advice on adding a fuse, or something, to protect a set of speakers?

View attachment 999741 Porklion I was going to pull this for you and take a pic, but it's apparently glued down? The two flat head screws are the binding posts on the other side. I pulled the nuts off and could not get it to move. I was told these are early 810's and they upgraded them in later years.
This is why I try to avoid glue at all cost, and when I have to, I try to use something that stays soft and can be cut with a razor.
It's hardly worth the risk to go prying on the thing. Putting the fuse inline with the tweeter and midrange's jumper wires between the crossover and the driver is becoming more pragmatic by the minute.
 
Don't worry guys i'm not cranking them to death, this Yamaha supposedly has some fire power and I have to respect that. And I like my Ads's with this amp ,more clean power better sound. Found that out with my Polk Sda's, so I figured I'd try it again, and it works. I appreciate all suggestions, and ideas/ thoughts, I am a novice, seeking advice, that's why i'm hear. I have not had any bad advice here yet. I had hooked up some speakers to an underpowered receiver and it didn't sound good, didn't want to push the issue and changed speakers that match that receiver better. So I know underpowered / clipping = not good, I my case. But this Yamaha is a beast, I could hook up some Cerwins and knock the house down, but that's not the point, I like the Ads sound.
It wouldn't take long reading through the forum titles to see that ADS is the most universally beloved manufacturer among speaker aficionados at AK.
Not to mention, chicks dig 'em.

Helena-Bonham-Carter-Nude-Hugging-L-780.gif
 
Last edited:
Crown use to publish in their owners manuals charts for appropriate fuses for a given power level for a given impedance. They also had drawings of early protection circuits you could build. We installed discos all over Mexico and the Southwest of the US, and I never lost a driver using Crowns recommendations and circuits. When Mcintosh developed amps with Power Guard we were able to increase the amount of power per driver when bi-amping or tri-amping without driver failure from 50 to 100% over just fuses alone, or using unprotected amps with peak limiters or RMS compression. But you have to understand the specifications of the speaker. If it is pre digital in design the peak to average signal handling capacity of a speaker was normally 6 db. Meaning your speakers could handle 200 watts published specs. But only 50 watts continuous. Now music is not continuous noise, but does have peaks. When disco came along synthesizers became very prominent in the recording industry. They can generate a lot of high frequency content not found with acoustical instruments, forcing manufacturers of speakers to increase the HF capabilities of their speakers. When CD's arrived in 83, with their increased peak capability and larger Dynamic range, speakers had to be further strengthened. So with that all in mind your speakers are fairly efficient at 94 db at 2.8 volts which is a bit over 1 watt with your 6 ohm impedance. So I doubt you'll be using more than 20 watts for the midrange and 50 watts for the bass if your an average listener for peaks.

I would have looked for a pre-owned Mcintosh Power Amp with Power Guard which prevents clipping, and restricts the power of the amp to about 25% over rated power and to less than 2% distortion for peaks. So, a 2125, 2155, or 7150 would have been my choices. To save money a 754, 2120, 2150 or a 7100 with out the meters. Now as long as the Power guard is only activated for short periods, fractions of a second , a few times hourly your speakers will be very safe. You won't hear any distortion and your speakers will be protected. Drive the amp to where the Power Guard lamps flash more than 20 % of the time your speakers may not totally fail but will suffer. I Have seen B&O, braun, ADS speakers destroyed in a flash being over driven by Crown, Yamaha, Marantz and Mcintosh amps with out protection of Power Guard circuits. So be careful. And remember its better have to much power you will never use than to have to little with the possibility of high distortion reaching your speakers and causing the drivers to fail.

Crown also use to publish their versions of Murphys Law. You know what will not go wrong will sort of thing. And one of their Laws was to the effect output transistors blow first to protect speaker fuses. So tread with caution. At the first instance you think you hear the slight change in upper frequency characteristics turn the volume down and let the voice coils cool. I would recommend at least an hour.
 
