My Altec Flamencos have been in storage for at least two years and I recently got them out. When I hooked them up one of the horns was dead and if it's making any sound at all I can't tell. I took the back off, took the wires off of the horn and it's reading 41 ohms. Anybody know what might be going on here.
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Altec Lansing 806A High Ohms
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bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
Hopefully, just a crusty connection.
There are two jumper wires under the driver cover with mechanical connections on each end of them, start there.
Hopefully, you are aware of the magnetic strength near the gap, and the caution necessary.
All of the contact points look clean but I loosened them up and turned them a little bit. It now reads open even before I loosened them up. Here's a picture and everything looks ok to me but it does have a very small dimple on the diaphragm. The lead on the right has a small amount of the varnish looking stuff trying to flake off. The magnetic pull isn't anywhere near as strong as I thought it would be.
I've been doing some reading and it seems that a lot of the leads break where the bend is. I'm going to take the cap back off of mine and see if there is a break that I didn't see before. If there is a break I'll probably try and fix it myself but I don't hold out much hope for a successful surgery. If I don't fix it successfully which aftermarket diaphragms would be the best. I see the GPA doesn't have any in stock but since they were so expensive I don't know if I'd buy them anyway.
Nyjblbob
Hooked on Horn's and Tubes. Go big or go home
By a country mile go with the Radians.
I've been using them for almost 30 yrs, in Altecs.
,Better Mids, Smoother, with slightly less tizzies.
If your using low power, Remove the loading cap,
line the back cover with thick felt.
A JBL thing where we remove cover,
In some cases with the Cherished Red wax seals!
and safely remove the foam that dries and breaks up.
and gets all over the diafragm
possibly clogging VC gap, the fix is the felt pad replacement.
I just recently tried a pair of Radians in some JBL 1" Alnico's
Just as good.
I don't know where Simply speakers sources theirs.
I did try the cheap Chi com ones, Garbage!
bobhorn
I've been using them for almost 30 yrs, in Altecs.
,Better Mids, Smoother, with slightly less tizzies.
If your using low power, Remove the loading cap,
line the back cover with thick felt.
A JBL thing where we remove cover,
In some cases with the Cherished Red wax seals!
and safely remove the foam that dries and breaks up.
and gets all over the diafragm
possibly clogging VC gap, the fix is the felt pad replacement.
I just recently tried a pair of Radians in some JBL 1" Alnico's
Just as good.
I don't know where Simply speakers sources theirs.
I did try the cheap Chi com ones, Garbage!
bobhorn
When you say remove the loading cap is that the black cap that some have covering the diaphragm? If it is mine doesn't have it. Any certain brand or thickness of felt? Just glue it to the back cover?
If I can't fix the one I have I'll give the Radian a try. Thanks for the information.
If I can't fix the one I have I'll give the Radian a try. Thanks for the information.
I can repair those. Takes a microscope, thin tip iron and thin solder.
You need to scrape the leads clean. I use a scalpel and tweezers.
It’s tricky. But it’s great to save an original diaphragm.
I have a couple cheap frams here. They look good, but one essentially has very low output and the other produces a very strange impedance curve. Both are wound with round wire. Not edgewound like stock.
No idea what brand, they were in a pair of 802-8G I got real cheap.
You need to scrape the leads clean. I use a scalpel and tweezers.
It’s tricky. But it’s great to save an original diaphragm.
I have a couple cheap frams here. They look good, but one essentially has very low output and the other produces a very strange impedance curve. Both are wound with round wire. Not edgewound like stock.
No idea what brand, they were in a pair of 802-8G I got real cheap.
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
Since you were getting some resistive continuity at first, the fault may not be easily seen with the naked eye. Some magnification might be necessary.
I still couldn't see it when I looked again but when I was able to run a small wire tie in between it, it came very apparent that it was broke.
I have never tried these. So I just bought a pair. I have been shuffling frams around between drivers.
Ill let you all know what I think
The surgery was a success. I soldered both ends together and I have it working again. This is probably more of a band-aid than anything but I've read about people repairing them the same way and they say they hold up.
@RonSSNova please make sure to let me know how you like the Radians compared to the original. I'm thinking I should go ahead and bite the bullet and buy a pair Radians because the other one in the other speaker could break at any time.
@RonSSNova please make sure to let me know how you like the Radians compared to the original. I'm thinking I should go ahead and bite the bullet and buy a pair Radians because the other one in the other speaker could break at any time.