Bearing wear on an SP 10 mk II PICS

You guys have it backwards. Red thread sealant is the "permanent" stuff that needs heat to bust it loose. Blue just requires some extra force with a wrench.
 
You guys have it backwards. Red thread sealant is the "permanent" stuff that needs heat to bust it loose. Blue just requires some extra force with a wrench.
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The dementia is starting to show. LOL Yes you are right.
Got off track when the reference was made to use heat to break it lose and it was blue.
 
totem said:
The dementia is starting to show. LOL Yes you are right.
Got off track when the reference was made to use heat to break it lose and it was blue.
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I think the real show stopper was the shape of that bearing cap. I mean is there a special wrench designed to turn just it or what? With the best alternative option appearing to be a strap-wrench, anything, including a little heat, was helpful in getting that off.

However, now that I know how those pieces assemble and disassemble, I would not anticipate any future problems with it. I'd use the blue again because I know I can break it loose with relative ease so long as I mount the motor housing into the chassis (for leverage) and use a strap wrench like the one in the photo.....and use a heat gun to soften the adhesive.

But the tricky part was having no reference information available to tell us how the parts assemble.

-Steve
 
Hi guys!

Spurred on by the great posts here, I've stripped my SP-10 mk.II down. All caps replaced in both the deck and psu a while back.

Bottom cap successfully removed from the bearing following Steve's great advice to use a heatgun. Worked a treat! Only problem I'm now faced with is, how to get the ball bearing out of the housing. I'm guessing it's just an interference fit, and will pop out with a bit of persuasion with the help from a piece of wooden dowling poked into the top of the bearing, but thought I'd check in with the experts first. Don't wish to damage anything.

Cheers,

John.
 
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I have also buyed a sp10 mk2 with massive wear of the little plastic (Teflon?) end of the spindle. It has even a hole in the middle, if you ditach it form the spindle. The whole platter is sitting way too deep for that reason. I have the possibility to lathe a new one. But I don't know which material I should use?
Is there a better, more modern possibility ?
Thanks for your help.
 
What are the sonic improvements that one could expect by upgrading the bearing in a 1200?I went ahead with the tonearm rewire,did away with the P.C. board for a terminal board,and added the fluid damper.I don't know that I want another project just yet.
 
I get the sense the OP might have been put off since his original post, I for one would be disappointed if that is the case.
 
Yes a very interesting and fun read. I've pulled the trigger on a bearing upgrade for my m5g - it is definetely worthy of a high end bearing
 
Hallo, very interesting thread; but in all these years there have been substantial innovations for Sp 10Mk2 bearings?
Cheers
 
I know the SP10 series has a lot of fans... for good reason. But every TT has a bearing, they're all spinning, and presumably wearing to some degree. The myth promulgated by the industry 40 years ago that these motors NEVER need lube or maintenance was not helpful, creating an unwarranted confidence that deterred the routine checks any car owner, or sewing machine for that matter, would do automatically.

I don't have an SP10. I have a Denon DP80 and a Micro Seiki DQX-1000.

Does anyone have knowledge of those bearings, thrust pads, wear and tear, longevity, preventive medicine, etc?

34 posts on the Technics; I'm feeling neglected.
 
bimasta said:
I know the SP10 series has a lot of fans... for good reason. But every TT has a bearing, they're all spinning, and presumably wearing to some degree. The myth promulgated by the industry 40 years ago that these motors NEVER need lube or maintenance was not helpful, creating an unwarranted confidence that deterred the routine checks any car owner, or sewing machine for that matter, would do automatically.

I don't have an SP10. I have a Denon DP80 and a Micro Seiki DQX-1000.

Does anyone have knowledge of those bearings, thrust pads, wear and tear, longevity, preventive medicine, etc?

34 posts on the Technics; I'm feeling neglected.
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I wonder if Technics had any idea that in the year 2018, people would be discussing the bearing design of their 1970's decks. Perhaps, like Apple, obsolescence was built in--to a certain degree, at least. At any rate, I'm certain that they never meant for these turntables to be in use for more than 15-20 years. It's a testament to the clever folks on this forum that have taken this on and keep these things going long after their intended useful lives have expired. The computer/smartphone/tablet designers should take note. After all, they try to convince us that they are modern thinking individuals who value free thinking and the environment. But in 40 years, our cities will be buried under a mountain of discarded phones and computers while some of you will still be cracking open 80 year old turntables to see how to make them work like new again.
 
bimasta said:
The myth promulgated by the industry 40 years ago that these motors NEVER need lube or maintenance was not helpful, creating an unwarranted confidence that deterred the routine checks any car owner, or sewing machine for that matter, would do automatically.
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I totally agree.
Impossible to believe that maintenance, lubrication, sliding metal parts is not necessary.
Technics was clever enough to make a little hole in the top of the engine to be able to lubricate with a few drops of oil, but the other turntable builders of the past hermetically sealed the entire pin / bearing assembly.
 
Mellotronix said:
Perhaps, like Apple, obsolescence was built in
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It's not Apple, it's America. When I was a kid, my school had a big influx of refugees from Hungary after their failed revolution against Soviet domination. I befriended a few of them. One day, one of them told me in total amazement that he switched on the kitchen light in his new US home — and the light bulb blew. It seems that in Hungary, bulbs never blew. Buy one light bulb, and use it for life.
 
best-groove said:
I totally agree.
Impossible to believe that maintenance, lubrication, sliding metal parts is not necessary.
Technics was clever enough to make a little hole in the top of the engine to be able to lubricate with a few drops of oil, but the other turntable builders of the past hermetically sealed the entire pin / bearing assembly.
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Any link to a source of this information? :idea:
 
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Kind of sad to think Jim Howard is no longer with us the originator of this thread. I had some nice talks with him . He is missed..............
 
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