PabloTincho
Super Member
Do you also have the Preamp, is it that good ?
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AkitikA GT-102 Z4 Power Amp Kit Build
- Thread starter NeilBEN
- Start date
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
I don't have the AkitikA PR-102, but I know someone who does have it - Randy the Cheap Audio Man on YouTube - and it is equally as good as the amp. It is quite flexible and has several interesting options, including a remote. You can look up both his reviews.
PabloTincho
Super Member
Is the amp powerful enough ? or sometimes needs more power ?
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
I have 4 ohm speakers, with 3.1 ohm minimum, and they are fairly sensitive - somewhere between 90 and 92dB, and the GT-140 Z4 is barely getting above room temperature. I listen usually with peaks around 85-86 dB SPL, but sometimes in the low 90's.
The dynamics of this amp are astounding. Both bass and midrange are significantly better than my Schiit Vidar. Bass extension is better than any amp I have ever heard.
Instrument separation is a big step up from the Vidar, as well. And as good or better on this compared to my B&K ST-140. The one and only area that the ST-140 is better is with the last bit of high frequency subtly on very quiet recordings.
The GT-102 Z4 is better than the best aspects of the other two amps combined. So, overall it is on another level. Both the other amps are rated at 100 watts/ch. And the Vidar doubles that into 4 ohms.
If you try it and it lacks the power you want/need, then if you get a second one, it is easy to use them as monoblocks in a parallel mode - you get 100 watts per speaker. For only a $100 more than a Vidar (if you build them).
The dynamics of this amp are astounding. Both bass and midrange are significantly better than my Schiit Vidar. Bass extension is better than any amp I have ever heard.
Instrument separation is a big step up from the Vidar, as well. And as good or better on this compared to my B&K ST-140. The one and only area that the ST-140 is better is with the last bit of high frequency subtly on very quiet recordings.
The GT-102 Z4 is better than the best aspects of the other two amps combined. So, overall it is on another level. Both the other amps are rated at 100 watts/ch. And the Vidar doubles that into 4 ohms.
If you try it and it lacks the power you want/need, then if you get a second one, it is easy to use them as monoblocks in a parallel mode - you get 100 watts per speaker. For only a $100 more than a Vidar (if you build them).
PabloTincho
Super Member
What preamp are you using with the Akitika ?
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
I have an Audible Illusions Modulus 3A.
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
The Aegir was on my short list, along with the AVA Vision SET 120. I also considered building an ACA, but even with two of those, my 3.1 ohm speakers would have been a challenge.
I knew my B&K ST-140 was nearing the end of its life, and that's why I got the Vidar. Then I recapped the B&K and it sounded better than it ever had. But the inevitable happened - the left channel failed. And I missed the spacious and layered soundstage. So, the $406 price and the rave reviews, from Cheap Audio Man and Stereophile won my purchase. And I didn't have to listen very long to hear the quality of the AkitikA.
Edit: this is the first I have heard of the Neurochrome chip amp. Another chip amp that had me interested, is one that GR Research has been working on.
I knew my B&K ST-140 was nearing the end of its life, and that's why I got the Vidar. Then I recapped the B&K and it sounded better than it ever had. But the inevitable happened - the left channel failed. And I missed the spacious and layered soundstage. So, the $406 price and the rave reviews, from Cheap Audio Man and Stereophile won my purchase. And I didn't have to listen very long to hear the quality of the AkitikA.
Edit: this is the first I have heard of the Neurochrome chip amp. Another chip amp that had me interested, is one that GR Research has been working on.
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Tillerman
Active Member
That aspect (heat generated by the amp) was a factor in my recent shopping, but I was able to find it in the Aegir (sort of). When I have it on, but not listening, I engage the Standby button, which mutes the amp and debiases it. The standby temperature is substantially less than when producing music. For me, this is an operational improvement compared to my prior class A amps. I am very pleased with the sound quality of the Aegir on my Klipsch Chorus speakers.
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
I should say that the AkitikA is very cool running when left on - only the lit power switch and the LEDs if you can glimpse them, show that it is on, and it has no heat to speak of.
Ok that was fun. I just finished my power supply.
I won’t pollute your thread with my build but I can’t wait to do the rest. So satisfying. I hope it sounds as good as it is fun.
