Best Home Domestic Reel to Reel

Hi, Well I have placed a bid on the Teac A2300S, hopefully I will win it, I am still keen on a Revox A77 and the Tandberg 9100 X, but that is for next time, for now, I will experiment with the Teac and go from there, thanks for all of your input and guidance, I will keep you all posted on how it turns out. Thanks. Groovetube.
 
I would recommend the ReVox A or B 77 over the Tandberg. For durability and parts support and maintenance reasons alone. And they are also fine performers.
 
Hi, I agree, although, by what I've read about the Tandbergs sonic performance alone, I have no chance to hear any in the flesh,including Revox, so I did a youtube search, and I found that I prefered the sound of the revox A77 over the Tandberg. I am still winning the bid on the Teac A2300S, but I have also made an offer on a Teac A2300SX, what are there differences ? I can't find any comparisons on google search. Thanks. Groovetube.
 
Um, sorry... but there is NO way to evaluate the sonics of these decks (or any other audio equipment) via Youtube. You're listening to some digital facsimile of the actual equipment, not the real thing.

I own a bunch of Tandberg decks but would tend to agree with Kent on this one. If you can get a B-77 for anywhere near the price of the 9100X, buy it. The sonics aside, it's just a better built machine and the easier of the two to have restored to 100% working condition these days.

John
 
I have had or have almost every tape deck discussed in this thread. I currently own over 25 and have probably had 100 of them come and go over the years. In my opinion Pioneer 909 is beautiful eye candy but it has a part that when it goes is unobtanium and then they are a parts machine. Eventually everyone of them is doomed to fail. Akai M8 is an old tube deck, own 3 of them but I wouldn't recommend them other than as a curiosity same with the Akai 1710. Teac 4020 and all of it's subsets, a good deck in it's day but dated like all decks without locking spindles. Uses the old Akai style of having the transport and electronics separate. Otari MX5050, I have one that is 4 track and has been modded to 3 3\4, 7 1\2 & 15 IPS. A solid pro workhorse machine but requires a special balance input\output to RCA adapter as normal one don't work, I built my own. Probably one the last 5 decks I would get rid of. Teac 23\3300 series, any of them. I currently own four of them and the 2300 and one 3300 would also be on my list of my last 5 decks to get rid of. Revox of any flavor is a solid deck, but rather pricey for what you get. Akai GX-620, I have never had one but currently have GX-625 which has the same transport. It has a solid transport mechanism but flakey output transistors. I am going to sell my working GX-747 to fund the repair of my GX-625 and other projects. Pioneer 1020 have it and a 707 that need repairs but both still play.The 1020 will be the keeper to be repaired. Sony, I have one left out the over 15 I have had over the years, it is three head but one motor. The one motor ones are easier to repair. I have had one Tandberg and it was not reliable IMHO. These are just my opinions, YMMV.
 
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My short list would be a Revox A or B series or a Crown SX or CX series. Next would be a 64x or 6000 series Tandberg. This assumes you do not stumble on a KLH 41.
 
Revox A or B series. The best sounding decks I've ever come across. I would take a look at that Otari too. I prefer 1/2 track myself.
 
I have two r2r and I like them both. One is a Studer A807 with meter bridge and cart and the other is an Akai GX-630D. They both work well but the Studer is a better built machine. It costs more but it is worth it.
 
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I would choose a B-77 Revox. And would install a roller bearing on the feed guide with one extra space on both guides. It will cut down on scrape flutter with older tapes. The one thing you need to remember with any Revos is to use the opposite fast wind control to bring the tape to a pause before using the stop button. This will extend the life of the brake bands and the brake drum material. You can always use heavy Levis pant material for brake linings successfully. Use glue sparingly other wise the glue will migrate to the stainless steel bands causing the brakes to lock up snapping your tape.
 
On my A77 I ordered and installed the roller guide in place of the static one. Never understood the reasoning behind using the static guide as it was just a friction surface.
 
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