2010 Cap List?

Stratman

Member
I have a 2010 in immaculate cosmetic condition, but it likely needs a recap. I have the schematic and parts list, and can try to come up with my own replacement list, but I'd have more confidence if there were an existing cap replacement list to double check my work.

The boards are:

P200 MPX
P300 Phono
P500 Tone
P600 Power Amp
P800 Power Supply

Are these boards in any other Marantz units that might have a parts list available? Alternatively, would any of the pros around here have the part numbers for the "must replace" caps?

I'm always appreciative of the expertise of this forum!
 
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Here's what I just put in my 2010, I am just a noob and just learning. Right nowI only use Nichicon caps in the same (or as close as possible) value. Only did Power Amp / Power Supply and Filter caps.


Power Supply:


C803/804 330uf 50v Nichicon Blue (KT?)

C805 220uf 16v Nichicon Gold Tune

C806 100uf 50v Nichicon Muse

C808 470uf 10v Nichicon Gold Tune

C809 100uf 50v Nichicon Muse



Power Amp


C623/624 2200uf 50v Nichicon Fine Gold

C615/616 110uf 35v Nichicon Fine Gold

C609-610 47uf 50v Nichicon Fine Gold

C611-612 100uf 50v Nichicon Fine Gold

C613/614 100uf 10v Nichicon Fine Gold

C629/630 22uf 50v Nichicon Blue (KT?)

C601/602 100uf 35v Nichicon Fine Gold

C607/608 1uf 50v Nichicon PW


Filter


3000uf 75V Conrad/Dubler


2010caps1.jpg 2010caps2.jpg 2010caps3.jpg

Rich
 
It was very dirty and scratched, after some cleaning (I'm still not confident to try the windex treatment the guys on AK use), it actually sounds pretty good for a 10 watt amp. I had it hooked to Bose 201's just to let it burn in a little. It sounds much cleaner and tighter on the low end and the crisper on the highs (Bose are kind of lacking in the high end, so hard to tell). Was the first filter cap I changed and with o-ring connectors it worked pretty good. I put the grounds in one ring and the chassis ground in another on the same lug. The large cap fits the clamp and is just short enough to fit.
 
Good to hear. I also have a 2010 that I want to do after the 2230 so will refer to you post when I do. Thanks. Glad it worked out for you. Amazing the sound quality that comes from these small units. Mine sounds pretty good now so can't wait to recap it to see how it will sound.
 
I want to order all new Caps etc. for my Marantz 2010 for restoration but I’m struggling to try to understand how I would know what resistors/transistors/diodes etc. to replace. Replacing just the caps is somewhat straight forward to a degree in that I replace value for value usually printed on the caps itself or on the advice of the many good folks here. ( I’m still trying to learn the various options for this as well ). I’ve tried to read on this forum as much as time will permit me to, but it’s still confusing. I recently restored my 2215 and 2220 ( which I thoroughly enjoyed with much help from those here as well ) but that was only because I ordered a list of replacement parts put together by the experts here, for each specific model. I understand that there are certain components prone to failure and should be replaced but how do I know which ones for which models. I look at the part numbers in the SM for the semis and try to understand what they mean ( who am I kidding ) so I can try to match up something on the web based supply sites such as Mouser but to be honest I get lost and I’m afraid I will order the wrong items or values etc. and mess it up completely. I get a little frustrated with myself for not being able to understand it all. Is there a way to just look at a circuit board and decide…ok these should be replaced but these can stay. I s there a way to cross reference Marantz part numbers on the Mouser/Digikey site?? I’ve read on here that usually just the caps can be replaced without going any further but I’m the type of person that likes to do ALL. Maybe that’s the wrong approach for a beginner just getting into this hobby such as myself.


Bottom line I guess is, should I just replace the caps only, and leave it at that until I learn more?
 
Here is how an inexperienced person like me goes about deciding on replacing semis or not. I think for the most part, you can leave transistors and diodes alone unless it is the failure prone 2SC458. Looking at the 2010 SM, I don't see any of those. However, if you want to find substitutes for those on the parts list, it takes some research. Looking at the P800 Power Supply, it looks like there is 1 transistor - a 2SC1384. Plugging that into Google search and AK search, I found more than one place where people substituted KSC2690AYS, which Mouser carries. However, I notice that it has a different case than the 2SC1384. Original is TO-92 and replacement is TO-126. It would take someone with more experience than me to say if that replacement is OK, but several on AK have used it as a substitute. As for that batch of diodes - 4 of the S-1.5-01 and 3 of the W06B -- it looks like from this list, the 1N4005 will work for both. http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1772&keywords=1n4005. Even though the title is 1N4001/1N4004, if you go through the list (numerical order, then alpha order), you will see that 1N4005, S-1.5-01 and W06B are all on the list. Again, if I do research like this and find originals or equivalents that I haven't seen before, I would just throw it out there in a thread and let the experts give it a blessing or not. I see lots of advice to leave semis alone unless there is trouble of some kind. But I'm with you. If I can find substitutes that I have confidence in (meaning I can find where more experienced people have used them), I like to replace them -- outside of tuner and other signal boards. Hope this doesn't muddy the water, but bottom line is, put the part number you find on the SM parts list into AK search and see if a substitute has been discussed. If not, put it in Google search with the word "equivalent" and dig through the results. Or....just leave them alone. :D
 
