DCM TF600 score and questions

Actually, one more question from the updated diagram. Is the mid woofer the one freestanding or the one with the tweeter mounted over it?
 
markshan said:
That helps so much. Thanks for adding the wire colors. Now just one more question that should be obvious but I want to be certain. At each driver, it is the negative connection that is going to the ground, is that correct? Thanks a million!
Click to expand...
Thanks, but the credit goes to someone on another forum.

Yes, the negative goes to ground. Nothing is wired out of phase on the 600s.

The mid-woofer is the one with the tweeter mounted coaxially in front of it. The woofer-woofer is below them.
 
loose ends said:
All of the caps on the crossover are film but one, a 15uf electrolytic. Leave the film caps they should be fine. As far as the lamps are concerned I replace them on every crossover I do only because I have measured many and find from time to time different resistance readings. They are cheap and you get 4 per package (MCM carries the correct ones).
Click to expand...

Would you know the part number of the lamps from MCM? Is there a specific brand of cap you favor to replace 15uf? Is there anything else for this project that I should order from them while I'm at it? TIA.
 
markshan said:
Would you know the part number of the lamps from MCM? Is there a specific brand of cap you favor to replace 15uf? Is there anything else for this project that I should order from them while I'm at it? TIA.
Click to expand...
The best 15uF electrolytic caps I'm aware of are these from Erse. They have a 3% dissipation factor, which is considered pretty decent for electrolytic caps. The downside is they have a $20 minimum order.

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/NonPolarElectrolyticAll/ANP10A-05-15-0-PB

After that the Mundorf MUNDORF-71871 15uF caps here ...

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html


If you decide to replace all the caps on the TF-600 crossover boards you will be over Erse's $20 minimum by ordering their Pulse-X metallized polypropylene film caps, which have a very low (almost immeasurable dissipation factor) and 3% tolerance. Each TF-600 board uses three 3.0uF and two 1.5uF caps.

So you'd need six of these (the 250V version is out of stock)...
http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseXAll/MPX40-03-3-00

... and four of these (again, the 250V version is OOS)...
http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseXAll/MPX40-03-1-50

You're now up to $24.16, but you may as well put in a couple of new resistors as well. At $0.35 each, these 1.8 ohm resistors won't break the bank. You'll need two per board.

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/WireWoundResistors10w/EWR10-05-1-8-PB

Add a couple of lamp fuses and you'll have a brand new set of crossovers. :D
 
I think that's the exact route I want to take with mine, once I get the tweeters finished up. Thanks, doc, for the advice!
 
jhoyt said:
I think that's the exact route I want to take with mine, once I get the tweeters finished up. Thanks, doc, for the advice!
Click to expand...
Sure, glad to help.

markshan said:
Yes, the lamp fuses are what I'm not sure which to get. Thanks for all of the other advice though.
Click to expand...
The schematic calls for 1.4 amp fuses, but I've no idea where to get replacements. Several places still carry lamp fuses, but I've not seen any that are 1.4 amps. Sorry.
 
markshan said:
I have a Leak Stereo 20 that I will try with these. If you think $15 for these is a good deal, you should have seen that one. I have a thread over in the tubes column. It was about a year ago for that score. Wonder what I'll find next year?
Click to expand...

No garbage there, Mark.:D
Leak is the one that got away from me in the mid eighties.:tears: I was clueless then.

I've got a pair of the lil' brothers to the TF600s, the TF400s. They sound excellent on lower power tube amps. Magnavox 175 at 13-14 watts per channel make 'em sing for me. I've tried them on my amp150 at 25-30watts and they sound great.
 
Back together and playing. I have to say these sound even better than I had hoped. I place them among the best sounding speakers I've heard.
 
Right on! My TF-600 project is currently stalled, because I completely stripped the cabinets, changed all the tweeters to the TangBand silk dome, then... scored some other speakers that have taken all my attention. But mine are together and ready to play, just nekkid as a jaybird and on original caps.

It will be an interesting shootout (when I have time), TF-600 vs. Technics SB-7000A.
 
Our testing was done with them naked. It seemed reasonable to me to make sure everything was good to go before fussing with the sock again.
 
BTW, those Tang Bang weren't as "drop in" as we were led to believe. I ended up caulking the gaps. Overkill or did you do the same? It also bummed me out slightly that there weren't speaker clips and they had to be soldered in.
 
Which Tang Band silk dome tweeters did you guys get? Got a link? Do you have a pic showing the two tweeters for comparison's sake?
 
Last edited:
Here's what I had to do: trim the faceplates down to the same size as the originals, solder connection leads to the backside. (I used 1" wires, tinning the free end. The connector went over the tinned wire very securely. Carefully routed the leads, as now they're 1" longer. That way, there's little-to-no force exerted on the actual solder connection on the tweeters themselves.) Also did have to caulk an excess gap on the side tweeters. I didn't think it was a big deal, as the gap wasn't very big. I wish I would have trimmed those faceplates custom to fit, rather than just square.

I don't see how that TB tweeter just mentioned would ever work for the front-firing tweeters. The magnet structure is much too deep, and could very well make contact with the midrange cone. Anyway, dispersion characteristics would be pretty bad due to the semi horn loading. The silk dome TB tweeter that Mark and I used was (supposed to be) developed as a "drop-in" replacement for the original mylar.
 
That's basically what I did except I soldered right to the speakers and didn't cut down the plastic any. I only replaced one of the rear tweeters on each side. A fair amount of caulk was involved. I agree that using these on the front would have been a challenge. All minor quibbles though as I am thrilled with how these speakers sound.
 
Last edited:
jhoyt said:
solder connection leads to the backside. (I used 1" wires, tinning the free end. The connector went over the tinned wire very securely. Carefully routed the leads, as now they're 1" longer. That way, there's little-to-no force exerted on the actual solder connection on the tweeters themselves.)
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have any stress on the solder joint to the voice coil. They provided bare discs next to the solder joint so that you could make the connection without risk of dropping a VC lead. I would have liked to have an actual lug connector, but I did think that was a nice second choice.
 
I wanted the "mods" to be 100% reversible, at least regarding the tweeters. That's why I didn't cut off the quick disconnect lugs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom