Best way to restore wood/veneer speaker cabinets?

[mech986]

I have ordered some walnut Howard's restor for large Advent. I am curious if this tends to be "drippy" and if so how is that controlled. I do not want to remove tweeter but want to make sure it does not drip anywhere where it could hurt something. Also is 0000 wool best tool for spreading? The cabinets have minor scratches but are overall nice. Just got woofers refoamed too. Plan to put this stuff on and then reinstall woofers. Advice? suggestions?

It is a liquid so can be drippy if just poured on. But that's not the way to apply it. You should apply it to a flat horizontal surface and a small puddle that is then spread along the grain using 0000 steel wool or a lint free cloth. By doing so, you will only apply what is needed and no more for a given area you're working on. If you have any concern, you should mask off with tape and paper any areas on the front baffle which you don't want anything to contact.

Your work area should also be covered, Howard's RAF will stain carpet and clothing if not careful. And of course, the area should be well ventilated and have no sparks or ignition sources as the solvents are flammable.

 

[markmark]

I am a firm believer in "Howards". If you have any deep nicks or scratches fill them in with walnut colored putty first, not the plain color that sais it is stainable. Sand it afterwards and apply the Howards Restor-A-Finish and the Feed-N-Wax and you will have a a very presentable set of speakers. Sometimes dark water stains can be a pain to remove but that is another topic. I attached a couple pictures of a pair I did. You can see all the after pictures in my album if you like. Good luck!

Wow,
I'm off to find some Howards...

 

[LutherG1]

It is a liquid so can be drippy if just poured on. But that's not the way to apply it. You should apply it to a flat horizontal surface and a small puddle that is then spread along the grain using 0000 steel wool or a lint free cloth. By doing so, you will only apply what is needed and no more for a given area you're working on. If you have any concern, you should mask off with tape and paper any areas on the front baffle which you don't want anything to contact.

Your work area should also be covered, Howard's RAF will stain carpet and clothing if not careful. And of course, the area should be well ventilated and have no sparks or ignition sources as the solvents are flammable.

THANKS - one more perhaps obessive question. Since it is suppposed to be applied to "flat horizontal surface" should it be applied to one side of speaker at a time, then let that side dry, then go to next? In other words, should it not be applied vertically? Again, these Advents are already acceptable but it would be cool for them to look closer to awesome.

 

[boreas]

Here's a set of photos showing a full restoration on a very rough pair of ADS L400s. These never even heard the word "Howard's" uttered in their presence.

http://s981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/jrbarringer/ADS L400/

John

 

[boreas]

What about bubbles in veneer?

Can anything be done about some half-dollar to dollar sized bubbles in veneer?

Needle, inject glue and compress?

I'm trying to restore some speakers that have ALL the problems! Chunks missing, scratches, pushed in dust caps, rotted surrounds etc.

Project speakers to say the least!
The pictures in this thread gives me hope though.

Ben

Some glues can be activated or reactivated with heat. If you're talking about wood veneer, I'd try making a small slit in the veneer WITH the grain and then use a steam iron to reactivate the bond. If you're talking about vinyl, try a pin hole and then the iron.

Careful with temperature, especially on vinyl. You can overheat the adhesive, causing it to essentially boil and then harden in a lumpy film that shows through the vinyl or wood veneer.

John

 

[bd1886]

I'm a restoration guy who has done resto's and matching with most surfaces imaginable. Howard's, tung oil, "true varnish" (not poly or spar varnishes) will do every aspect of a fix with no downside and future fixing is all easier (Wax is another "good guy" but you need to remember it's been applied and dealt with when reworking a spot or refinishing)
Polys,water based polys,Varathanes,lacquers etc......all are fine but have inter-bonding,yellowing,plastic look concerns that you need not concern yourself with when "Three cans/One Man" will keep it simple, take care of the lions share of issues in adjusting color,achieving an original look, being able to "quickie" a spot repair while bringing something back, and future maintenance ease. The others are fine (and can deliver great results in a refinish) but something would have to be severely extreme to warrant all this work to rip off "all" the original finish that is already "work done". Slays me to see folks jump to a strip and stain to just see "it done"......worse to see a poor stain job due to ignorance. (There is where you have true problems that WANT you to have those scratches, water rings, and missing little pieces of wood back in front of you!)
The basic advice that is coming from all the people in this thread....is from a lot of good experience (and learning) to keep things simple....and no drama!!! Those three products are "the core" to everything in easy....and the ones that have little downside worries (with putting their advised use out to all skill levels) in an open forum. Use just one/or all three....whatever gets you there. Other stuff can deliver wonderful to glorious results....but after whipping through so much "easy and stock look with re-do's".... why? (Unless "glorious custom" is your intent.) JMHO.

