The stuff which came off the plate at 6:22 of the video is what I encountered inside my generator carburetor, a lot of it! Thankfully there was no corrosion.
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Does anyone run Ethanol Free fuel in their cars????
- Thread starter nolasally
- Start date
H2oman7.62mm
Super Member
Not in my vehicles because they get driven often, but I started running ethanol free in my mowers earlier this Spring and they run much better because of it.
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
as far as i know over here only 1 company sells real petrol these days and it is very costly . a place i do work for is an agent for it . yjat stuff can be left a couple of years and still be good unlike this e5 e10 whatever along with modern diesel that lasts 3 months .
saying that i haven't tried it as of yet . e5 super seems to be not too bad if not left too long .
saying that i haven't tried it as of yet . e5 super seems to be not too bad if not left too long .
I knew Gas/Petrol had a 'life' - in other words goes bad and progressively worse after maybe a year or more, but I didn't know the newer formulations went bad as well. I get the impression you are talking in months, rather than years for this to happen.
This reminds me when I could buy 5 Star Petrol, (in the UK) one of my cars responded very well to a tankful.
93SCMax
Active Member
No, you are probably pretty smart, especially if it's only $0.25/gal more.
Down here, it's closer to $1.00/gal more so I only run it exclusively in all my power tools (chain saws, blowers, weed eaters, mowers, rototillers, etc.). I have no power tool issues due to fuel. One Echo chain saw is over 40 years old and still running strong. My cars call for premium fuel, and I burn though a tank fast enough, that ethanol free isn't warranted in them.
If you want to avoid moisture build-up in the fuel system, ethanol free is the way to go.
@93SCMax you’re correct regarding cost. In my area gas in approx:
87 octane 3.50g
91 octane 4.00g
Ethanol free 4.25g
I use to just use 87 octane with 91 in the winter as it’s driven far less. Now paying 75 cents more vs 87 octane all year long. Cheap peace of mind.
The car in question is fuel injected.
87 octane 3.50g
91 octane 4.00g
Ethanol free 4.25g
I use to just use 87 octane with 91 in the winter as it’s driven far less. Now paying 75 cents more vs 87 octane all year long. Cheap peace of mind.
The car in question is fuel injected.
I think you’re doing exactly what you should. Engines that are used rarely and have fuel in the tanks will have the gas absorb water. Non ethanol gas is much more resistant to that.
I know. Cost me a lot in repairs to my boat engine till I switched to non ethanol gas.
Best of luck!
Pio1980
AK Member
Ethanol otoh, can scavenge moisture from the fuel system to be expelled with the exhaust. Occasionally alternating the two types makes sense to me.
In the early '70's, I work at a bulk chemical distribution company (solvents, lacquer thinners, etc.). We would often add a gallon, or so, of methanol to our tanks, just for that reason.
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
here is an article about diesel https://www.iims.org.uk/sticky-dies...efzJbzfg-ugqM6ylBKAoxtlIHLdAadCyKGjm7xqpJWIl8I knew Gas/Petrol had a 'life' - in other words goes bad and progressively worse after maybe a year or more, but I didn't know the newer formulations went bad as well. I get the impression you are talking in months, rather than years for this to happen.
This reminds me when I could buy 5 Star Petrol, (in the UK) one of my cars responded very well to a tankful.
@javis as stated the added cost to fill my 10g tank with ethanol free fuel is about 7.00.
A 8oz. can of Sta-Bil is around 7.00 which would treat 2 tanks of fuel. So the cost savings is only 3.50 per fill-up.
I still think ethanol free gas is better than E10 w/ fuel stabilizer!!
A 8oz. can of Sta-Bil is around 7.00 which would treat 2 tanks of fuel. So the cost savings is only 3.50 per fill-up.
