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1989 BMW 535i ?????

Cowboyjr

New Member
I've been lookin at buying a BMW I found what looks like a nice deal but, I don't know too much about BMWs. So, I thought I'd see what you guys think. I looking at a 1989 BMW 535i about 180,000 miles auto transmission.
Their asking 1,300 for the car and from the photos it looks to be in good condition there's a dent in the hood about the size of a softball but no rust.

So, What do you guys think? Sound like a good deal?
What kind of things should I ask/look for when buying a BMW?
This would be my first car. Is a BMW a good First Car?

I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks,Joe
 
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Those cars are nice, and the engines are reputed to be indestructable. I think they lack hydraulic lifters though and will require valve adjustments. Make sure there is no vibration coming from the driveshaft, that could be a costly repair. Also, make sure the coolant looks good and the car doesn't run hot. Just remember, it's cheaper to buy a well maintained car than one that's been neglected. Does the owner have service records?
 
I've been lookin at buying a BMW I found what looks like a nice deal but, I don't know too much about BMWs. So, I thought I'd see what you guys think. I looking at a 1989 BMW 535i about 180,000 miles auto transmission.
Their asking 1,300 for the car and from the photos it looks to be in good condition there's a dent in the hood about the size of a softball but no rust.

So, What do you guys think? Sound like a good deal?
What kind of things should I ask/look for when buying a BMW?
This would be my first car. Is a BMW a good First Car?

I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks,Joe

heres the low down k? be very careful do alot of thinking yes they are beautiful looking cars. but they no matter what yr bmw's mercedes volvos an land rovers are VERY TEMPERMENTIAL !!!!!!!!! they have electrical problems quite abit. parts are not cheap an labor will cost. ive been driving a tow an ramp truck pretty much since the early 90's 85-90% of my road calls are the cars ive listed above. i havent towed a toyota, honda or mazda in the past 4 yrs :thmbsp: chevy an ford here an there. so what i would do if i was you have your father or uncle find a bmw tech and an honest one have them go over the car very well imo
 
Those cars are nice, and the engines are reputed to be indestructable. I think they lack hydraulic lifters though and will require valve adjustments. Make sure there is no vibration coming from the driveshaft, that could be a costly repair. Also, make sure the coolant looks good and the car doesn't run hot. Just remember, it's cheaper to buy a well maintained car than one that's been neglected. Does the owner have service records?

go for it. It's an E34 based car and I believe they fixed the driveshaft issue for the E34. I have an '86 E24 6 series (exact same engine as yours) and I had to completely overhaul the driveshaft due to bad U-joints. the engine is basically bulletproof even if you run it hard. valve adjustments are super easy.

the only thing that I'd be worried about is the auto trans. does it slip? if it's the original one, not rebuilt, it's probably going to bite the dust sooner or later. 5 speed conversions are not that hard in these cars, i'd recommend it when the auto trans goes.

i know a guy with 320,000 miles on his E34 535i (exact same as yours) and it runs strong on the stock engine and 5 speed.
 
I've owned numerous vintage BMW's and I once drove a 1972 Mercedes 250/8 more than 5 hours each way to the SCCA nationals at Hallett...

Parts are extremely expensive and often dealer only items.

Don't buy a high mileage BMW for your first car. You will regret it.
 
Joe, not to throw water on you but a BMW is not a good 1st time buyer's car. While sexy and in, they come with high overhead. Maintenance, not even repairs, is not inexpensive and repairs can be out of sight. With most European cars the key to reliability and long life is the maintenance schedule and keeping to it religiously. If not, they seem to start with nitpicking little problems that continue to grow and when you finally go to tackle them, your teeth can drop out.

Pacific rim cars can be more reliable with less maintenance but, I find parts costs for many of the core items are really no more or less than the costs for the European cars. However, I also notice that more of the Pacific rim cars on the used market are in need of more work to bring them up, a product of not having the maintenance done as recommended.