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
It is a very satisfying thing to do. And please do post about your build here - the more the merrier!
I just had several hours of listening to my system - and I have to say the music is fabulous. I put on Radio Paradise, and played My Favorites - which are all the songs I have rated a 7 or higher. I have been listening to Radio Paradise for 15 or 16 years, and so that's a lotta' good songs.
I just had several hours of listening to my system - and I have to say the music is fabulous. I put on Radio Paradise, and played My Favorites - which are all the songs I have rated a 7 or higher. I have been listening to Radio Paradise for 15 or 16 years, and so that's a lotta' good songs.
Neil I have a question.
On the amplifier circuit boards, I’m installing wire. The shielded grey wire with three wires inside (drain wire, red and black). The instructions clearly state to attach the red to IN and the drain wire to the INGND spigot closest to the IN. It does not say what to do with the black wire. I figured it would attach to a harness later but in finishing the harnesses I am not seeing what to do with it.
Here’s a pic.
On edit I may have located the cause of my conundrum. In the wire preparation text at the end it states to pull the black wire out of the shield completely. I mistook this as relating to pulling the insulation off of the solid black donor wire to install onto the drain wire.
So as I understand it now the black wire gets pulled completely from the shielded wire and is unused.
On the amplifier circuit boards, I’m installing wire. The shielded grey wire with three wires inside (drain wire, red and black). The instructions clearly state to attach the red to IN and the drain wire to the INGND spigot closest to the IN. It does not say what to do with the black wire. I figured it would attach to a harness later but in finishing the harnesses I am not seeing what to do with it.
Here’s a pic.
On edit I may have located the cause of my conundrum. In the wire preparation text at the end it states to pull the black wire out of the shield completely. I mistook this as relating to pulling the insulation off of the solid black donor wire to install onto the drain wire.
So as I understand it now the black wire gets pulled completely from the shielded wire and is unused.
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NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
I had to read that section several times - it says to pull the black wire out of the cable, altogether. Which was surprising to me, but obviously Dan Joffe has gone through the alternatives, and this is the best way.
The black piece of insulation from the solid core wire, that you slide down over the drain/shield wire is the other surprise - I think that is done so it can be identified; and to insulate it where it is exposed.
The black piece of insulation from the solid core wire, that you slide down over the drain/shield wire is the other surprise - I think that is done so it can be identified; and to insulate it where it is exposed.
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Ok thank you. That was a strange bit of instruction.
BTW I averaged about 4 hours per board. Did the power supply one day and the amp boards the next, I was a bit cross eyed after an 8 hour day of installing fiddley little components.
NeilBEN
Well-Known Member
You're doing it in a bit less - or maybe the same time than I did - I think it took me about 22 hours total. I did the power supply and one audio board in about 8 hours, so that is similar. The second audio board was easier, but it still took about 4+ hours. The ground lift board is simple enough, but it does take some time.
The chassis assembly is fairly straight forward, but dressing the transformer wires, and installing the RF shield takes a bit of finagling. Leaving the transformer loose (but maybe with the bolt threaded?) until you get the RF shield is place is pretty much required.
He has specific instructions about which wires go under the RF shield through the two gaps under it. And I decided to apply the thermal paste to the chassis, rather than the bottom edges of the heat sinks, in order to avoid getting the paste in the wrong area, if you didn't place them in the right spot the first time. If you have a helper, for this it might be good - a screw can be pushed up through the hole, and then the board with the heat sink can be lowered directly onto the screw, to get the alignment right - if that makes sense?
The chassis assembly is fairly straight forward, but dressing the transformer wires, and installing the RF shield takes a bit of finagling. Leaving the transformer loose (but maybe with the bolt threaded?) until you get the RF shield is place is pretty much required.
He has specific instructions about which wires go under the RF shield through the two gaps under it. And I decided to apply the thermal paste to the chassis, rather than the bottom edges of the heat sinks, in order to avoid getting the paste in the wrong area, if you didn't place them in the right spot the first time. If you have a helper, for this it might be good - a screw can be pushed up through the hole, and then the board with the heat sink can be lowered directly onto the screw, to get the alignment right - if that makes sense?
Yes it does thanks. I’ll give that a bit of thought.
