Any vintage tube tester experts out there?

RS Steve

RS Steve

Tube Junkie
Subscriber
I have a B&K Dyna-Quik 650 tube tester that I have been using for preamp tube testing, but not for any output tubes. None of the sockets are labeled for 7591's, KT-88's, etc. Now it does have the extra 610 test panel, but the books do not state how to test any of the major output tubes most of us use today. There are spare sockets that they say can be set up for other tube models, but I personally have no clue on how to do that.

I was hoping to find someone that knows this tester, and can determine if it would be doable or a waste of time. Also maybe show me the process if feasible. It seems like a nice tester, so I hope there is a way.

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I owned a 650 for a while, but I sold it as it was designed for use by a TV repairman and not so much for audio and radio work. I have both a BK 707 and a 747 which are my go to testers for small signal tubes and most smaller output tubes, but for testing bigger output tubes, I use a Hickok 539 B as I believe its results are more accurate and repeatable. I know that the 539 series of Hickok testers are now priced out of sight, but their smaller relative, the 600A is also a good tester and priced more realistically.
 
Big Harry said:
I owned a 650 for a while, but I sold it as it was designed for use by a TV repairman and not so much for audio and radio work. I have both a BK 707 and a 747 which are my go to testers for small signal tubes and most smaller output tubes, but for testing bigger output tubes, I use a Hickok 539 B as I believe its results are more accurate and repeatable. I know that the 539 series of Hickok testers are now priced out of sight, but their smaller relative, the 600A is also a good tester and priced more realistically.
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Ok, so using this unit for testing my smaller tubes like for preamps should be fine, I can acquire a unit that is made for the bigger output tubes and will fill the void I currently have.
 
onemug said:
I have that exact same tester, even has the optional 610 sub panel as yours. It tests the KT88, el34 el 84. Not sure where you got the info that it doesn't test these or if your deducing because it's not printed by the sockets. I see you have the owners manual, do you have the tube selector booklet that came with it?

I don't have access to mine now but I have the KT88 data written on a piece of paper.

KT88...

Heater 6
Socket 63
Sensitivity 53
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Strangely (Or maybe not)

That "1960" chart lists for 6550

Heater 6
Socket 63
Sensitivity 56

Then I looked at the 1962 Booklet and the 6550 is not even listed in that chart :crazy:

Frannie
 
I tested my first 6550 tube, it looked to work correctly, but it must of caused something to go bad in the tester. Every tube I have tried to test afterwards shows shorted, even when I install the first one I tested again, and brand new ones.
 
Steve,

RS Steve said:
I tested my first 6550 tube, it looked to work correctly, but it must of caused something to go bad in the tester. Every tube I have tried to test afterwards shows shorted, even when I install the first one I tested again, and brand new ones.
Click to expand...

I am not entirely sure if the 650 has the two "Fuse" lamps inside but if yours does sometimes those get loose and cause this type of issue.

Or just humidity (Florida don't have that right :) ) or a bad cap.

This thread has some tips.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....uddenly-reading-everything-as-shorted.718278/

Frannie
 
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