US car company cars are a mixed bag. Some models are reliable and even if not well maintained ling lived. Think of the Lincolns used as fleet cars with 500,000 and more miles on them. Also, the Impala has been good in this regard. Repair costs also are more managable or at least generally less shocking.

In the past I've found that many cars seem to have 60,000 mile cycles where every multiple it goes through a period of needing quite a bit of work and then is reliable for the next period until the multiple is hit. With 180,000 on the clock it is in that multiple so I'd suggest if getting it, have a good reserve budget to bring the car up to snuff and to be an enjoyable driver.

As to the comment about getting one that has been maintained - a definite confirmation to that recommendation. I can tell you from experience that bringing one back may be fun for a DIY'er but for a primary driver or for someone who is not a mechanic you can have a sinkhole.

When I buy a car, I always assume I need struts, belts, hoses, all new flluids and filters, usually brakes, alignment, front end bushings and A/C work at a minimum. I budget about $3k for any car I buy to make sure it is in decent condition and safe to drive. I may be a bit conservative but, I want to make sure my family is safe.

As an alternative, may I suggest right now, there are some great deals on new cars, and buying used vs new is more of an economic issue. The 3 US compnaies have some deals that are too good not to consider. Going new has the benefit of the warranty, and if you can afford a decent downpayment, the financing costs can be less than the average annula maintenance costs of a used car. Yes, you may not be driving as "much" of a vehicle in the eyes of others but a Chevy Malibu will ultimately do the same as a BMW, get you from point A to point B. Also, you can lease to bring the pricing down but, I'm not a leasing fan because of the issues that can hit on turnin and the darned charges they love to try to hit you with. Lastly, and important today, financing can help establish or improve a credit rating and that can be golden in the future.
 
Don't buy a high mileage BMW for your first car. You will regret it.

+1. As the past owner of numerous German cars (BMW, Audi, Porsche), I agree emphatically that this is most certainly not a good first car choice. I'm a fan of nearly all things German, but not for this application. Screwy electrical systems and very expensive to maintain in the U.S. I shudder to think of the price of repairing that tranny when it croaks. As a driveway ornament, it might be OK. But as a daily driver - NOT!!!:thumbsdn:
 
Having sold BMW, Porsche, and Audi for over twenty years, I agree with blanket statement but it pertains to the Audi and Porsche much more than the BMW.

I have three daily-drivers at home my wife, myself, and my daughters share. One is an '87 BMW 535is 5sp with 230,000 miles, another a '95 525i 5sp with 170,000 miles, and the other a '98 318ti automatic with 195,000 miles. Expenses over the past six year with the '87 and '98 have been minimal and I've been driving the '95 for four years putting 60k on it in that time and have replaced only tires (17" on this one), wiper inserts, two rear-shock mounts (not the shocks), some bulbs, and done several oil changes. Maintenance has been boring. I might even change the plugs one day just because it seems like it should get some sometime. The two newer cars have never had any exhaust work, water pumps, or radiators. I put new brake pads on them when I got them and haven't had to replace them yet after 70k and 60k miles. I did have to put tire-rod ends and control-arm bushings on the '98, replaced all the water hoses and connectors, one window regulator, and the damn secondary-air pump and valve thanks to EPA-mandated ODB-II requirements. It makes weekly 200-mile round trips to DC with my wife behind the wheel and returns a consistent 36-mpg on those trips; a good thing given its tiny 13-gallon tank. The '95 makes several 1,000-mile-day trips picking up kids at college each year and returns about 28mpg on those 80+mph blasts. The '87 does require maintenance since it has the M30 6-cylinder similar to the OP's 535i in question so it needs a valve adjustment every 15-30k miles, not that they're ever off by much. I gave it a new oil pump at 200k, because the idiot light was slow to extinguish after sitting fo a few days, and it's had front-end bushings and brakes and needs work to make the A/C blow cold again. There's a huge difference in reliability between an '80s BMW and a '90s BMW. My '95 is the most reliable BMW I've ever owned. The others were neither difficult or expensive to maintain, if you don't mind getting involved with your car and it's servicing. Not everyone should own a BMW, but for those who appreciate what they can do and do well, there is usually no other car they care to own.

