Ashly XR1001

woofmytweets

woofmytweets

Super Member
Hi everyone

was by the electronic surplus store today, where i picked up an Ashley XR1001 crossover for a cool $50. it needs a knob and a power cord....otherwise it seems to be in pretty mint shape - no scratches on it, or dings...no scraped paint on the rack mount, and it doesn't look like any enamel on the screws that hold the lid on have been damaged, so i don't think it's been opened

anyway - i'm kinda curious, as i've been interested in bi-amping for a while. have a couple questions.

first off, the 'current' incarnation of the XR1001 seems to have a mono subwoofer out, whereas mine does not...it's also got an IEC power cord socket where mine is fixed, and the power switch is on the front of mine vs. the back in the one on Ashly's website....also it seems to be a lot more blue. any idea what it is that i've got here?

second, assuming it survives my meddling attempt to install a new power cord, is it possible to connect the balanced output to an unbalanced amplifier? i've seen simple cables put together where the inverse-phase signal is just grounded out - is that something i should avoid? (I have SS amps).

anyway - thanks for reading - as always, pics:
IMG_20160706_211453.jpgIMG_20160706_211516.jpg
 
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also, some closeups of the the labels.
IMG_20160706_220226.jpg IMG_20160706_220245.jpg IMG_20160706_220257.jpg


GAH - just clued in on the 240VAC label.

gotta be more careful what i pull outta the junk
 
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Ashly gear is very nice gear. Well made and good sounding. I would imagine that the 240V can be converted to 120V fairly easily. My guess is that an e-mail or call to Ashly can net that information.
 
I run a mix of home and "pro" gear. The high pass balanced out from my crossover drives a pair of Dyna MKIII's with unbalanced inputs with no problem whatsoever. In addition the unbalanced outs from my ARC preamp drive the balanced inputs on that same crossover. I used adaptors until I bought XLR to RCA IC's.
 
JoeESP9 said:
I run a mix of home and "pro" gear. The high pass balanced out from my crossover drives a pair of Dyna MKIII's with unbalanced inputs with no problem whatsoever. In addition the unbalanced outs from my ARC preamp drive the balanced inputs on that same crossover. I used adaptors until I bought XLR to RCA IC's.
Click to expand...

ahh - "IC", thanks, still thinking about this - although curious whether or not it's worthwhile to try to get this unit running on 120V or to just get a new one.....pretty sure i need a bigger rack for all this gear now too.
 
Plug it in, i bet it runs fine on 120.

The manual for the current version says:
Your XR Crossover should be connected to
a standard 3-wire grounded electrical outlet
supplying 100-240 Volts, 50-60 Hz. To reduce the risk of ground loop hum, connect all
audio equipment to the same electrical power source. Do not remove the AC plug ground
pin, as a potential shock hazard could result.
This unit will perform normally within the
AC voltage range specified above. Voltages
less than this, as found in “brown-out” c
onditions, may reduce performance. No user
serviceable parts are inside the chassis. Refer
all servicing to qualified service personnel.
Overall power consumption is less than 30 watts.
Click to expand...
 
bowtie427ss said:
Plug it in, i bet it runs fine on 120.

The manual for the current version says:
Click to expand...
interesting....of course mine is not the same as the current unit - but worth a shot for sure....first, of course, i'm going to have to replace the power cord, as the previous owner chose to disregard the part about not removing the grounding pin, and actully went a bit further and removed the other 2 pins as well.
 
woofmytweets said:
as the previous owner chose to disregard the part about not removing the grounding pin, and actully went a bit further and removed the other 2 pins as well.
Click to expand...
I bet that stopped the "hum". ;)

I'd give Ashly a call, tell the operator what you have and that it's an older unit and you want to know if it follows the same AC mains convention as the current model, she will connect you to the appropriate tech who can tell you for sure.
Phone (585) 872-0010
 
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hjames said:
The early XR1001 were US made, later runs were made offshore ...
My early one did not have a subwoofer output ...

Owner's manual is available on the Ashly website
http://ashly.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/xr-1001-2001-4001-crossovers-r01.pdf
Click to expand...
i did see that, but due to the difference in appearance, i didn't think it applied to my unit - i am glad to see it's a multivoltage unit - gonna have to get a power cord installed on this badboy post-haste.

also glad that it's made in the USA
 
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woofmytweets said:
i did see that, but due to the difference in appearance, i didn't think it applied to my unit - i am glad to see it's a multivoltage unit - gonna have to get a power cord installed on this badboy post-haste.

also glad that it's made in the USA
Click to expand...

Yours says Made in USA so it is, the later ones were not.

I used one when I biamped a pair of JBL 4341 Studio Monitors with various amps -
I thought it was quite an improvement over the M552 (?) JBL/UREI crossovers.
 
hjames said:
Yours says Made in USA so it is, the later ones were not.

