just curious, is it common practice with that model to put in fuses rated to blow sooner than spec (2 amp instead of 2.5 amp)?
either way it sort of seems like you should take the early blowing of the right channel's mid fuse as an indicator that there is something different about the signal going to that section of the speaker (or to that speaker as a whole, not just that frequency range even).
I don't own that model, but since there's an active crossover then you must be using a different power amp for the emims than the lows and/or highs.
some diagnosis technics I'd try:
so have you tried swapping the channels of that power amp (just use the left channel for the right speaker and vice versa, changing both the inputs into the amp AND the outputs to the speakers, so it's effectively working just the same way (the amp doesn't care which you decide to make the right or left of course). that's one way of seeing if your emims' power amp is the issue.
then of course try swapping the electronic crossover's outputs between the left and right for the emim section. and just reverse the power amp at either the ins or the outs to make up for it (I'm not thinking this through too carefully but off the top of my head I would think this won't affect sound if all's working perfectly). that could show an issue with the electronic crossover for that range.
Unfortunately a final test might be a lot of work - swapping the speaker's passive crossover between each speaker, but that's overkill and there are definitely other things you can do to diagnose it first. however in the name of getting it right... it's definitely something you want to fix... then at least my first two suggestions should help to remove both your power amp and electronic crossover from the equation. Assuming it's a line level (ie: preamp level) crossover, not a speaker-level crossover, in which case you can probably work out the differences in how you'd swap channels for the same set of results (if not, and if you like my concepts, just ask pls).
while I haven't used that setup and don't know if there may be commonly accepted quirks to it that require occasional fuse replacement, there is NO way that any speaker should ever blow a fuse, certainly not with the frequency you're talking about (although I'd never put in a fuse rated lower than spec either, that's just asking for fuses to blow unnecessarily I would think, and unless you're aware of a problem with your speaker that will kill it with rated power input, I don't really see where it will help protect your speaker as long as it's operating properly). I've never blown a speaker fuse in my entire life, including with pro audio in live sound and in recording studios (and of course in my home). and yes, I play very loud sometimes (although I try not to clip anything ever).
cheers,
Don
