Best Epoxy to bond Aluminium to Aluminium

crackerkorean

Striving for Polymathdom!
I am looking for an industrial strength epoxy that i can apply to a 3mm wide channel to bond two pieces of alu together.

Also it needs to be clear. Any body use anything?
 
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West System epoxy which can be found at most any chandlery. I'm sure there must be others but I've worked with this one quite a bit.
 
I've used Devcon products with great success Mike! :thmbsp:

(BTW, any gravy yet???)
 
I have looked at the devcon stuff but was looking for something super glue thin since its a very small area that I have to work with.

Any yes the gravy finally came today!!!!
 
I think it's all in the surface treatment. Make sure it's clean, & roughed up - with emery paper or score it with a knife blade.
 
Its going to be anodized so the oxidation on the alu should not be a problem. Thats the main prob with alu is that once its cut (raw alu) it forms a layer oxidation.

Has anybody tried super glue?
 
Super glue may work, but I think the success will depend on whether you need high tensile strength, high shear strength, or both.

I think super glue is good in tensile, but maybe not so good in shear.
 
I need something clear so JB weld is a no go. I think I have it figured out. I got some super glue to try out though.
 
Theres one Id bet my life on, BROWNELLS ACCUGLASS able to bond sights on big game rifles like my .458 win mag. Some 12gauge home defence-close qaurter combat shot guns use gost sights factory bonded on useing this epoxy.

step one when bonding to aluminum use 230 grit cloth and rough up the surface then clean with alcohol.
mix your epoxy and apply a small amount to both sides,press togather then pull apart once. Now press back togather and leave it alone for 48 hours.

Buy the way in 1990 I bonded a new penny mint 1990 to the top of a cast steel storm drain.In 2008 I am happy to say it is still there after 18 years of summers hitting over 110 and freezing winters,skate boarders and menny people and cars. I can post a picture if you like.Bottom line nothing is better for metal to metal.

and it drys clear.
 
How well does the acra glas release agent work?

There might be times where I would have to take the pieces apart. Though a rare occasion but im sure it would come up at times.

That might be the product to use.
I found Loctite H8000 but cannot find it anywhere.
 
release agent dose NOT debond accuglass.It is used when bedding a rifle stock to keep the epoxy from sticking to a surface in the first place.So you can remove the barraled action from the stock,In this application you are useing epoxy to fill voids for an exact fit not glueing two peices of something togather.

once you bond something with accuglass it;s forever, unless you cryo freeze it and spread it apart with a pry bar till it cracks loose.But this is not with out risk.
 
What do you hunt for, Godzilla??? :scratch2:

I used to hunt wild boar. I built it from a P17 enfeild action useing a medium heavy preamium 26 inch air gauge dougless barral,wolf springs,a cock on close kit a hell of alot of trigger work and a nice pillor bed walnut stock,Ive since added a 1.5 to 6X scope and a speacil load useing a 300 grain hollow point at 2735 FPS.
It is a real deer stopper,but I don't hunt anything now, The whole thing scoped weighs 11.2 pounds.
I hunted in a place where montain lions,bears where not shy so stopping power was always my first priority.My hunting pistol was a .454 Casul I just sold it,always keep your hand gun on as I once went behind a tree to turn beer into urin with no rifle an was suprised to see a bore baring down on me,I actualy shot him while peeing! running was not an option...
 
Theres one Id bet my life on, BROWNELLS ACCUGLASS able to bond sights on big game rifles like my .458 win mag. Some 12gauge home defence-close qaurter combat shot guns use gost sights factory bonded on useing this epoxy.

step one when bonding to aluminum use 230 grit cloth and rough up the surface then clean with alcohol.
mix your epoxy and apply a small amount to both sides,press togather then pull apart once. Now press back togather and leave it alone for 48 hours.

Buy the way in 1990 I bonded a new penny mint 1990 to the top of a cast steel storm drain.In 2008 I am happy to say it is still there after 18 years of summers hitting over 110 and freezing winters,skate boarders and menny people and cars. I can post a picture if you like.Bottom line nothing is better for metal to metal.

and it drys clear.

I wanna see the penny!
 
>press togather then pull apart once.

Interesting!
What does pulling apart once do, better than just leaving them pressed once?
 
The color of accuglas in not compleatly clear it is a little yellowish.Here is the picture of the penny I promissed .
Another alturnitive is GOOP in the purple tube.I would try that first because it is able to be debonded useing a heat gun.
I was mistaken on the year it was 1998 so ok 10 years.
 
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