 

[boreas]

I'm a restoration guy who has done resto's nd matching with most surfaces imaginable. Howard's,tung oil, "true varnish" (not poly or spar varnishes) will do every aspect of a fix with no downside and future fixing is all easier (Wax is another "good guy" but you need to remember it's been applied and dealt with when reworking a spot or refinishing) Polys,water based polys,Varathanes,lacquers etc......all are fine but have inter-bonding,yellowing,plastic look concerns that you need not concern yourself with when "Three cans/One Man" will keep it simple, take care of the lions share of issues in adjusting color,achieving an original look, and future maintenance ease. The others are fine (and can deliver great results in a refinish) but something would have to be severely extreme to warrant all this work to rip off "all" the original finish that is already "work done". Slays me to see folks jump to a strip and stain to just see "it done"......worse to see a poor stain job due to ignorance. (There is where you have true problems.)
The basic advice that is coming from all the people in this thread....is from a lot of good experience and learning to keep things simple....and no drama!!!

I agree that the minimum amount of work is always best but sometimes the minimum required is a helluva lot. When you have water stains, deep scratches, veneer losses, crushed corners, etc. it's sometimes preferable to remove all the old finish and start with a clean slate so to speak.

Removing a spot here and a spot there of old finish in order to sand out a deep scratch or remove a plant ring can, and usually does, result in a spotty appearance of new vs. new on top of old work. Again, better to start fresh, IMO.

As for stain, I try to avoid it. That includes Restor-a-Finish.

John

 

[bd1886]

I agree...

I agree that the minimum amount of work is always best but sometimes the minimum required is a helluva lot. When you have water stains, deep scratches, veneer losses, crushed corners, etc. it's sometimes preferable to remove all the old finish and start with a clean slate so to speak.

Removing a spot here and a spot there of old finish in order to sand out a deep scratch or remove a plant ring can, and usually does, result in a spotty appearance of new vs. new on top of old work. Again, better to start fresh, IMO.

As for stain, I try to avoid it. That includes Restor-a-Finish.

John

I spent a good part of a career learning how to change "fidgeting through" to "blowing through" all these issues to make them border on "no issue" in time spent, but it still amazes me what problems just go away if I had these tricks or not! You point is very valid and wish it would be easy to go on in teaching the tricks.....other posts I've done do a bit.

Yup....pick your path, as you know yourself best. (Going Gandhi here!) One thing still holds true though....learning the "basic three" as far as you can, is an important "feather in a hat". What I like (no...love) about all three, is they are reversible and/or....can be just one component to something more. Pushing your learning (while trying to stick with the three) is a huge avenue to so much work done FAST! (Brown art pencil stash, colored Howard's, dabs of gel stain, a little cheapo "make-up" blender brush, Elmers wood patch WB, kneading epoxy, Howard's Natural, a lacquer mist......tricks that spank stuff out and you hardly have to use many of them on any one project.)

Ya....I have a start from fresh "thing" I'm staring at right now. (Someone oil poly'd on top of a white stained Danish piece....looks like it's bathed in two inches of nicotine....

 

[boreas]

Ya....I have a start from fresh "thing" I'm staring at right now. (Someone oil poly'd on top of a white stained Danish piece....looks like it's bathed in two inches of nicotine....

Ack!!! Poly :yuck:

John

 

[doctorolds]

What's the best way to restore scratches, watermarks, etc from wood/veneer speakers?

Let us look at the OP's original question. It should be noted that the severity of a scratch, watermark, and so on are all determining factors in choosing the "BEST" method to use as well as the amount of work it will take to get the desired results, be it an acceptable or near perfect finish.

IMO Howards products would be classified as the easiest to use and will provide acceptable results for most people. One drawback in using the Restor-A-Finish is that there will be a change in color from the original finish.

An individual will have to determine how good they want the final finish to be when the work is completed, and that answer should determine the best method(s) to use. Everyone has a different skill set as well as the environment that they can perform the work required. This will vary from the kitchen table to a large workshop with all of the required tools.

There are plenty of threads out there so read as many as possible and remember to be careful not to do anything that cannot be undone.

 

[Skylab]

Very well put. Howard's is great for people like me who have essentially no woodworking skills and no workshop.

 

[SteveS in VA]

Howards is hardly a durable product. It's primary ingredient is parafinn oil (basically a light mineral oil) that doesn't ever cure. It also includes an assortment of solvents--acetic acid (like in vinegar), isopropal alchohol, and several varieties of mineral spirit like solvents. To that is added some colorant. The solvents will help clean the surface, and the parafin oil will wet any bare wood, darkening the color for a time. It will provide essentially zero protection from moisture damage in the future.

For a more durable approach that will provide protection going forward, I recommend first cleaning the surfaces with mineral spirits, and then using a mix of oil (boiled linseed oil) and varnish (any oil based varnish) wiped on, let to penetrate a few minutes, and then vigorously wiped off with dry rags or paper towels. This will leave a low gloss satin finish that is basically in the wood. If applied over a prior finish, it should old remain in scratches where it can penetrate, but be almost completely removed from old finish.

For a real refinishing, not just a touch up, then instead of just cleaning the surface, you could use a chemical stripper to remove the original finish. (There is virtually never thick enough veneer to sand off old finish.) Then use a couple of applications of the oil/varnish mix. (Oil/varnish mix can also be purchased ready made as Danish Oil. such a Watco, or as Antique Oil, from Minwax.

 

[doctorolds]

It will provide essentially zero protection from moisture damage in the future.

If you will notice in post #17 that I recommended Howards Feed-N-Wax as a method to protect the finish. Of course you can select the product of your personal liking.

 

[Skylab]

If you will notice in post #17 that I recommended Howards Feed-N-Wax as a method to protect the finish. Of course you can select the product of your personal liking.

As did I in post #2!!!!

 

[kyle]

In a similar vein, I have a pair of Altec 620 oak cabs that the previous owner put a plant pot on. This left a 6" dia. black ring in the oak finish that seems to be fairly deep. How can this be removed?

 

[boreas]

If you will notice in post #17 that I recommended Howards Feed-N-Wax as a method to protect the finish. Of course you can select the product of your personal liking.

Feed-N-Wax is, as I recall, bee's wax and orange oil. It does a so-so job of protecting the wood for a short period of time but is in no way a permanent finish. In fact, Howard's recommends reapplication as often as once a month.

John

 

[cratz2]

Feed-N-Wax is, as I recall, bee's wax and orange oil. It does a so-so job of protecting the wood for a short period of time but is in no way a permanent finish. In fact, Howard's recommends reapplication as often as once a month.

John

I think of the Feed-N-Wax more as a conditioner than a protectant. The Restor-A-Finish that helps hide scratches, small nicks and helps ameliorate finish color inconsistencies from fading or light water damage is what I was more specifically recommending.

I think the Feed-N-Wax is more to protect the dye portion of the finish and to add a bit of luster. For furniture that routinely sees actual wear, I'd definitely go for something more durable and would just skip the Feed-N-Wax for fear that it would stop whatever long-term finish from adhering. For something like speakers handled by adults... I'd think a reapplication once or twice a year would be more than enough.

 

[westend]

Howards is hardly a durable product. It's primary ingredient is parafinn oil (basically a light mineral oil) that doesn't ever cure. It also includes an assortment of solvents--acetic acid (like in vinegar), isopropal alchohol, and several varieties of mineral spirit like solvents. To that is added some colorant. The solvents will help clean the surface, and the parafin oil will wet any bare wood, darkening the color for a time. It will provide essentially zero protection from moisture damage in the future.

For a more durable approach that will provide protection going forward, I recommend first cleaning the surfaces with mineral spirits, and then using a mix of oil (boiled linseed oil) and varnish (any oil based varnish) wiped on, let to penetrate a few minutes, and then vigorously wiped off with dry rags or paper towels. This will leave a low gloss satin finish that is basically in the wood. If applied over a prior finish, it should old remain in scratches where it can penetrate, but be almost completely removed from old finish.

For a real refinishing, not just a touch up, then instead of just cleaning the surface, you could use a chemical stripper to remove the original finish. (There is virtually never thick enough veneer to sand off old finish.) Then use a couple of applications of the oil/varnish mix. (Oil/varnish mix can also be purchased ready made as Danish Oil. such a Watco, or as Antique Oil, from Minwax.

I don't know what kind of experience you have with veneer but stating that none are typically thick enough to sand is not accurate.

In a similar vein, I have a pair of Altec 620 oak cabs that the previous owner put a plant pot on. This left a 6" dia. black ring in the oak finish that seems to be fairly deep. How can this be removed?

The black ring is the result of water intruding into the cell structure of the wood. A wood bleach like oxalic acid can be used to remove the ring after all of the finish is removed.

I think of the Feed-N-Wax more as a conditioner than a protectant. The Restor-A-Finish that helps hide scratches, small nicks and helps ameliorate finish color inconsistencies from fading or light water damage is what I was more specifically recommending.

I think the Feed-N-Wax is more to protect the dye portion of the finish and to add a bit of luster. For furniture that routinely sees actual wear, I'd definitely go for something more durable and would just skip the Feed-N-Wax for fear that it would stop whatever long-term finish from adhering. For something like speakers handled by adults... I'd think a reapplication once or twice a year would be more than enough.

Howards RAF has solvents that will soften the original finish (but not polyurethane finish) and has stain that helps to hide imperfections like through-finish scratches. Howards FAW is just that, wax, with a citric based oil, the latter to help the spread of the wax onto the finish. It's a great product for quick revitalization of finished wood. The FAW can be removed with mineral spirits and a rag.

 

[TomInTacoma]

One more vote for the Howard's Restore-a-Finish and Wax & Feed. I just finished the wood-work on a pair of Carver Silver Edition speakers. The lovely golden oak came out so nicely!

 

[LutherG1]

One more vote for the Howard's Restore-a-Finish and Wax & Feed. I just finished the wood-work on a pair of Carver Silver Edition speakers. The lovely golden oak came out so nicely!

Is the Howard's RAF Walnut OK for original large Advents as far as not drastically altering walnut color?