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Any residual value to DIY speakers?
- Thread starter baco99
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pilotputz
Super Member
Hey, baco99!!
I usually sell just the bare drivers. With that said, it certainly couldn't hurt to include a photo of the cabinets and state that those would go with the auction if the buyer preferred.
If these DIYs have different makes of drivers, such as one brand of woofers and another brand of mids or tweeters, I would sell them separately as well. If they were all the same brand, I would sell them as one set.
My two cents.
Good luck!!!
I usually sell just the bare drivers. With that said, it certainly couldn't hurt to include a photo of the cabinets and state that those would go with the auction if the buyer preferred.
If these DIYs have different makes of drivers, such as one brand of woofers and another brand of mids or tweeters, I would sell them separately as well. If they were all the same brand, I would sell them as one set.
My two cents.
Good luck!!!
Tucker99
Super Member
If they are nicely made, then offer them as a complete unit...sort of a 'Why not'? kind of thing. If you liked them and had them in your home I suspect the odds are that there is a like-minded person out there with tastes similar to yours.
If they don't sell in a time-frame suitable to you, you can always break out the drivers and try again....
If they don't sell in a time-frame suitable to you, you can always break out the drivers and try again....
As we all know, custom built or DIY speakers are difficult to sell, at best. The trouble with just selling the drivers is that unless they are very well known and you have specs for them, they too may not be worth much without that information, assuming they are probably discontinued..
Not saying it's justifiable, but it is the unfortunate reality..
Good luck.
Not saying it's justifiable, but it is the unfortunate reality..
Good luck.
PioneerGuy75
Certified Lurker
Hey Tucker99 Nice old Car!! 
Ok back to topic :yes:
Ok back to topic :yes:
mykenytemare
Active Member
someone might want the whole cab...post pics 
mikebake
Well-Known Member
Depends. if you use quality high end JBL drivers, you probably never lose money on them other than the cabinet wood/labor, if that.
What drivers are you using? How much did you spend?
whoaru99
Epic Member
Any quality, name brand drivers should have some value.
Problem is, as mentioned, they have value only to someone looking for a similar driver.
I'd list the driver compliment, crossover design, any design/measurement specs and make a stab at comparing them to something that can be purchased at retail. Are they built off plans from a well-known DIY site or DIY speaker guru?
Assuming they're decent quality, why bust up a set of perfectly good speaks?
Problem is, as mentioned, they have value only to someone looking for a similar driver.
I'd list the driver compliment, crossover design, any design/measurement specs and make a stab at comparing them to something that can be purchased at retail. Are they built off plans from a well-known DIY site or DIY speaker guru?
Assuming they're decent quality, why bust up a set of perfectly good speaks?
Selling DIY Speakers
The value of the DIY is the satisfaction of the builder in completeing the project. Unless they are an exact copy of a well known name brand speaker or the components are high end, ie JBL, you wont find much demand on Ebay etc. My guess is the best place would be a garage sale, flee market etc to uneducated buyers that are unfamiliar with name brand speakers and will go on cabinet looks/sound. Look at it as a fun project and be very surprised if you ever get any financial return.
The value of the DIY is the satisfaction of the builder in completeing the project. Unless they are an exact copy of a well known name brand speaker or the components are high end, ie JBL, you wont find much demand on Ebay etc. My guess is the best place would be a garage sale, flee market etc to uneducated buyers that are unfamiliar with name brand speakers and will go on cabinet looks/sound. Look at it as a fun project and be very surprised if you ever get any financial return.
whoaru99
Epic Member
So you're saying he should look for an uneducated buyer because the speakers may not have JBL drivers?
Maybe the educated buyer might be interested in those Seas, Hiquphon, Morel, Vifa, Focal, Usher, Audax, or even Dayton drivers INSTEAD of JBL, just maybe... :scratch2:
whoaru99
Epic Member
Why don't you tell us what you have...
Tucker99
Super Member
Hey Tucker99 Nice old Car!!
Ok back to topic :yes:
Thanks PioneerGuy75
Its a '63 P1800, the first full year of production when Volvo had them manufactured in the UK under license.
Personally, I think it depends on what you've got. If it's a plain plywood box with mismatched corners and some drivers randomly stuck in there then part it out. If it's a nicely done, veneered/painted box with a lot of care taken and a good driver complement with a well designed crossover then I'd market them as "listen for yourself" or "comparable to X" on CL. Set them up in a system where a prospective buyer can hear that they do indeed sound good. If you get no takers then start parting out.
Yeah, what he said.
Ray
Yeah, what he said.
Ray
maxxgraphix
New Member
I'm new here. But my 2db is that if they are built well and sound great, then it has more value than just the parts. I really don't know jack about speaker building, but I've built and sold over $10K worth of audio systems and made a nice profit. Customers were very happy also. If what you have is tight, then ask a fair price. Most of the commercial stuff uses junk drivers anyway. It's just tuned with the right box and crossovers.
I just made a set of 4ft towers with Pyramid drivers that sound better than my Bose 401's. Of course I'm cheating since I use a Sansui G-8000 and have a CNC router in my shop.
I just made a set of 4ft towers with Pyramid drivers that sound better than my Bose 401's. Of course I'm cheating since I use a Sansui G-8000 and have a CNC router in my shop.
Thanks again for the feedback.
