Can someone please explain what the difference is between the 300ohm and 75ohm antennas? And what one is better? I’m lost as a goose in a snow storm...
The 300 ohm flat lead will have less loss per foot, the 75 ohm coax will be effected less by interference.
Basically you antenna will be one or the other output and then the receiver also should match. The cable used should be the one with the least amount of adapters needed.
A 75 ohm antenna then cable to a 75 ohm input. Best
A 75 ohm to 300 cable will need a adapter if going to a 300 ohm input on receiver.

Actually it is the antenna that dictates which feedline to use. A simple 1/2 wave dipole has an input impedance around 70ohms. This would match the 75ohm feedline well. However, a folded dipole, which is the type that most ribbon antennas are that were supplied with receivers, have an input impedance 4 times that of a basic dipole. 300ohm twin lead matches that well.It is not the antenna that is either 75 or 300 ohm, but the lead. A 300 ohm antenna either uses a 300 ohm lead to the receiver or connects to a balun that converts it to 75 ohms so you can use co-ax. Then at the receiver you can either use another balun to reverse back to 300 ohms or a direct 75 ohm connection if your receiver has it. if you have a 75 ohm antenna, it has a balun already built in.
To get better reception, you can try several things. Bigger antenna, directional antenna, signal booster, raise antenna height, outside antenna etc. FM is pretty much line of sight. Trees, buildings, hills etc in your way? If you are hooking the 300 ohm dipole to a 75 ohm cable, you must use a balun.Other ideas?
To avoid that loss, wherever possible I strip the coax to separate the outer braided shield (ground) wire from the center solid one, then connect them to the appropriate binding posts or terminal screws on the back of the tuner or receiver. A couple of my units don’t have the F-connector for 75-ohm anyway, but do have strain relief for coax cable.If one can get by without using a balun or splitter, that's best. Bear in mind that said items do present a bit of signal loss, sometimes in excess of 3DB.
Prior to widespread use of the infamous f-connector, this was the norm. A crappy way to "terminate" coax to the back panel. It took almost nothing to bugger up such a lame method of connection, as it was about impossible to physically secure the feedline to the rcvr/tuner. It took nothing to yank such an arrangement loose from the micro-clamp supposedly securing the cable to bulkhead. A couple of fahnstock clips wouldve been better. Easier to reconnect if pulled loose.To avoid that loss, wherever possible I strip the coax to separate the outer braided shield (ground) wire from the center solid one, then connect them to the appropriate binding posts or terminal screws on the back of the tuner or receiver. A couple of my units don’t have the F-connector for 75-ohm anyway, but do have strain relief for coax cable.
The thing is, most gear with just the screws or spring terminals were intended for 300 ohm connections, as in flat 300 ohm twin lead. This was the predominant setup way back when. If this is what one has, it's SOP to use a balun between tuner & feedline if one insists on using coax.. But-if there's an f connector, or even the ill-conceived PAL connector, just direct-connect, as those so-equipped items are set up for 75 ohm input impedance. Fwiw, some f-connector push-on couplers can be crammed onto a PAL fitting. That being the case, if it fits, do it!.To avoid that loss, wherever possible I strip the coax to separate the outer braided shield (ground) wire from the center solid one, then connect them to the appropriate binding posts or terminal screws on the back of the tuner or receiver. A couple of my units don’t have the F-connector for 75-ohm anyway, but do have strain relief for coax cable.