1019 motor need 2 copper discs

Yes Headshell with (Cart and stylus), Platter, Spindler and main bearing, Rebuilt motor and lower bearing sanded bottom slug perfectly flat and Relubed. Took apart idler asembly and relubed.

Was just reading someone saying speed changer might be it FFS haha. It does seem idler reladed.. what do I know.
 
In my experience, a noise being amplified by the cartridge is often audible to the naked ear (arm cued up). Unfortunately, not the case here, so finding source is much more difficult. Obviously.

You don't happen have a stethoscope lying around, do you?
 
In my experience, a noise being amplified by the cartridge is often audible to the naked ear (arm cued up). Unfortunately, not the case here, so finding source is much more difficult. Obviously.

You don't happen have a stethoscope lying around, do you?
That I do not. I do have another 1019 tho.
 
I guess you could swap idlers and associated assembly. If no joy, then motors. Or maybe first clean/lube the pitch control mechanism...or whatever the person who pitched that as a potential source of the problem recommended as a solution.
 
Actually I just shut off my tube amps and with head over platter,,, I CAN hear a faint chuga, chuga, chuga, chuga, very fast coming from it with arm at start AND at mid. Arm does not seem to matter.
 
Holy **** I pulled the platter off and The rubber must have came partially off this new idler.. I guess that is the issue with these as they are only an outside rubber ring.. not impressed, but thx for getting me to look under the hood. Testing again for sound now.
 
i put my original dual idler back in and it is much better. These are brand new Audio Vault idlers. I need to have a word with them I think. WAY more quiet with the original Dual idler. Like 80 / 20% Even after I fixed the rubber that slid off..
 
something else I've found that helps motors like this after a re-assembly is a couple of light whacks with a screwdriver handle at each end near the bearing. That will knock the bearings into alignment and tends to make them quieter and easier to spin.
 
Took the motor apart again and see there is already a small spot on that washe I
sanded starting again. I tried 2 things loosened the screws holding the bottom bearing cap on and also
the back cover for the motor was stuck on so I got that off with a bit of struggle. I took it off as I thought it
may be crooked.. In one spot the laminate was slightly separated in a spot looks. like happend previously. i also turned the bearing over to try something different. Listening now. extremely faint. But better. The bottom of that
spindler looks to be mashined with a tiny point on it would explain the wear. Looks like a nice shiny finish also.
 
Washer? Or do you mean the metal thrust pad/disc? Did you replace the small felt washer (oil retainer)?

Does the shaft of the motor have any abrasion/scoring?
 
Washer? Or do you mean the metal thrust pad/disc? Did you replace the small felt washer (oil retainer)?

Does the shaft of the motor have any abrasion/scoring?
Yes I meant thrust pad,, no scoring or abbrasion,, just smooth machined chrome but the tip is almost perfectly round but looking like it would have been when machined originally. Both felt and small foam Washer in excellent shape washed it out. cleaned and re oiled. No scoring just smooth chrome..
 

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Can you actually sand the bottom end of the rotor shaft? someone had something posted about 1000 grit sandpaper. Would not want to tale the chrome off.. It is not
perfectly round. Slight bump but not scratched or corroded. Feels smooth but slight dimple in center. Just not sure if it was machined like that originally.
 
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