I swapped out the original speaker terminals for binding posts on a 2265B and a 2238B. For those of you who think I ruined the originality, I did it in a way that the only thing that would be different if I put the originals back in would be soldered instead of wire wrapped connections (unless I extended the wires enough to rewrap those connections.) I figure with all the recaps and LEDs, this would be no big deal. Also, audio "purists" are more forgiving of these kinds of changes than automotive purists are. Anyway, I would like to post some pics for y'all (Texas word), but I don't know how.
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Binding posts
- Thread starter Gun Doc
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MisterFishey
Super Member
You can add pics under "Attach Files" in the "Additional Options" section underneath the text input box for replying to a message. Or, you can host them on another site and add them in an tag.
I would also like to see pictures of the binding posts... I too have been considering putting in binding posts, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Those spring loaded connectors are awful. :thumbsdn: Some links to where you got the posts would be great as well... a lot of the binding posts online look too big for the space without dremeling the chassis.
Attachments
A little more info. You do have to pull three screws off the bottom cover, and nine or ten screws off the back plate so you can lean the back plate out a little to get room for the install. Everything fits well enough, (except for the clearance issue noted above about the 2238B) but you do have to get yourself some room to work for the install.
Fast_Eddie
Upper-middle fi
Sure looks good! Nice project!
Thanks. Engineers can't spell. But at least I got the numbers right! I got mine from Allied. I think I paid about $5.60, but I was able to get our lab's pricing because we buy lots of stuff from them.
bluesaddict
New Member
MisterFishey
Super Member
Where did you source the polycarbonate/Lexan from? Your local Home Depot/Lowes or something, or did you get it elsewhere? I'm not a huge fan of the clear (a glossy black would be better) but often the clear is all that's available. Thanks for posting the part sourcing links, that will give me a good idea about how much this will cost if I decide to do it.
We use polycarbonate a lot at my lab, so scrap is easy to come by. You need a piece 4" x 2.35" or so. Maybe you can get small pieces at a plastics supply. You can use lots of things for the plate. I thought about using aluminum, but polycarbonate is tough, stable, and easy to work with. I thought the clear was kind of cool, but to each his own. Being on the back and covered in speaker wires, it's not a big deal either way.
BTW, I did a similar thing, but using 1/8 polycarbonate to make a round plate, to put the same binding posts on my Boston Acoustics A100 Series II speakers. I use some fairly large Monster Cable with Pomona MDP-0 dual banana plugs on each end. I tin the wires so the screws have something to bite. I don't like "crush" style screws on stranded wire. Stranded wire done properly requires an attachment fitting made for stranded wire. The wires go into the banana plugs ninety degrees to the axis of the plug, which automatically turns the wires down to head toward the floor. Where the ends of the wires protrude from the banana plugs, I cover them with heat shrink.