I used one when I biamped a pair of JBL 4341 Studio Monitors with various amps -
I thought it was quite an improvement over the M552 (?) JBL/UREI crossovers.
Click to expand...
so when i do this - do i have to do anything to the speaker's own crossover? i was thinking that i wouldn't be sending them any frequencies that they needed to block, so the whole thing would be more efficient. speakers already have hi/low terminals for biamp/biwire and jumpers for normal operation.
 
woofmytweets said:
so when i do this - do i have to do anything to the speaker's own crossover? i was thinking that i wouldn't be sending them any frequencies that they needed to block, so the whole thing would be more efficient. speakers already have hi/low terminals for biamp/biwire and jumpers for normal operation.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you know this or not, but are you aware that you have to bypass the internal speaker's passive crossover? Because, you will be using be using the active crossover to adjust frequencies. You have to open the speakers up to wire speakers directly, so amps don't go through internal passive crossover.
 
woofmytweets ... In general you need to bypass the speaker's internal passive crossovers when using active x-overs. That being said, you can give it a try (if you have separate woofer and tweeter inputs) without doing so for grins (it won't hurt anything). Select a crossover frequency that corresponds with your speaker's known x-over frequency. This will cause the dip at the crossover point to be larger, because you are rolling off both drivers, even more than the internal passive x-over does, a bit before the actual "acoustic" crossover point. NOW .... the Ashly has a somewhat unique feature that allows you to adjust the amplitude at the x-over point (knob is labeled "response"). You can increase this x-over point amplitude to compensate for the dip that you are creating by "doubling up" with both a passive and an active x-over at the same frequency. I sure hope that made sense :-)
 
soundmig said:
woofmytweets ... In general you need to bypass the speaker's internal passive crossovers when using active x-overs. That being said, you can give it a try (if you have separate woofer and tweeter inputs) without doing so for grins (it won't hurt anything). Select a crossover frequency that corresponds with your speaker's known x-over frequency. This will cause the dip at the crossover point to be larger, because you are rolling off both drivers, even more than the internal passive x-over does, a bit before the actual "acoustic" crossover point. NOW .... the Ashly has a somewhat unique feature that allows you to adjust the amplitude at the x-over point (knob is labeled "response"). You can increase this x-over point amplitude to compensate for the dip that you are creating by "doubling up" with both a passive and an active x-over at the same frequency. I sure hope that made sense :)
Click to expand...

just reading up on it now, even though i have no idea if this crossover even works - but not too keen on dismantling my speakers...plus, they're 3 way, which means i'd really need to keep the passive crossover for the mid/high in place at miniumum, as this Ashly is only a 2-way crossover....so not sure what to do with it for now....glad i only put $50 into this thing. I'll see if i can get it to work and then worry about it some more. Maybe i can flip it and put the dough into something else.

i seem to remember something in the manual for these Creon's saying they're suitable for bi-amping as is. i thought the point was just not to throw a bunch of power into the passive crossover to be dissipated as heat and be more efficient....wish i'd paid better attention in electronics class.
 
Bi-amping is a term that is used rightly and wrongly by everyone from amplifier to speaker manufacturers. Bi-amping is a process whereby you use two amplifiers to drive two different drivers (or sets of drivers). There is: passive bi-amping; active bi-amping; vertical passive bi-amping; horizontal passive bi-amping; Vertical active bi-amping; and Horizontal active bi-amping. And there are probably other iterations too. Active crossovers are used to do active bi-amping. The active crossover sends a band limited (or low passed) bass signal to the amp driving a woofer or mid-woofer section --- and a band limited (or high passed) treble signal to an amp driving the high frequency driver (or mid/tweeter section). That's the most simplistic form. Even in this form it is very common for a passive element (capacitor) to be used in series with the tweeter or mid-tweeter to protect it from low frequency bump from amps (and/or the active crossover) being turned on and off. In reality it's much more simple than it sounds. But ... if you're not certain a call to the speaker manufacturer is never a bad idea :)
 
soundmig said:
Bi-amping is a term that is used rightly and wrongly by everyone from amplifier to speaker manufacturers. Bi-amping is a process whereby you use two amplifiers to drive two different drivers (or sets of drivers). There is: passive bi-amping; active bi-amping; vertical passive bi-amping; horizontal passive bi-amping; Vertical active bi-amping; and Horizontal active bi-amping. And there are probably other iterations too. Active crossovers are used to do active bi-amping. The active crossover sends a band limited (or low passed) bass signal to the amp driving a woofer or mid-woofer section --- and a band limited (or high passed) treble signal to an amp driving the high frequency driver (or mid/tweeter section). That's the most simplistic form. Even in this form it is very common for a passive element (capacitor) to be used in series with the tweeter or mid-tweeter to protect it from low frequency bump from amps (and/or the active crossover) being turned on and off. In reality it's much more simple than it sounds. But ... if you're not certain a call to the speaker manufacturer is never a bad idea :)
Click to expand...
thanks. Amphion was very helpful when i originally contacted them for information on the feet of the speakers, the screws were all missing and they told me what kind i should be looking for.
 
I have the newer Ashly and the only way I'd use it is to scrap the speaker's passive network and connect the LF and HF amps directly to their respective drivers.

The main advantage of an active crossover is that since it's placed upstream of the amps it changes the signal frequency before it's amplified not after as is the case with a passive crossover. Consequently you get no signal/power loss burned off by the passive network.

There's a 1001 in there somewhere.

PA020023.jpg
 
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Poultrygeist said:
I have the newer Ashly and the only way I'd use it is to scrap the speaker's passive network and connect the LF and HF amps directly to their respective drivers.

The main advantage of an active crossover is that since it's placed upstream of the amps it changes the signal frequency before it's amplified not after as is the case with a passive crossover. Consequently you get no signal/power loss burned off by the passive network.

There's a 1001 in there somewhere.

PA020023.jpg
Click to expand...


yeah, see if i had the newer one, i could use the subwoofer out to drive the bass channels of my speakers in mono, and then the other 2 channels to do the mids and tweeters. as it sits, and if the thing works, i'd still have to keep one of the passive networks in place to split the mids/highs.

although maybe what i should do is just setup an experimental system....with some 2-way speakers i don't mind playing with. seems like i jumped the gun on this crossover...we'll see if it even powers up
 
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