C-70 Volume intricacies …

Sparkplug

Super Member
I am posting this hoping it’ll help someone down the road.

A while ago I acquired a C-70 in decent shape that needed cleaning more than anything. After cleaning came testing when right away there were problems with intermittent audio and also the Rch (or Lch, can’t remember) was completely missing. I traced the problem to the volume where incidentally noticed an ever so slight wobble in the volume shaft as well. Since this is a Japanese version of C-70, there are stark differences when compared to the US model. For example, the volume is a 24KΩ special taper Alps volume (RK21 series), as opposed to 20kΩ. On the volume label, it’s printed ‘special’ in Japanese.

I had already purchased an A-curve 20KΩ Alps volume (same series) for a different project and decided to replace the original C-70 volume. I made the change and ran some tests. The intermittent audio and missing channel problems were completely resolved but the volume was very low (anemic) as compared to the original pot. I now had to turn the volume to around 12 o’clock to get a decent level (not loud) out. It wasn’t the end of the world but still very irritating, not to mention the loss of overall audio quality. Next I took apart the original volume and ultrasonically cleaned it, oiled it up, re-assembled it and put it back in the C-70 hoping it would magically work and that I could continue using it, yeah right … take a hit …

The volume level was back alright, I’m talking about the difference of night and day here, but the Rch was one B-50 meter level higher than the Lch. This was confirmed by playing audio test tone at various frequencies and checking the meter. Even in Mono mode, the difference was readily visible.

So finally when last night going to bed and thinking what the heck to do, I suddenly had a vision, I’d put the original C-70 wafers into the new 20K Alps case where there was no wobble at all. So today I took everything apart again:
5F15A89E-B241-4D7A-86D5-3CE0D7A1E21D.jpeg

Top part is the disassembled new Alps 20k pot whereas the bottom part is the original, ultrasonically cleaned C-70 volume disassembled. Only the wafers from the original volume were ‘transplanted’ in the brand new case on top. I then reassembled everything and put the now upgraded original volume back in C-70. The audio imbalance was completely gone and full Yamaha volume was back. The new volume’s shaft is also 10mm shorter but if you fasten the volume knob a bit further back, no one, not even the Yamaha engineers can tell. :biggrin:

As for the difference in volume, it comes from the fact that the original C-70 Alps is a variation of steep logarithmic curve as opposed to the A-curve of the usual Alps volumes available commercially which are much softer curves. To see this clearly, consider the A15 and W (or special W) curves in top two graphs below:

779DFE39-0931-4261-A03F-424855D14B44.jpeg

The Alps RK21 series volumes sold at Mouser today seem to have only two taper types available (haven’t checked all models), A, and V given below:

D60D4DFF-7EB7-4792-A229-1D6065D6C879.png

The original C-70 curve is much closer to V-taper than A. With A-taper, you lose the ability to increase the volume effectively and in my experience a lot of audio quality. The difference is similar to playing music on two small speakers in your room and playing on two large professional speakers in a studio … go figure. As a last option, I was going to order a V-curve 50K (they don’t have 20k) Alps volume from Mouser and see what I could do with it. Thank god I don’t have to.

The moral of this story is that you can’t change the C-70 volume with just any A-curve volume, you’ll stand to lose a lot of volume and for me, audio quality.

Thanks for reading.
 
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Come to think of it...volume control is the main issue I've had in Nippon Gakki era control amps due to physical wacking, aside from corrosive glue fixes.
If it's not a wack matter. I cycle volume controls every year or two their full range about 20x while powered off.

Esoteric Redneckisms
 
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I am posting this hoping it’ll help someone down the road.

A while ago I acquired a C-70 in decent shape that needed cleaning more than anything. After cleaning came testing when right away there were problems with intermittent audio and also the Rch (or Lch, can’t remember) was completely missing. I traced the problem to the volume where incidentally noticed an ever so slight wobble in the volume shaft as well. Since this is a Japanese version of C-70, there are stark differences when compared to the US model. For example, the volume is a 24KΩ special taper Alps volume (RK21 series), as opposed to 20kΩ. On the volume label, it’s printed ‘special’ in Japanese.

I had already purchased an A-curve 20KΩ Alps volume (same series) for a different project and decided to replace the original C-70 volume. I made the change and ran some tests. The intermittent audio and missing channel problems were completely resolved but the volume was very low (anemic) as compared to the original pot. I now had to turn the volume to around 12 o’clock to get a decent level (not loud) out. It wasn’t the end of the world but still very irritating, not to mention the loss of overall audio quality. Next I took apart the original volume and ultrasonically cleaned it, oiled it up, re-assembled it and put it back in the C-70 hoping it would magically work and that I could continue using it, yeah right … take a hit …

The volume level was back alright, I’m talking about the difference of night and day here, but the Rch was one B-50 meter level higher than the Lch. This was confirmed by playing audio test tone at various frequencies and checking the meter. Even in Mono mode, the difference was readily visible.

So finally when last night going to bed and thinking what the heck to do, I suddenly had a vision, I’d put the original C-70 wafers into the new 20K Alps case where there was no wobble at all. So today I took everything apart again:
View attachment 3268267

Top part is the disassembled new Alps 20k pot whereas the bottom part is the original, ultrasonically cleaned C-70 volume disassembled. Only the wafers from the original volume were ‘transplanted’ in the brand new case on top. I then reassembled everything and put the now upgraded original volume back in C-70. The audio imbalance was completely gone and full Yamaha volume was back. The new volume’s shaft is also 10mm shorter but if you fasten the volume knob a bit further back, no one, not even the Yamaha engineers can tell. :biggrin:

As for the difference in volume, it comes from the fact that the original C-70 Alps is a variation of steep logarithmic curve as opposed to the A-curve of the usual Alps volumes available commercially which are much softer curves. To see this clearly, consider the A15 and W (or special W) curves in top two graphs below:

View attachment 3268270

The Alps RK21 series volumes sold at Mouser today seem to have only two taper types available (haven’t checked all models), A, and V given below:

View attachment 3268271

The original C-70 curve is much closer to V-taper than A. With A-taper, you lose the ability to increase the volume effectively and in my experience a lot of audio quality. The difference is similar to playing music on two small speakers in your room and playing on two large professional speakers in a studio … go figure. As a last option, I was going to order a V-curve 50K (they don’t have 20k) Alps volume from Mouser and see what I could do with it. Thank god I don’t have to.

The moral of this story is that you can’t change the C-70 volume with just any A-curve volume, you’ll stand to lose a lot of volume and for me, audio quality.

Thanks for reading.
Thank you so much for such an informative post. I have the same issue with the Volume Control of my C70 US Model. There is a play in the volume shaft, means it moves up and down when applied a little force, without rotating it. After doing it a couple of times, sound and level of both the channels becomes equal. Do I need to perform the same procedure what you mentioned in your post keeping in view its an US Model? OR Shall I install "A Curve 20KΩ" directly? OR Shall I install "V Curve 50KΩ" directly? I checked the service manual, it says 20K "Special" in Japanese (refer to the attached). Please note that I have no prior knowledge and experience of fixing volume control. Upon your advise, I will ask my technician to fix it accordingly. Many thanks in advance.
1742991062862.png
 
Do I need to perform the same procedure what you mentioned in your post keeping in view its an US Model?
I believe the wafers in your volume are intact and the only issue is the loose shaft. As such, to preserve the grand sound of your C-70, yes, you or your technician will have to transfer the wafers in the existing volume (both of them) to an identical RK27 body style Alps volume available from Mouser or some other parts outlets. For example:

Please note that the resistance value here does not matter since the wafers will be replaced with your C-70 originals. In this case, it doesn’t matter that your C-70 is the US version, yes, the resistance value is different but the taper is the same (special).

Luckily Alps still manufacture these style volumes in identical housings. Worth noting is that the shaft length of the volume in the above link is 25mm which is 5mm shorter than your present C-70 volume. This is not an issue, you can seat your volume knob a few millimeters further out on the shaft when re-installing. No one, including yourself, will ever notice. :biggrin:

If you install a 20K A-curve volume, the pre-amp will still work but the sound will lose its C-70 soul and character. I did this and immediately took it out as I couldn’t stomach the new sound, I don’t recommend doing this. I have not tried the V-curve and don’t even know if it’s available to public for sale, it may be. Nothing, however, will match the sound of your present volume special taper.

Also, please tell your technician that if he cuts out the lock washer at the end of the volume shaft (best use a router) carefully when he opens the volume, he’ll be able to reuse it when reassembling the volume in the new housing by pressing it closed or near closed before slipping it on. It will hold nicely. Alternatively, you could get new lock washers (M3 size I believe, not sure) from Amazon or other sources.

Please ask if you need more info. :thumbsup:
 
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I believe the wafers in your volume are intact and the only issue is the loose shaft. As such, to preserve the grand sound of your C-70, yes, you or your technician will have to transfer the wafers in the existing volume (both of them) to an identical RK27 body style Alps volume available from Mouser or some other parts outlets. For example:

Please note that the resistance value here does not matter since the wafers will be replaced with your C-70 originals. In this case, it doesn’t matter that your C-70 is the US version, yes, the resistance value is different but the taper is the same (special).

Luckily Alps still manufacture these style volumes in identical housings. Worth noting is that the shaft length of the volume in the above link is 25mm which is 5mm shorter than your present C-70 volume. This is not an issue, you can seat your volume knob a few millimeters further out on the shaft when re-installing. No one, including yourself, will ever notice. :biggrin:

If you install a 20K A-curve volume, the pre-amp will still work but the sound will lose its C-70 soul and character. I did this and immediately took it out as I couldn’t stomach the new sound, I don’t recommend doing this. I have not tried the V-curve and don’t even know if it’s available to public for sale, it may be. Nothing, however, will match the sound of your present volume special taper.

Also, please tell your technician that if he cuts out the lock washer at the end of the volume shaft (best use a router) carefully when he opens the volume, he’ll be able to reuse it when reassembling the volume in the new housing by pressing it closed or near closed before slipping it on. It will hold nicely. Alternatively, you could get new lock washers (M3 size I believe, not sure) from Amazon or other sources.

Please ask if you need more info. :thumbsup:
Thank you so much for your kind advise. For the time being I have two questions: 1) For oiling, did you use DeoxIT Fader Lube tube OR DeoxIT Fader Grease syringe DFG 213?
2) Just a little confusion. Did you use the RK27 series 20k ohms housing in your C70 or used RK27112A00CC housing? Because you mentioned in your post above RK21 series 20k ohms, which I could not find in ALPS database. Thanks
 
1) For oiling, did you use DeoxIT Fader Lube tube OR DeoxIT Fader Grease syringe DFG 213?
Neither one. Here in Japan, I used a sliding contact lube in liquid form. Please don’t used anything heavy or with higher viscosity as it’ll harden later and cause problems. Use whatever is lighter and can be applied with a small brush in small amounts. Not sure which one of Deoxit products corresponds to this. Maybe their website can help or someone will chime in.

EDIT: I suppose something like this would be fine:

Did you use the RK27 series 20k ohms housing in your C70 or used RK27112A00CC housing?
You're right and I apologize for any confusion. Indeed I used the RK27 series. The value does not matter because you’re taking the wafers out and inserting your own special taper wafers from your C-70 volume anyway. They’re identical in size. The important thing is the new housing that has no wobble in the shaft.

Before doing any of this, run a final check, if you haven’t done already, to make sure that the mounting nut (M11) on the front panel is tight. In some cases that can be the cause for wobble, etc.. in my case it wasn’t.
 
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