Here is how an inexperienced person like me goes about deciding on replacing semis or not. I think for the most part, you can leave transistors and diodes alone unless it is the failure prone 2SC458. Looking at the 2010 SM, I don't see any of those. However, if you want to find substitutes for those on the parts list, it takes some research. Looking at the P800 Power Supply, it looks like there is 1 transistor - a 2SC1384. Plugging that into Google search and AK search, I found more than one place where people substituted KSC2690AYS, which Mouser carries. However, I notice that it has a different case than the 2SC1384. Original is TO-92 and replacement is TO-126. It would take someone with more experience than me to say if that replacement is OK, but several on AK have used it as a substitute. As for that batch of diodes - 4 of the S-1.5-01 and 3 of the W06B -- it looks like from this list, the 1N4005 will work for both. http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1772&keywords=1n4005. Even though the title is 1N4001/1N4004, if you go through the list (numerical order, then alpha order), you will see that 1N4005, S-1.5-01 and W06B are all on the list. Again, if I do research like this and find originals or equivalents that I haven't seen before, I would just throw it out there in a thread and let the experts give it a blessing or not. I see lots of advice to leave semis alone unless there is trouble of some kind. But I'm with you. If I can find substitutes that I have confidence in (meaning I can find where more experienced people have used them), I like to replace them -- outside of tuner and other signal boards. Hope this doesn't muddy the water, but bottom line is, put the part number you find on the SM parts list into AK search and see if a substitute has been discussed. If not, put it in Google search with the word "equivalent" and dig through the results. Or....just leave them alone. :D

It doesn't muddy the water at all and is the kind of info I need but hate to ask for. Reading a lot of post on here leads me to believe that there are a lot of talented people here. I don't want to waste their time trying to constantly educate a rookie like myself. Sometimes i know in my head what I need to ask about certain components but don't know exactly how to ask with confusing the hell out it. Thanks a ton for the info Steven.
 
I have been able to answer many of my own questions (and I have lots of them), by going first to the AK search engine. Almost any question you can think of has been asked and answered before. But if I can't find it, I don't hesitate to ask. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks. Looking at the 100 tuner board it appears that the access to the bottom is mostly wide open so I was thinking that because it doesn't have to be removed I may as well order the caps for it as well. I had read here somewhere that anything GREEN should go and brown should stay. Was that referring to film caps and if so would it apply to the pict below.
 

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In general, I think that conversation was referring to the big films on the preamp and phono boards. I don't replace these smaller green ones on the tuner board, but it probably wouldn't hurt if you can figure out a match.
 
Thanks I knew I had read something about it. Gonna try to put together the BOM list in the next couple days to order so I have all the parts I need when ready. Just started the 2230 tonight and just finished the power supply. DBT tested ok so far so good. I'm sure I will have lots of questions as I get deeper into it. Thanks for the advise. Will prob start a new thread for the 2230 so will keep you posted.
 
Being a noob, I have not used screw terminal caps yet. But I see some really neat looking installations in the AK threads. You just have to put some ring terminals on the wires and you get a very tidy looking setup. I'll bet the screws come with them, but if they don't, a quick trip to Home Depot would be all it would take.
 
Original is a 55V 3000 uF. I would also assume that cap would have the screws but your right in that they are easy enough to get. Looking at the op's post it does look pretty neat.
The Nichicon is a snap in like you have probably been using. You just need to solder a ring terminal on the snap in terminals and then solder your wires to the ring terminals. And 3300uF at 63V should work. The Cornell-Dubilier is a computer grade cap. Again, I don't have enough experience to know if that makes it a good cap for audio. I assume it would be fine. But I really like the Nichicons. I KNOW they sound good.
 
The Nichicon is a snap in like you have probably been using. You just need to solder a ring terminal on the snap in terminals and then solder your wires to the ring terminals. And 3300uF at 63V should work. The Cornell-Dubilier is a computer grade cap. Again, I don't have enough experience to know if that makes it a good cap for audio. I assume it would be fine. But I really like the Nichicons. I KNOW they sound good.

I've used the ring terminals soldered to the snap in on the 2215 so I'm familiar with that part. My concern with the Nichicon was the increase in uF. I've always thought and read that for the most part it is ok to increase the Voltage a step or two but should try to keep the capitiance the same. Also note the increase in uF and Voltage for the filter caps on the 2220 rebuild as per Mburas BOM but I'm not sure if that is an exception or not.
 
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