Excellent posting twiii. This is the one reason why I might be forced to upgrade my trusty Polk Monitor 10B's as fantastic as they sound they are still a pre-digital late 1970's design. I notice they occasionally have problems handling the dynamic range of a Bluray movie or the high dynamic range digital recordings from labels like Telarc. The addition of a subwoofer has really helped so eveything from 80Hz down goes to the subwoofer it acts as a buffer as much as anything. These are the settings for the Onkyo I could not go any lower then 80Hz, I would have preferred 60Hz or so. I have not setup things with the Yamaha yet.
 
Last edited:
Clipping is what kills speakers and that happens far more often using a low powered amp verses a high powered one. Besides, fuses or polyswitches in speakers are not fool proof and basically get in the way. Bottom line, you don't want either.

Fools are actually quite ingenious.
 
Fools??? I will match my $1000's of dollars of instrumentation in my ham shack to any one. I am done with these threads.

What or whom exactly are you responding to and regarding what?

Boiled down; whatever you put in place to prevent speaker damage, someone will find a way to defeat it.
 
Or just post links to a bunch of threads where that topic was already flogged to death here... didn't Ken Kantor square off on this at some point?

John
 
Yeah,it keeps it from having that "OH-CRAP-I-BLOWED-MY-TWEETER!" sound.
Going to climb in here a little late but I might get a few answers to unasked questions.
I have for 40 years now enjoyed My McIntosh XR5's.
At first I ran em on a phase linear 200 amp with the matching preamp (sold it off). Sourced with a Dual 601 Shure v15. maybe a year or so after buying them I blew out one of the Isoplanar mids,s which provide a high range of frequencies. I send it back to Mc and they replace it under warranty. Did again another time. Replaced it too.
These are protected by a 1.25 amp fuse which never blew. Being cautious I refrained from over powering. These have a yellow warning light on em and a red you-just-blue-a-fuse light.
Surround sound came out and i parked the Phase linear stuff. Pioneer vsx9500 was in place now and guess what? I blew the darn mids again. Couple times and was paying for them now.
McIntosh warned me they were no longer making them so I ordered two more. Which got clipped over the years.
I changed the fuse to a 1 amp. No longer blowing speakers but do keep plenty of fuses around. Getting older helps too.
So two ?s I have two of these blown mids. Can they be repaired?
And why were these speakers going out? Poor design? Rating of speakers were above my amps. They sounded fine in fact great. No distortion.
I'm confused except that fuses are cheaper than speakers.
 
Going to climb in here a little late but I might get a few answers to unasked questions.
I have for 40 years now enjoyed My McIntosh XR5's.
At first I ran em on a phase linear 200 amp with the matching preamp (sold it off). Sourced with a Dual 601 Shure v15. maybe a year or so after buying them I blew out one of the Isoplanar mids,s which provide a high range of frequencies. I send it back to Mc and they replace it under warranty. Did again another time. Replaced it too.
These are protected by a 1.25 amp fuse which never blew. Being cautious I refrained from over powering. These have a yellow warning light on em and a red you-just-blue-a-fuse light.
Surround sound came out and i parked the Phase linear stuff. Pioneer vsx9500 was in place now and guess what? I blew the darn mids again. Couple times and was paying for them now.
McIntosh warned me they were no longer making them so I ordered two more. Which got clipped over the years.
I changed the fuse to a 1 amp. No longer blowing speakers but do keep plenty of fuses around. Getting older helps too.
So two ?s I have two of these blown mids. Can they be repaired?
And why were these speakers going out? Poor design? Rating of speakers were above my amps. They sounded fine in fact great. No distortion.
I'm confused except that fuses are cheaper than speakers.
I know nothing of your particular model, so I can't provide any anecdotal evidence, but I'd assume that someone in the design phase made a mistake. The driver itself is flawed, the crossover point is too low or the fuse rating is too high. Fortunately, you had the patience to figure out your fuse solution, but if you're blowing fuses on a regular basis, that's not a way to live either.
 
