Adcom GFA-555 II Passes DBT But…

Hunleyj

Active Member
If both L & R speakers connected, R speaker has a hum and fairly distorted sound, L speaker has a only a little distortion and alternates between low and medium volume, about 1 second at each level, continuously. Like a slow motion sine wave.
If only L connected, sound is crystal clear.
If only R connected, hum and distortion.

I’d previously replaced some diodes and transistors on the input board because L channel was dead when I bought this. It seems I have a problem with R channel now. Any suggestions on where to start looking, or what could be wrong on channel R that causes channel L to slowly oscillate?
 
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Update: I just tested all R channel transistors and diodes on the input board by removing them, and tested all resistors and capacitors in-circuit. Can’t test IC151 (unless someone knows a way?) so will try the outputs now.
 
1. Do you have it in stereo mode, or mono mode?
2. The IC is for offset correction. They very rarely go bad, so I might be inclined to look elsewhere. You can also test by swapping the ICs.
3. What is the frequency of the oscillation? Does it sound like 60 or 120 cycle hum?
4. Have you replaced any electrolytic caps on the input board, or the bypass caps on the output modules?
5. Did you identify the bad component(s) on the L channel, or did you shotgun it and replace a bunch of parts?
 
1. Do you have it in stereo mode, or mono mode?
2. The IC is for offset correction. They very rarely go bad, so I might be inclined to look elsewhere. You can also test by swapping the ICs.
3. What is the frequency of the oscillation? Does it sound like 60 or 120 cycle hum?
4. Have you replaced any electrolytic caps on the input board, or the bypass caps on the output modules?
5. Did you identify the bad component(s) on the L channel, or did you shotgun it and replace a bunch of parts?

Thanks for the questions! Answers below. BTW, just removed each of the eight TO-3 transistors on R channel and tested them. They are okay. There are only the black transistors at the bottom of each board, that seem to have another transistor connected to their back on other side of heatsink wall. I will try testing those as well once I figure out the best way to remove them.

1) It’s in stereo mode
2) Thank you!
3) The volume oscillation is only on L, and only when R speakers are also connected. It sounds like someone is turning the volume knob between 2 and 4, then back again, continuously, about 1 sec at each level. The hum is in R channel, and it sounds more like 60Hz than 120Hz.
4) No. I replaced one mica capacitor at C155 on R channel because it looked like it was leaking (see pic).
5) I identified the components that were bad (w/ help from my pal Ray G), and replaced them.
 

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1. Do you have it in stereo mode, or mono mode?
2. The IC is for offset correction. They very rarely go bad, so I might be inclined to look elsewhere. You can also test by swapping the ICs.
3. What is the frequency of the oscillation? Does it sound like 60 or 120 cycle hum?
4. Have you replaced any electrolytic caps on the input board, or the bypass caps on the output modules?
5. Did you identify the bad component(s) on the L channel, or did you shotgun it and replace a bunch of parts?

Oh, I just noticed that the input board on R side has one A1380 and one A1381 while L side has two A1380. Could this be a problem? The spec sheets look close, but not exact matches.
 
Caveat:
I've built a lot of tube amps and other gear, completely rebuilt several solid state amps, and repaired about 10 solid state amps, a whole bunch of preamps, and other gear over the years, but I'm not an EE or a professional. However, I've rebuilt 5 GFA 555 II models and a 585 LE, and have spent a lot of time working on these amps. Hopefully someone else will come up with good ideas as well, since I haven't seen this problem before.

More questions:

1. Have you checked bias?
2. Have you checked DC offset? I previously said the op amp DC servo would not likely be a failure item, but if something else is amiss, it could be trying to handle large amounts of DC offset, which would likely originate on the input board (more below).
3. Does it immediately show this failure mode when started from cold?
4. Have you tried any cold spray on any of the input board components?

If it were me, I'd focus on the input board and the power supply first. I would not suspect the output transistors, but more likely something on the input board, and to a smaller extent, the bypass caps on the output modules, but I doubt that. It could also be the main filter caps perhaps - did you have the means to test them? They are usually good, but not always! The interaction between having L and R channels connected makes me suspect either something in the main power supply, or perhaps the VAS section on the input board. I also doubt it is the drivers on the output modules, but you could carefully desolder the legs from the posts and check - they are easy to access if the modules are unbolted.

In fact, your photo shows the typical board scorching caused by the VAS transistors getting too hot, They should be elevated higher on their leads, and the current approach is to fit them with good heat sinks.

That mica crust is interesting - haven't seen that before. They are dry caps, not polarized, no electrolyte, so it looks like some other form of electrolysis has occurred, potentially from the adjacent electrolytic cap if it has leaked into the board, or perhaps the high heat of the adjacent transistor has caused some reaction with the mica cap. Sometimes people spill liquid into the amp through the slots, but I think you'd not see this crust on just the single leg of that mica cap - it would be spread around.

It is best with these boards, if you are trying to keep them, to replace all electrolytic caps, and install new VAS transistors, elevated up more from the board, and with good heat sinks. You might want to replace all of the input board transistors with new substitutes, but if you intend to replace the differential pair because they don't test good or very close to each other, you should buy matched pairs from someone (see below).

If the caps have leaked to the board, something that was more common with the 565 and 585 than this model, you may not be able to ever clean the board properly, particularly if it has suffered the kind of heat damage yours has. The electrolyte seeps through the board fibers to other parts of the circuit and causes many issues (though not typically the pulsing volume you note).

A great resource for replacement boards, if you choose to go that route, is Chris Hoppe - hoppesbrain.com. You can also read his blog posts and look at his detailed photos to get more helpful info. I've used several of his input boards and 2 power supplies and they are excellent. They can transform this into a truly excellent sounding amplifier that compete with my Mark Levinson, Sony TAN-ES80, Nakamichi PA7II, and other higher-quality vintage amps I have.

Last comment: I haven't seen those output transistors on any Adcom GFA 555 or 555 II before. I wonder if they were replaced by someone else at some time in the past.

Here's one I just rebuilt using one of Chris' new power supplies, some really big filter caps, and a new input board. The performance is several steps above the stock amplifier and sounds truly excellent. You may not want to spend the cash to go this far, so just focus on the likely cause of the type of problem you are noticing.

DSCN7330a.jpg
 
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Oh, I just noticed that the input board on R side has one A1380 and one A1381 while L side has two A1380. Could this be a problem? The spec sheets look close, but not exact matches.

Yes, that could pose a problem. The correct replacement for the original 2SA1210 is KSA1381, and KSC3503 for the 2SC2912. Perhaps someone has worked on this amp before?
 
Here's what an original, untouched board looks like. This is a later version made in Japan. It uses some different caps than the original US made version, but the circuit is the same. This board functioned normally, but I chose to replace it with a bare Hoppe board that I populated, because it incorporates many improvements that result in cooler operation, lower offset, lower noise and distortion, and added bypass capacitance.

DSCN5262.JPG
 
Yes, that could pose a problem. The correct replacement for the original 2SA1210 is KSA1381, and KSC3503 for the 2SC2912. Perhaps someone has worked on this amp before?
Yes, you must be right. I bought it at an estate sale. Thank you for the replacements, I will give those a try!
 
In your first picture there’s what looks like a ground wire that isn’t connected, is that still hanging free? Lack of ground reference can cause all sorts of issues.
 
Caveat:
I've built a lot of tube amps and other gear, completely rebuilt several solid state amps, and repaired about 10 solid state amps, a whole bunch of preamps, and other gear over the years, but I'm not an EE or a professional. However, I've rebuilt 5 GFA 555 II models and a 585 LE, and have spent a lot of time working on these amps. Hopefully someone else will come up with good ideas as well, since I haven't seen this problem before.

More questions:

1. Have you checked bias?
2. Have you checked DC offset? I previously said the op amp DC servo would not likely be a failure item, but if something else is amiss, it could be trying to handle large amounts of DC offset, which would likely originate on the input board (more below).
3. Does it immediately show this failure mode when started from cold?
4. Have you tried any cold spray on any of the input board components?

If it were me, I'd focus on the input board and the power supply first. I would not suspect the output transistors, but more likely something on the input board, and to a smaller extent, the bypass caps on the output modules, but I doubt that. It could also be the main filter caps perhaps - did you have the means to test them? They are usually good, but not always! The interaction between having L and R channels connected makes me suspect either something in the main power supply, or perhaps the VAS section on the input board. I also doubt it is the drivers on the output modules, but you could carefully desolder the legs from the posts and check - they are easy to access if the modules are unbolted.

In fact, your photo shows the typical board scorching caused by the VAS transistors getting too hot, They should be elevated higher on their leads, and the current approach is to fit them with good heat sinks.

That mica crust is interesting - haven't seen that before. They are dry caps, not polarized, no electrolyte, so it looks like some other form of electrolysis has occurred, potentially from the adjacent electrolytic cap if it has leaked into the board, or perhaps the high heat of the adjacent transistor has caused some reaction with the mica cap. Sometimes people spill liquid into the amp through the slots, but I think you'd not see this crust on just the single leg of that mica cap - it would be spread around.

It is best with these boards, if you are trying to keep them, to replace all electrolytic caps, and install new VAS transistors, elevated up more from the board, and with good heat sinks. You might want to replace all of the input board transistors with new substitutes, but if you intend to replace the differential pair because they don't test good or very close to each other, you should buy matched pairs from someone (see below).

If the caps have leaked to the board, something that was more common with the 565 and 585 than this model, you may not be able to ever clean the board properly, particularly if it has suffered the kind of heat damage yours has. The electrolyte seeps through the board fibers to other parts of the circuit and causes many issues (though not typically the pulsing volume you note).

A great resource for replacement boards, if you choose to go that route, is Chris Hoppe - hoppesbrain.com. You can also read his blog posts and look at his detailed photos to get more helpful info. I've used several of his input boards and 2 power supplies and they are excellent. They can transform this into a truly excellent sounding amplifier that compete with my Mark Levinson, Sony TAN-ES80, Nakamichi PA7II, and other higher-quality vintage amps I have.

Last comment: I haven't seen those output transistors on any Adcom GFA 555 or 555 II before. I wonder if they were replaced by someone else at some time in the past.

Here's one I just rebuilt using one of Chris' new power supplies, some really big filter caps, and a new input board. The performance is several steps above the stock amplifier and sounds truly excellent. You may not want to spend the cash to go this far, so just focus on the likely cause of the type of problem you are noticing.

View attachment 2783076

Hi, the answers to 1,2 and 4 are no. #3 is yes. I’ll take those measurements though, and post back here when done. I’m really intrigued by the info you shared on Chris Hoppe - will be checking that out later tonight! Also, when you note you haven’t seen the output transistors before, are you referring to the ADC D42?
 
In your first picture there’s what looks like a ground wire that isn’t connected, is that still hanging free? Lack of ground reference can cause all sorts of issues.

Well spotted! I saved the image and enlarged it, and see that neither of the signal wires is soldered to the input jack.

@Hunleyj - were these connected when you observed the problem?
 
In your first picture there’s what looks like a ground wire that isn’t connected, is that still hanging free? Lack of ground reference can cause all sorts of issues.
Hi, yes, I disconnected that so I could pull the heatsink further away from the chassis. It’s tough to reach the outputs without doing so. The problem occurred before I had disconnected that wire. Good catch though - it’s something I could definitely be guilty of!
 
Also, when you note you haven’t seen the output transistors before, are you referring to the ADC D42?

I haven't seen them used in this amplifier before, unless they were a substitute for the specified 2SD424 used in all but the later Japanese-made versions, as far as I know.
 
Well spotted! I saved the image and enlarged it, and see that neither of the signal wires is soldered to the input jack.

@Hunleyj - were these connected when you observed the problem?
Hi @GKTAUDIO, yes, those wires were connected when I observed the problem. I disconnected them because I needed to inspect that board and it’s frustratingly placed otherwise! ;)
 
Sometimes it's easier to just unscrew the output modules and also the input board support structure from the chassis and pull everything out toward the rear - there is plenty of wire length to help you angle the input board assembly without unscrewing it from the support, or having to desolder the input wires.

Here is sort of an example - the left output module hasn't been installed at this point.

Be careful if you do this! You will have the drivers and pins close to the chassis and the input board support structure. Insulating material is recommended so you don't have any shorts.

DSCN7214a.jpg
 
Yes, that could pose a problem. The correct replacement for the original 2SA1210 is KSA1381, and KSC3503 for the 2SC2912. Perhaps someone has worked on this amp before?

You are definitely right, I noticed this amp has 3502s so maybe it was worked on awhile ago, before those became unavailable.
 
Sometimes it's easier to just unscrew the output modules and also the input board support structure from the chassis and pull everything out toward the rear - there is plenty of wire length to help you angle the input board assembly without unscrewing it from the support, or having to desolder the input wires.

Here is sort of an example - the left output module hasn't been installed at this point.

Be careful if you do this! You will have the drivers and pins close to the chassis and the input board support structure. Insulating material is recommended so you don't have any shorts.

View attachment 2783118
Oh, my amp is organized very differently than yours. My input board is attached differently, and my wires seem shorter in a lot of places. The wires at the base of the input board, for example, would keep me from pulling it out unless I disconnected them. I thought I’d rather just detach the 4 wires up front :)

B0A2A6ED-7D62-488D-A574-6DC278C1D34F.jpeg
 
OK, here are the correct devices for the input board:

2SC2240 - KSC1845
2SA1016 - KSA992
2SA1210 - KSA1381
2SC2912 - KSC3503

Suggest you check the driver types on the output modules since you are dealing with a non-stock unit that was apparently not worked on properly.
 
OK, here are the correct devices for the input board:

2SC2240 - KSC1845
2SA1016 - KSA992
2SA1210 - KSA1381
2SC2912 - KSC3503

Suggest you check the driver types on the output modules since you are dealing with a non-stock unit that was apparently not worked on properly.
Awesome - I’m pretty sure I have some/all these handy from when I was working on an old Sansui. Thank you!!!
 
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