I have 3 pair:
The first is a tower, about 40" tall, 8" wide, and 12"/14" deep, with an angled baffle. The baffle is angled so the tweeter is "time-aligned" with the woofer. It's a traditional 2-way ported design. 1" Audax silk dome tweeter with a fluid filled core for better cooling. 6" Madisound poly cone woofer. Has very smooth frequency response down to 40Hz and can reach 30 Hz before getting dizzy. Crossover is a Madisound 18db/octave hi-pass and 12 db/octave lo-pass at 3000 Hz (IIRC). Box is 3/4" MDF with internal bracing, caulked and sealed (except the port, obviously). Finished in a gloss black (admittedly an amateurish finish). The sound is very smooth, IMO. Not too bright. Very similar to a Boston sound, but less bright at the top end. Can handle 100+ watts of "good" power at high volumes with little distortion.
The second pair is a larger bookshelf design. Very similar in profile to the first pair (my goal was to built a surround system): 24" tall, 8" wide, and 10"/12" deep with the angled baffle. This design is sealed with a resonant frequency of about 50 Hz. Box is built and finished in the same way, stuffed, and caulked. The tweeter is the same Audax 1" silk dome. The woofer is a more expensive Madisound 6" with poly cone and rubber surround. The linear throw is shorter and bass is much tighter than the first pair: rolls off right at 50 Hz and low frequencies are not very pronounced. I'm currently using them with my SA-9100 and the sound is very sweet. Midrange is crystal clear. Crossover is a more aggressive cutoff: 18 db/octave in both directions at 4k Hz. I wanted a warmer midrange sound from the woofer without stretching it too thin. Distortion is virtually non-existent as the natural cutoff/pressure of the box keeps the woofer from over extending itself.
The last is a very small bookshelf design. More traditional "box", unfinished. Small ported enclosure with a 5.25" Madisound poly/rubber woofer and Vifa 3/4" cloth done tweeter. The crossover is a bit flatter. 12 db/octave in both directions at 4k Hz. IMO, the midrange is a bit bright. Bass is impressive for the size of the box, but not "bassy." Box dimensions are 12" tall, 7" wide, and 6" deep.
Is there anything in the description that I'm missing?
I have 3 pair:
The first is a tower, about 40" tall, 8" wide, and 12"/14" deep, with an angled baffle. The baffle is angled so the tweeter is "time-aligned" with the woofer. It's a traditional 2-way ported design. 1" Audax silk dome tweeter with a fluid filled core for better cooling. 6" Madisound poly cone woofer. Has very smooth frequency response down to 40Hz and can reach 30 Hz before getting dizzy. Crossover is a Madisound 18db/octave hi-pass and 12 db/octave lo-pass at 3000 Hz (IIRC). Box is 3/4" MDF with internal bracing, caulked and sealed (except the port, obviously). Finished in a gloss black (admittedly an amateurish finish). The sound is very smooth, IMO. Not too bright. Very similar to a Boston sound, but less bright at the top end. Can handle 100+ watts of "good" power at high volumes with little distortion.
The second pair is a larger bookshelf design. Very similar in profile to the first pair (my goal was to built a surround system): 24" tall, 8" wide, and 10"/12" deep with the angled baffle. This design is sealed with a resonant frequency of about 50 Hz. Box is built and finished in the same way, stuffed, and caulked. The tweeter is the same Audax 1" silk dome. The woofer is a more expensive Madisound 6" with poly cone and rubber surround. The linear throw is shorter and bass is much tighter than the first pair: rolls off right at 50 Hz and low frequencies are not very pronounced. I'm currently using them with my SA-9100 and the sound is very sweet. Midrange is crystal clear. Crossover is a more aggressive cutoff: 18 db/octave in both directions at 4k Hz. I wanted a warmer midrange sound from the woofer without stretching it too thin. Distortion is virtually non-existent as the natural cutoff/pressure of the box keeps the woofer from over extending itself.
The last is a very small bookshelf design. More traditional "box", unfinished. Small ported enclosure with a 5.25" Madisound poly/rubber woofer and Vifa 3/4" cloth done tweeter. The crossover is a bit flatter. 12 db/octave in both directions at 4k Hz. IMO, the midrange is a bit bright. Bass is impressive for the size of the box, but not "bassy." Box dimensions are 12" tall, 7" wide, and 6" deep.
Is there anything in the description that I'm missing?
whoaru99
Epic Member
I would try to sell them as complete speakers.
Perhaps some pictures, summarize the designs, and offer them at a reasonable price - of course, reasonable is all relative.
I purchased a pair of DIY/custom 3-way monitor speakers based on the reputation of those involved in the design and construction. I paid $800 for them, so not all DIY speakers sell cheap (and there's not one JBL driver
).
$800 sounds like a lot, but when I researched the component/build list, I find that I got the finished (nicely, I might add) speakers basically for the cost of the drivers and crossovers. Yes, ~$800 in guts...Focal woofers, Morel mids, Hiquphon tweeters, and custom crossovers using high quality parts.
Included with the speakers were all the design parameters and frequency plots, etc. All this was provided in advance of the final purchase agreement.
Perhaps some pictures, summarize the designs, and offer them at a reasonable price - of course, reasonable is all relative.
I purchased a pair of DIY/custom 3-way monitor speakers based on the reputation of those involved in the design and construction. I paid $800 for them, so not all DIY speakers sell cheap (and there's not one JBL driver
).$800 sounds like a lot, but when I researched the component/build list, I find that I got the finished (nicely, I might add) speakers basically for the cost of the drivers and crossovers. Yes, ~$800 in guts...Focal woofers, Morel mids, Hiquphon tweeters, and custom crossovers using high quality parts.
Included with the speakers were all the design parameters and frequency plots, etc. All this was provided in advance of the final purchase agreement.