Crown use to publish in their owners manuals charts for appropriate fuses for a given power level for a given impedance. They also had drawings of early protection circuits you could build. We installed discos all over Mexico and the Southwest of the US, and I never lost a driver using Crowns recommendations and circuits. When Mcintosh developed amps with Power Guard we were able to increase the amount of power per driver when bi-amping or tri-amping without driver failure from 50 to 100% over just fuses alone, or using unprotected amps with peak limiters or RMS compression. But you have to understand the specifications of the speaker. If it is pre digital in design the peak to average signal handling capacity of a speaker was normally 6 db. Meaning your speakers could handle 200 watts published specs. But only 50 watts continuous. Now music is not continuous noise, but does have peaks. When disco came along synthesizers became very prominent in the recording industry. They can generate a lot of high frequency content not found with acoustical instruments, forcing manufacturers of speakers to increase the HF capabilities of their speakers. When CD's arrived in 83, with their increased peak capability and larger Dynamic range, speakers had to be further strengthened. So with that all in mind your speakers are fairly efficient at 94 db at 2.8 volts which is a bit over 1 watt with your 6 ohm impedance. So I doubt you'll be using more than 20 watts for the midrange and 50 watts for the bass if your an average listener for peaks.

I would have looked for a pre-owned Mcintosh Power Amp with Power Guard which prevents clipping, and restricts the power of the amp to about 25% over rated power and to less than 2% distortion for peaks. So, a 2125, 2155, or 7150 would have been my choices. To save money a 754, 2120, 2150 or a 7100 with out the meters. Now as long as the Power guard is only activated for short periods, fractions of a second , a few times hourly your speakers will be very safe. You won't hear any distortion and your speakers will be protected. Drive the amp to where the Power Guard lamps flash more than 20 % of the time your speakers may not totally fail but will suffer. I Have seen B&O, braun, ADS speakers destroyed in a flash being over driven by Crown, Yamaha, Marantz and Mcintosh amps with out protection of Power Guard circuits. So be careful. And remember its better have to much power you will never use than to have to little with the possibility of high distortion reaching your speakers and causing the drivers to fail.

Crown also use to publish their versions of Murphys Law. You know what will not go wrong will sort of thing. And one of their Laws was to the effect output transistors blow first to protect speaker fuses. So tread with caution. At the first instance you think you hear the slight change in upper frequency characteristics turn the volume down and let the voice coils cool. I would recommend at least an hour.
This is another good thing about ADS speakers, they were designed to be TRULY digital ready. I use 1.5 amp fuses on my L1290-2.
 
Can an inline fuse affect the sound of speakers? I have always wondered about that also.
It shouldn't because the fuse wire although being thin, is only 1 inch long (or less for a 5mmx20mm). You're using an amp that provides 330w @ 4 Ohms and 4 Ohm speakers. That's 9.1 Amps Max. I just measured a 2a fast blo and it's 0.2 Ohms. So, I squared x R = 9.1x9.1 X0.2=16.5 watts MAX at full RMS power. This may seem high but 330w - 16.5w = 313.5W. Power Gain in dB is 10 x Log x Gain (or loss in this case). 313.5/330=0.95 Log x10 = -0.22 dB, which is very small. Again, this is worst case. So I wouldn't worry about 1 inch of thin wire making much difference.
 
Feel free to revive the dead horse
This is another good thing about ADS speakers, they were designed to be TRULY digital ready. I use 1.5 amp fuses on my L1290-2.
Ya know I think you are the second post here that has a mention of audio being either digital or analogue. Seems a audio sound wave can have signatures particular to digital or analogue?? And speakers can be designed around this?? Is this something that can be seen on a oscilloscope?
Input signals I can see. Processing, amplifying yes yes, but once the sound recorded go's thru these stages and are reproduced/amplified it is supposed to be a likeness. All we are doing is advancing frequencies in both cases. How does a speaker prepare for one or the other?
 
Back
Top Bottom