C-28 bubbles and diffuser:

legal eagle

legal eagle

Sound Hound
I have some bubles I want to take care of on the C-28 face - here come the questions:

Last time I opened it up (just took the cover off, nothing more) I saw there were some stickers there (guess they were diffusing the light) but they were right on the back of the glass and not on a plexiglass unit. I don't remember if there was a plexiglass unit there too.

1. How do I take the knobs off without cracking the glass?

2. Am I right thinking the diffuser should just be attached to the back of the glass "as is"?

3. Bubbles under the glass stickers - tips?

:scratch2:
 
Register to hide this ad
First you will need to be brave :D ... very brave. Then:

1) just pull on the knobs, straight out and steady using your strongest fingers and they will come off, save the small felt washer that sits between the aluminum knob and the glass. They go back in the same way. Then there will be two screws on top and two on the bottom holding the "frame" to the casing. Don't confuse those with the frame screws that are slightly smaller. Once you remove the face plate, you will need to remove the end caps, and the vertical bars in the back. Eventually you get to the glass.

2) the glass is painted with gloss black from the back. Then the diffuser is TAPED to the paint, and that tape is 35 years old. Try not to peel the tape if you can help it. You will need to peel it off "slowly" if the bubble is below the diffuser.

3) what's your "glass stickers" ?

Once you reach the bubbles, try to scrape it off with a sharp knife, but without lifting off more of the paint. But you do want to take out paint that are no longer sticking to the glass. So, sometimes you end up removing a large chunk (half inch to one inch diameter). That's when you need to stay strong! At that point, I have used Testor's Gloss Black model paint, and just brush it on, just be patient and put on a layer at a time. Some portions won't stick, so you will just fill in those spots before the paint dries. When it's dry, hold the glass up and look at it from the front. Ahh...disappointment, because the edge of the new paint does not quite mesh in with the edge of the old paint. Well...dab a few more paint and work it in there, look again. Just be patient, and don't be afraid of the peeling old paint, and you will be fine. If you have bubbles where the lettering is, you will need to be more careful. I have done that with the MA5100 and the C28.
 
I did a pretty good repair job on my C22 outer glass, used Rustoleum gloss black oil based paint, per Terry's suggestion. It does take some time but I am completely satisfied with the results. Not perfect but close enough, why spend the $125+ on new glass if you don't have to.
 
The Rustoleum would be the proper paint. I just used what I had, which was a latex paint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom