Ceramic caps in 500C signal path.

Robert, you should have enough gain out of a 440MLA. The trick is balance. The Fisher phono stage has an upper bass hump and another hump from 11-13k. The AT may not be a good match. You might do better with a Grado or something.

If you didn't get the proper decoder ring in a cereal box as a kid with the secret handshake to get into the loyal order of water buffalo, then you might consider an outboard phono stage. If you use a digital source on the line input, you might consider running an outboard phono stage into the tape mon input.
Don
 
If you use a digital source on the line input, you might consider running an outboard phono stage into the tape mon input.
Don

Don, this prompts a question: can you use the "tape head" input for a outboard phono stage, instead of the tape monitor? I have a tape deck already connected there.
 
If you really want to change some caps get rid of the two black IMPs in the power supply, they have a reputation for blowing up.
 
If you really want to change some caps get rid of the two black IMPs in the power supply, they have a reputation for blowing up.

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

Could not agree more. After output coupling caps, those are usually the first ones I go after.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Crunch,
I haven't tried the tape head input. I would suspect that there's some kind of filter on there. Check the schematic. You wouldn't blow anything up to try plugging the tape player into there. I think the function of tape head is real-time playback while recording. It may very well function as a tape mon2.
 
Tape head inputs will generally be equalized for NAB playback from a tape deck. Consider it similar to a phono input but with different equalization applied. Line leve devices will over drive it.

Cheers,

David
 
Pyramid brand capacitors, they are black with yellow text. One of my fisher 400's has them the other had white American Radionics.
 
Pyramid brand capacitors, they are black with yellow text. One of my fisher 400's has them the other had white American Radionics.

Both brands that are in much need of replacement. I have recently found some American Radionic caps that are good. But the common denominator seems to be an amplifier that is cosmetically very clean which I equate to "kept in a cool conditioned air environment with little use" thing.

Scott used both brands. Pyramid in the early Scott 299 series after bumble bee and later, American Radionic Ceracap. I hate to take them out but I want my amp to be "Blueprinted" as they say in the hotrod world. Not hot rodded, just blueprinted.
 
Later today, I will try to take some pix of the IMP, bumble bee and Ceracap capacitors and post them for others to see. I will write me a note...
 
White American Radionics blow out one end. I've seen two go. One blew down towards the ground lead and because the outer round casing is so hard, it was hard to find the trouble. I've never seen a black one go, but then again I haven't been at this that long.
 
The neat thing about the American Radionics is that they are easy to dissasemble and unwind the foils and mylar and see just how they are put together. I could never get a bumblebee or similar types of caps to unwind.
 
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