I've owned old BMWs for 38 years. There are few cars that can carry that mileage as gracefully and with such minimal expense. BMWs do it very well, depending on the model. Knowing what model to get is key, as is knowing a good car of any brand from a bad one.
 
Having sold BMW, Porsche, and Audi for over twenty years, I agree with blanket statement but it pertains to the Audi and Porsche much more than the BMW.

I generally agree with this statement having owned all three, both in the U.S. and in Germany. I don't have the best of experience with dealerships for these brands in the U.S. With some exceptions, dealerships for German cars in the mid-Atlantic region that I'm familiar with tend to treat you as though you've consciously bought into expensive maintenance/repairs and uppity service personnel as a result of driving a "luxury" car. If you have a competent private mechanic or can do the service yourself, it may be worthwhile. If you're going to get it serviced at the dealership, forget it - way too expensive.

My commentary may bit a bit harsh, but it has something to do with having experienced service for all 3 brands in Germany. With the possible exception of Porsche, these brands aren't considered luxury and the dealerships for all brands are dead honest, reliable, and provide good value. It was a rude awakening moving back here with German cars and getting them serviced in the U.S. As noted, I'm a fan of all things German, but I won't consider again owning a German car in the U.S. It's not worth the relative hassle.

Admittedly, Porsche, Audi and VW have a worse reputation for service in the mid-Atlantic region. For quite a while, their surliness and incompetence was the stuff of legend.
 
I think as a general proposition the same can be said of most European cars as to service in the US. Drive in with a Saab, Volvo, Fiat, Jag, Rover and even a Caddy Catera and watch the responses. The only salvation has been that I've been lucky with dealerships that generally are not that much more than independents and know the cars. The killer is captive parts as regardless of who does the work the part is sourcable only from the car maker and when you hear $500 for a battery cable (Mercedes), $495 for a turn signal wand (Rolls Royce), $750 for an emergency brake cable (Volvo) or $1,600 for an electronic dash assembly ( older BMW) is makes one wish for a 1966 Chevy Impala with an inline 6-cylinder engine. Pricing wise there seems to be little difference between makers in many parts. I had a Jag the same time I had a Volvo and part for part, repair for repair they were within spitting distance of each other. Even complete engines were within $100 and surprisingly, the Volvo was the more expensive. You need some passion for cars and driving and a deeper wallet to support it when you go European than with cars from other regions.
 
Two issues come to mind. One, you can get a bad Toyota, Honda, etc in the used market just as easily as a bad Euro car. Two, I have an 86 5 Series and I just buy parts at Autozone.

IF you want to maintain exact BMW specs, parts are expensive. But with 180K on the clock, who cares. It's a daily driver. It's now a nice German Buick. The new is worn off and it ain't going to see any track days?

There are lots of parts work arounds. The 5 series has issues with front suspension shimmy when breaking - OK, go to the Bay and buy upper and lower control arms with Green Bushings (7 series). Not only will the shimmy be gone, but you'll swear you just stuck some Bilstiens on it. The front end is so tight it's like a whole new car - cost $200. The list goes on. You DO NOT have to buy OEM parts from BMW and pay Fritz $200/HR to put them in :(
 
If you want to use a dealer to service your BMW, buy a new one and you'll get free maintenance for the warranty period. If you buy a used BMW that's out of warranty DON'T take it to a dealership for service. In the DC area there are myriad independent BMW shops, mostly populated by techs who escaped from dealerships, and many really know their stuff. But they're still expensive, even if they happen to be honest. The reality is a BMW dealer is no more expensive than a Toyota or Ford dealership and, though many will find this unbelievable, the parts for my BMW are cheaper than for my Toyota truck or Chrysler van.
 
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