Cabinet Plans From My 800c

decorative detail. It's a very small gap between the main cabinet and the fascia. Serves no purpose other than to serve as a transition from the cab which is made up of plywood and veneer, and the fascia which is a solid piece of walnut.
 
notdigital said:
decorative detail. It's a very small gap between the main cabinet and the fascia. Serves no purpose other than to serve as a transition from the cab which is made up of plywood and veneer, and the fascia which is a solid piece of walnut.
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Yeah that's what I thought. I will be attempting to do one this week. Just wanted to know how they put that there and why haha. But it does look better with it there
 
Arthur Minor said:
Yeah that's what I thought. I will be attempting to do one this week. Just wanted to know how they put that there and why haha. But it does look better with it there
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Solid wood also tends to expand and contract with the seasons whereas veneered plywood is more dimensionally stable. Even a slight change in moisture and temperature can affect it. By leaving a gap, you will not notice any seasonal movement between the solid fascia and the plywood cabinet. If they designed it to be flush without a gap, you would notice the seasonal movement a little.
 
bberkom said:
Solid wood also tends to expand and contract with the seasons whereas veneered plywood is more dimensionally stable. Even a slight change in moisture and temperature can affect it. By leaving a gap, you will not notice any seasonal movement between the solid fascia and the plywood cabinet. If they designed it to be flush without a gap, you would notice the seasonal movement a little.
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ok makes perfect sense. So how did you join the front to the body?
 
bberkom said:
Solid wood also tends to expand and contract with the seasons whereas veneered plywood is more dimensionally stable. Even a slight change in moisture and temperature can affect it. By leaving a gap, you will not notice any seasonal movement between the solid fascia and the plywood cabinet. If they designed it to be flush without a gap, you would notice the seasonal movement a little.
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Sorry. I just read the answer. Thanks! I will try mine this week
 
Biscuits or dowels would work well to attach the fascia to the body. Regular old wood glue will hold up just fine by itself as long as you have good clean contact surfaces.
 
Nice, and awesome work in here. I been practicing my freecad skills, I did and exact replicas of the 500T and RS 2015, I plan to do some changes easier to do since I'm doing it using parametric. I would have done at least one this year, but my woodworking class went into caos, covid. But we'll be back.
 

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marloubow said:
Hi all!
I've been meaning to do this for quite some time and now at the 1st "birthday" of my 800c, I thought it as good as time as any...Happy Birthday! :banana:

The facia (front trim) was the most difficult and suggest practicing on some lesser wood stock until your Fisher faceplate fits just right. Mastering the miter joints is critical...unless your fond of wood putty. :D

I hope someone gets some use out of these.

If there is enough interest, I documented (with photos) the approach I took to build mine and would work up some sort of presentation.
It would be long and not for the faint of heart.

Thanks again for all the help.

Martin

P.s. I just took a bias reading the other day for the first time since last august...only V10 was off and just a tad at that. :thmbsp:

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Hi, I have a H.H. Scott 340B that I'm in need of a case. It would be great if someone has done this same type of blueprint for that receiver and post it here. Thanks.
Mark
 
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