Craigslist Smaller Advent Loudspeakers

It just seems so obvious to put in a fuse or jump the fuse holder. Just because it is mounted above the speaker terminals in no way means each side is connected to each terminal. Looks like just one wire is connected to the fuse holder indicating that it is in series with one of the speaker wires.
 
Here is a closeup of the fuse holder. I cant see any evidence that it's wiring goes into the cabinet.

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Here it is wired directly to the binding post, including the recommended fuse.
When wired like this, I get no tweeter output. Woofer sounds wonderful.

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Here it is wired to use the fuse holder. With the fuse in place, there is no tweeter output, but the woofer plays. Same as above.
No output at all from either driver when the fuse is removed.

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I'll open it up this weekend and inspect it (with photos).
 
I don't think I would put polys in them. Stick with dayton lytics, maybe w/a poly bypass. Shouldn't be a need to replace anything else.
 
:eek: Well here is what I found in the first box!

I think it used to say 12uF.
Anybody see this happen before?

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And here is the second box

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Yikes! These cheapo black-red caps - - with names like Callins or Temple - - - show up in many late 60's and early 70's speakers and should always be replaced. I've seen one previous report where one of these caps exploded in a KLH cabinet, but not quite as enthusiastically as your example.

I have a pair of green tweeter Smaller Advents and the caps in mine are 8uF and 16uF. In your second pic, there are other mysteries - - what is that black stubby thing to the left and above the resistor, and why is there a third (lilac colored) cap shown toward the bottom of the photo?
 
Do both xovers have the extra cap (blue thingy)? Did the 12uf temple cap explode or did both blue caps explode?
 
I think the black thingy and the blue thingy began life, together, as a Nichicon 10uF 50V NP.

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The other cabinet doesn't have one
 
Do both xovers have the extra cap (blue thingy)? Did the 12uf temple cap explode or did both blue caps explode?

In one box the 12uF exploded. No blue cap in that box.
In the other box., the blue cap exploded but both temples seem "whole"

I wonder what gear was driving these when it happened, and what song was playing!
 
Wow! somebody was really messing up a set of speakers. Get all that crap outa there and put in some fresh caps per our conversation.

I can't figure what the po was trying to do:crazy:
 
Wow! somebody was really messing up a set of speakers. Get all that crap outa there and put in some fresh caps per our conversation.

I can't figure what the po was trying to do:crazy:
It was an older guy I got them from. I don't think he knew much about them. It's a mystery.

I'm going to fix it though!!!
 
No wonder the tweeters aren't working! I'm not sure a singular overpowered/abusive event is needed to blow those out like that. It could be simply an aging/degradation of the cap to a certain point that then met normal program material.

But yes, replace all those caps. You can replace the blue and black paralleled ones with a single cap that equals the sum of present one. But best to verify first what they were supposed to be, from any crossover info out there.

Anyway, what you found is one argument to avoid non-polar electrolytics (NPE) in there. Not that common, but you know, you might end giving these to your kids at some point down the road, so for a few bucks per cap vs. 50 cents, it is probably worth it.
 
I have seen some weird things inside of Smaller Advents - - both green (early) and orange (later) tweeter versions - - and my thinking is that the only non-original tinkering by the previous owner is the addition of fuse holders. I think all of your caps are original, but there is only one (8 uF) where I can read the value. You first need to disassemble a little more to ascertain all of the cap values before you proceed further. Below I have attached one of the crossovers from my green tweeter Advents - - the other speaker is identical except that instead of the 16uF cap, there are two paralleled 8uF caps.

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Each speaker has two black Temples. One 8uF and one 12uF.

One has an additional Nichicon 10uF in parallel with the 12uF. (12 + 10 = 22???)

Is it possible that the 12 opened and someone just put a 10 in there without removing the bad (?) one?

I think I'm going to put 8's and 12's in each and see how it goes.
 
I agree with ra.ra that there was quite a bit of either continuing experimentation or parts substitutions going on at Advent (same with Bose). I've seen paralleled caps as mentioned, and paralleled resistors to bring some of the old 4Ω sandcast resistors down to 3Ω. That bluish Nichicon is a toss up, though, and hard to rule out it being a later mod, for the reasons you said.

There is a great similarity between the Smaller Advent crossover and that in the OLA when the latter is switched into the "increase" or "extended" configuration. Using the photos above, the hot lead from the outside comes in on the lower left, with the red wire going off to the woofer (presumably through an inductor first, probably mounted somewhere else on the cabinet). The tweeter leg starts at the same hot lead, first through the 16µF cap and then through a 8µF cap in parallel with the resistor (3Ω in the OLA). From there, the tweeter leg continues to the hot side of the tweeter via a yellow wire, and the black wire is the return (for both the woofer and tweeter). The button inductor on the right is in a shunt configuration, straddling the hot (yellow) and neutral (black) leads to the tweeter.

I think going with 12s and 8s is a reasonable choice. Once you get things working, you can always consider tacking in another 4µF in parallel with the 12s if you are curious.

After recapping a recently acquired older pair of OLAs that had the same black caps with the red ends on them, and listening to them, I was reminded of the sonic quality that Henry Kloss was able to deliver to the market for not very much money. The bass is deep and tight and defined, and the high end, while not bright, is well dispersed and transitions so smoothly from the woofers (then again, I am old enough that I don't think I hear much beyond 10KHz). I think you will like these once you get them fixed up.
 
Yes. Work backwards from the drivers. First thing to do is disconnect the tweeters from the speaker, put a ohm meter tester on the two tweeter lugs, and see if they are passing current. Let us know the ohm readings.

Here, by the way, is a crossover schematic:

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And here's a pic of an OEM crossover i once rebuilt. Values differ from the schematic i just put up. The unreadable capacitor was 16 uf.
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You can bypass the fuse holder by connecting straight to the speaker terminals. If you use the fuse holder, it is obviously connected to both the woofer and tweeter.
 
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