Another 3 legged dog

Masonavenut

Masonavenut

I like old stuff
Subscriber
I know, I know. There are a bunch of restoration threads going. Feel free to ignore this one.
I have this habit of trying to save three legged dogs. To me it makes sense trying to save old neglected things and make them nice again. Not to mention the fact you can buy for much less and all it requires is labor and a little money to get them going.
The case in this point is a 400 that was on that site listed with no tubes. If you looked at it close, something was not quite right. Some maroon had drilled the faceplate and installed a switch. Well, I felt compelled to save it, challenge accepted.
I ended up getting it for not much. It’s going to take a while to finish it but I don’t care, it’s going to live again.
It arrived dirty, spiderwebby and nasty. I cleaned it up outside and baked it upside down in the sun.
First thing I did when I got it inside was rip out that friggin toggle switch. I’m going to go through every part of this deal and make it nice again, though like me it will have its scar’s.
Anyway here it is. Do hack jobs like this piss you guys off like it does me?

DBBA3749-C845-4-BC6-83-EA-27-A1-FC5490-F4.jpg


6-BFDEEBA-2-FA4-40-F9-A2-CB-F9-E5-ADD5-DCBC.jpg


826736-B7-9275-4032-8-FC8-80-EF68786-F1-F.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
Every day of the week and TWICE on Sunday's. Kee-rist he could have put an inline switch on the cord, for GAWD SAKE! That would have been infinately better than what he did. Where's that firing squad (with the MA DEUCE ) when you really need one
 
I would have never put the switch there in the first place, but I'm not sure I'd remove it and leave the hole either. Functionally its not a terrible idea, the switch in the volume control probably failed like they do, so you'll need to do something for a switch. At this point the sin has already been committed so I'd just roll with it.
 
I have located and purchased a new faceplate. Have been thinking about whether I should do the body work on the chassis to fill in the hole. I’m leaning towards not touching it as the chassis metal is very thick. I don’t see a problem with flex especially when the new faceplate is bolted on. It will be in a wood case and not move so no chance of it getting knocked around. Kinda gives it some character (yes I’m spinning) also. I should have a faceplate re lettered to say 400-3LD.
On the on/off switch front I have contacted Mark Oppat and he is sending me a new switch section to install on the present pot.
 
Last edited:
that'll work. I just hate empty holes in faceplates. I think the fact that most of them were added badly bothers me at least as much as the fact it was done at all. Holes not in a line, not de-burred, not spaced right, etc.
 
Hi guys
Been gone for a while on the beautiful island of Ireland doing some work. Got home and had all kinds of fun little packages to go through. One was the switch section for the volume/on-off pot from Mr. Oppat.
I took the pot out of the chassis as it was a boogery mess and cleaned it up. I put the control in the full off position and positioned the switch section over it and with a light press it was on and seems to be working well. That was easy.
Question for you all. The front and back halves of the pot have a solder bridge between them. Is this meant to be here and have continuity? See below.

7301-AB11-BBF3-4565-BE81-AE46-BA278087.jpg
 
Ok it’s back in and the on/off is working great.
To bad some folks won’t put out a little effort.
Now I can get on to the replacements and mods.
Those frizzy ends of the ac wires are bugging me. May have to put some shrink on them.
6766792-F-359-D-4059-8-A73-7-A49319-F8-A54.jpg


Ok I feel better:)

95767585-5459-4674-81-E5-279-C904-B0181.jpg
 
Last edited:
Electrically the solder bridge isn't needed as both sides have a separate ground wire, and the whole assy is grounded to the chassis thru the front nut. Someone probably added it as 1.) an additional ground path, and/or 2.) stabilization of the 2 1/2's to minimize wobble.

Up to you as to whether you leave it or remove it.
 
larryderouin said:
Electrically the solder bridge isn't needed as both sides have a separate ground wire, and the whole assy is grounded to the chassis thru the front nut. Someone probably added it as 1.) an additional ground path, and/or 2.) stabilization of the 2 1/2's to minimize wobble.

Up to you as to whether you leave it or remove it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom