth of bass, midrange quality of voices, and general clarity... the TF700s are bigger, badder, and all around better sounding

summary:

- new Vifa tweeters (to correct the new Seas Prestige that had been installed... nice, but sound-wise, I don't think they work correctly as direct replacements)
- new woofer rubber surrounds (old glue was incorrect and had failed plus rubber was old and starting to crack)
- crossovers rebuilt and all caps replaced upgraded (Solens for mylars), all solder joints checked, most redone
- crossovers updated to later revision with R1 (since these were the "first generation" model)
- crossover parts held down with silicone, etc. to prevent broken leads from vibration
- added dampening putty to woofer frames
- built new "acoustic lenses" to replace missing units (grrrr...)
- wiring beefed up to 18 awg, new 5-way terminals
- driver area particleboard cleaned up and strengthened (arrgg...)
- converted to all black
- rubber feet added (IMHO, a mandatory upgrade for TimeFrames...)
- rear panel screw holes cleaned up, relocated, and countersunk
- rear panel seals improved (butyl sealing tape)
- fabric covering converted to full coverage (as on later generations)

rebuilding the crossovers was a real pain as I had to pull most of the parts and redo all the connections and the layout... the new thicker leads wires did not help... this is a "first generation" crossover with the point-to-point wiring, which was a pain to work on, but supposedly is actually better than the later PCB style... actually, a lot of other things were also a real pain!!!... and the time to research things, order parts, and go get parts was surprisingly time consuming

I'll try to post more details and pics later, time permitting

... and thanks to everyone who helped me along the way by replaying to my posts!

now, if only I didn't have a cat... TimeFrames are probably the world's nicest cat scratch posts, so I'll have to make up some ugly slip-on cardboard speaker covers, same as for my TF500s (removed only for listening)

[DCM, TF700, TF-700, timeframe, time frame, timeframes, rebuild, restoration, mods]
 

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a few more pics...
 

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and more pics...
 

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Fabulous restoration!
They must sound as good as they look!

Whenever a restoration project is started, always expect it to take longer, and cost more than anticipated. Love the easy access to the drivers and crossovers. Where is the fabric from? I need something like this for my Time Windows.

Cheers, Glenn
 
Where is the fabric from? I need something like this for my Time Windows. Cheers, Glenn

thanks for the comments... the speaker cloth was from a local speaker repair shop (I traded the pulled Seas tweeters for it...)... don't think it's anything special... you can get "speaker cloth" from Fabricland and of course Parts Express... not sure if it's any better/worse
 
The rubber feet are a very nice touch.

thanks!... I first put those feet on my TF500s... mainly to provide isolation for my downstairs neighbours (and this does work), but I could also swear the speakers sound noticeably better and cleaner

plus it makes the speakers look much better, better balanced visually and with better posture, and generally much cooler and more technical... not to mention taller, which raises the tweeter even higher (good) and makes the speakers appear bigger... and size matters!
 
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MY CONGRATULATIONS, I HAVE A PAIR OF TF600 AND REARS TF350. I CONVERTED THE TF600 TO 2WAY SPEAKERS USING THE VIFA T25 TWEETER AND THE PEERLESS 830869 8" hD NOMEX INCLUDING THE TF350. MAN YOU JUST MADE ME BUY ANOTHER PAIR FOR THE FRONTS TF700 AND USE THE TF600 FOR THE REARS. I TOOK THE FC350 AND ADDED 1/2 MDF TO THE FRONTS SO THE FRONT IS 1" THICK AND INCREASED AN ELIMINATED THE 6 1/2 WOOFER AND REPLACE THEM WITH THE ABOVE INCLUDING THE XOVER. yOU DID A GREAT JOB WHAT i USED TO PAINT WAS THE HOME DEPOT DECK 10 THICK AND LOVE THE WAY THEY LOOK. bUT YOURS ARE JUST GREAT.

BEST TO YOU.
 
Where did you get the feet? I've got this pair of TF500's and I think those would help quite a bit.

Mark Gosdin
 
CROSSOVER SCHEMATICS:

after a ton of research, I finally made up my own schematic for the TF700, which must be used in conjunction with the official schematic for the TF1000 (because that one shows all the part values)

I have ATTACHED both schematics with this post

NOTE:
- all parts, drivers, and wiring appear to be the exact same for TF1000 and TF700, except that TF700 has RA = 47ohms
- R1 appears to be missing in early TF700s that used a non-PCB "point-to-point wired" crossover style (that was the case for me)... also, seems that some do have an R1, but it is 47ohms, not 15ohms... I ended up using 15ohms for R1 which is what some later TF700s have, plus that is what TF1000 uses... so I assumed that 15ohms was the "final design"

cheers!
 

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Where did you get the feet? I've got this pair of TF500's and I think those would help quite a bit.

Mark Gosdin

these feet were my own invention

I bought them at Home Depot... they are not actually feet, but they are rubber protectors that are designed to slip onto the feet of furniture, but I used them upside down... they come in a whole range of sizes (diameters), and are pretty cheap... I used the same but slightly smaller ones on my TF500s... they look cool when a bit bigger, so don't go too small

I put 6 on each speaker: 4 at corners of the speaker itself (oak base), and then one on each tip of the wooden "stabilizer bars"

they are mounted using screws and washers, and I pre-drilled small pilot holes into the wood first... also, drilled a small hole in the rubber before passing the screw into them

they are somewhat pliable, so they definitely help stop vibrations from transmitting, yet stiff enough to not collapse (from the pretty heavy speakers)

once you get used to having these feet on your Timeframes, you will always want them! (and if not, easy to simply remove)

PICS attached below:

good luck, and thanks everyone for your kind comments and feedback!
 

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Thank you! The Home Depot people have a banner saying "Welcome Back!" that they use for me, I've spent so much time & money there.

Mark Gosdin
 
WOW...SUPER work!

Even though I have two pairs and love them. I'm still amazed at their ported enclosure theories.
 
"but I could also swear the speakers sound noticeably better and cleaner"

That's because you invented these (IsoAcoustics), but didn't realize you had! :)
That wins you the Internet my friend. Kudos to you for noticing the difference. These iso stands are all the rage now in recording studios around the world now. I have a pair.

I also committed to a pair of the TF1000's here today for $150. I must say, your restoration job is beautiful. Excellent work.

And thank you so much for posting the schematics! Very cool of you! Now if only I knew how to read them and had experience rebuilding these. It's on my list to learn this though... Starting my research in recapping... Got 30+ pairs of vintage speakers now. Might as well learn.
 
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