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Akai 2800 - A keeper but could do with help to fix it !

jheu02 said:
when I could get "good enough" stuff local.
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that's part of the difference i speak of. i've worked for people that bought solvents because they were "good enough" but they never out perform the proper solvent. not so much an issue with a few percent in some alcohol cleaning a pcb but that few percent can make a huge difference in a paint job that is guaranteed for "life."

it's just how i roll:dunno:

not trying to argue with you, just stating my view on it.
 
Guys thanks for you comments above .The thing would be so easy If I was still living in England , Easy to get product !
Here in Italy tho its the opposite I had to order deoxit from Germany with shipping almost 40euro and Isopropyl 99.9 % also from Germany .
Mouser is shipped from someplace in Europe take 5 of 6 days . Cant get solder with lead it banned ! Here you can get nothing local . Also ordered electrolytic caps from England .
When I have a min I will share/list them (see what you think? )

Slow going at the mo I have a cold .

This is my true experience
In Italy there is no charity shops ,goodwill ,second hand stores or thrift stores , People throw things away or try to sell for an expensive price on websites .
When I was looking for an amp about 2 years ago ,They all start at about 100 euro nothing really below this .So I found a Yamaha a500 on Facebook market palace .
Guy said it was perfect and all original , when i got it it was not ! ,For me I was a 50 50 gamble buying in the first place you never know .
when i got it had to order the deoxit to clean all switches and pot , then it worked better .
Thought i would have a look inside when i did there were some new components and the work that had been done was very messy My hart sank a bit .Ok said I .
I will take it to the local guy who fixes hifi and radio gear see what he thinks , Gave him a call and took the amp to his shop .
When I entered the shop there was this old guy probable in his 80s he came over . I said I had called earlier and here I am .
The guy took a quick look inside the amp and started to get mad ,throwing few tool about and saying he had too much work to do . Then he said take your amp and go
you will have to find another repair shop !
I walked out thinking ,What just happened !!!..Got home told the wife she called the shop and spoke to the son who we spoke to in the first place . He said my Dad got angry because he thought I had changed components in the amp , I said I had not and just wanted it checking , the son said not to buy from the internet and to buy from some place you can get a receipt ,so if you need to take it back you have a grantee.

I thought what !!! This is not my style at all ! . Then I found the Akai 2800, Right I thought now that looks like a Project! And here I am .
 
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Thanks John that is so kind ! My wife is from Rome and we live near Grosseto its about 2.5 hours north of Roma .
May take you up on the offer . I went to England few weeks ago and did get about 6ft of solder but its going fast !
If you need any info on Rome, I can ask my wife .

Did have a good look at the bottom of the pcb was very hairy ! going to stop using the cotton .
 
lol101 said:
Thanks John that is so kind ! My wife is from Rome and we live near Grosseto its about 2.5 hours north of Roma .
May take you up on the offer . I went to England few weeks ago and did get about 6ft of solder but its going fast !
If you need any info on Rome, I can ask my wife .

Did have a good look at the bottom of the pcb was very hairy ! going to stop using the cotton .
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here's motivation for you. just wrapping up my am2600

sx3900 and akai am2600 088.jpg
 
Wow that's Fantastic !and very clean . I just de solder the mute switch pins removed the 2x screw at the front was thinking it would just pull out , but looks like i need to loosen the tone board to get it out . Have you removed any switches ?

All the best .
 
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painttoad said:
a few but i do not take them apart if i can get them clean with multiple flushes.
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Ah ok ! Thank you for that ! So I will put the 2x screws back in for now . Flush it out a good few times with Isorpopyl and put the ohms meter on it and see how it sounds ( the noise of the switch ). If all seems ok will finish with bit of deoxit .?
 
lol101 said:
Ah ok ! Thank you for that ! So I will put the 2x screws back in for now . Flush it out a good few times with Isorpopyl and put the ohms meter on it and see how it sounds . If all seems ok will finish with bit of deoxit .?
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i flush with deoxit d5 or f5 a couple times then flush with crc cleaner a few times ( blow dry) then hit it with a single shot of d100 or f100
 
painttoad said:
i flush with deoxit d5 or f5 a couple times then flush with crc cleaner a few times ( blow dry) then hit it with a single shot of d100 or f100
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crc? what type just looking on amazon now ? d100 is about 50 euro Wow !
 
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spray.png
Closest I can find !
hahahaha I have no idea what it says .better stick to the D5 .
 
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If you do need to open the Muting Switch or other "lever" switches, here's what they look like and how to do it post #6. I was "scolded" for also using well worn 2000grit sandpaper, but have not experienced any issues with the switches since. YMMV, but you should be able to get it clean enough with the eraser. Just make careful note of the lever position when you open it and where the "sliders" are located with the lever in that position for reassembly.

SA-9500II Restoration

My latest amp project is this SA-9500II that I came across along with a TX-9500II (already finished). Both pieces came fully functioning and in nice cosmetic condition. So, this is mainly a preventative maintenance restoration. Recapping the amp, some resistors since I have them in MF, new...
audiokarma.org
 
jheu02 said:
If you do need to open the Muting Switch or other "lever" switches, here's what they look like and how to do it post #6. I was "scolded" for also using well worn 2000grit sandpaper, but have not experienced any issues with the switches since. YMMV, but you should be able to get it clean enough with the eraser. Just make careful note of the lever position when you open it and where the "sliders" are located with the lever in that position for reassembly.
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Yes that is very clear indeed !
 
If you have an auto-parts store near you, you may be able to find the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner like toad posted. It specifically states "safe for plastics." The one you posted is similar to this from the CRC website, just looks like different packaging. Also safe for plastics, but with a lower flash point.

www.crcindustries.com

CRC® Food Grade Contact Cleaner, 11 wt oz

Suitable for cleaning sensitive electronics and electrical equipment without leaving a residue. Evaporates quickly, leaves no residue and is safe to use on all plastics. Use where lower flashpoint cleaners are acceptable. NSF P1 Registered.
www.crcindustries.com www.crcindustries.com
 
jheu02 said:
well worn 2000grit sandpaper,
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something not realized by most people is that worn out sandpaper is not finer, it's actually coarser.

if a visual is needed, what happens when pencil "lead' wears down. the result is not a finer line.
 
I didn't examine it under a microscope, but whereas a new sheet of 2000 grit has a dull appearance, this was shiny, so I felt fine using it. I don't need to defend what I used. It did the job, it has held up fine, and I'd use it again if needed, yada yada.
 
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