I still think ethanol free gas is better than E10 w/ fuel stabilizer!!
grillebilly
Empty Head
Ethanol free gas can go bad just as easily as the corn fuel. What alcohol does is it erodes fuel systems. It will eat right through metals. For some reason, if it sits, it’s much worse. I bought a power washer last year and it says to run it every 3 months or the warranty is void.
How to Remove Ethanol from Gasoline (from sciencing.com):
Anyone with a sufficient understanding of solubility can extract the ethanol from gasoline using little more than water. Chemists have an old axiom that “like dissolves like” with regard to polarity. That is, polar compounds dissolve other polar compounds and nonpolar compounds dissolve other nonpolar compounds. Water is polar, whereas gasoline is nonpolar. Ethanol exhibits moderate polarity and mixes with gasoline. The ethanol, however, dissolves better in water. Thus, if a person mixes gasoline and water, the two liquids will separate into layers with the water on the bottom. Vigorous mixing of the mixture, however, will transfer the ethanol from the gasoline to the water, where it is more soluble. The separation is then just a matter of “pouring off” the gasoline. Chemists perform this operation somewhat more elegantly with a piece of glassware called a separatory funnel, which simply consists of a cone-shaped flask with a rotating valve at the bottom.
Fill the separatory funnel about one-fourth full with water, making sure the stopcock is closed so no liquid flows out the bottom of the funnel. Then fill the funnel to about the half-full point with gasoline using a plastic funnel to prevent spillage during the transfer.
Insert the funnel’s stopper, then, while holding one finger over the stopper, invert the funnel and shake it two or three times. With the funnel still inverted, rotate the stopcock to the open position to vent any gases or fumes that may have formed.
Repeat the shaking and venting process from step 2 two or three additional times.
Turn the funnel so that the stopcock is facing down and allow the two layers to separate for 1 to 2 minutes or until two distinct layers become visible.
Hold the funnel over a small glass jar, then open the stopcock and allow the bottom water layer to drain into the jar. Label the jar “water/ethanol” with an adhesive label. Then pour the gasoline layer out through the top of the flask into a second glass jar labeled “gasoline.”
Add about 1 gram of anhydrous magnesium sulfate powder to the jar containing the gasoline and swirl for 30 seconds. The magnesium sulfate will absorb any water that may still be mixed with the gasoline and form a solid clump in the bottom of the jar.
Place a piece of filter paper in a glass funnel and place the funnel on top of an empty glass jar. Slowly pour the gasoline through the filter paper. The filter paper will catch any solid pieces of magnesium sulfate. The jar should now contain gasoline that is free of both ethanol and water.
Anyone with a sufficient understanding of solubility can extract the ethanol from gasoline using little more than water. Chemists have an old axiom that “like dissolves like” with regard to polarity. That is, polar compounds dissolve other polar compounds and nonpolar compounds dissolve other nonpolar compounds. Water is polar, whereas gasoline is nonpolar. Ethanol exhibits moderate polarity and mixes with gasoline. The ethanol, however, dissolves better in water. Thus, if a person mixes gasoline and water, the two liquids will separate into layers with the water on the bottom. Vigorous mixing of the mixture, however, will transfer the ethanol from the gasoline to the water, where it is more soluble. The separation is then just a matter of “pouring off” the gasoline. Chemists perform this operation somewhat more elegantly with a piece of glassware called a separatory funnel, which simply consists of a cone-shaped flask with a rotating valve at the bottom.
Fill the separatory funnel about one-fourth full with water, making sure the stopcock is closed so no liquid flows out the bottom of the funnel. Then fill the funnel to about the half-full point with gasoline using a plastic funnel to prevent spillage during the transfer.
Insert the funnel’s stopper, then, while holding one finger over the stopper, invert the funnel and shake it two or three times. With the funnel still inverted, rotate the stopcock to the open position to vent any gases or fumes that may have formed.
Repeat the shaking and venting process from step 2 two or three additional times.
Turn the funnel so that the stopcock is facing down and allow the two layers to separate for 1 to 2 minutes or until two distinct layers become visible.
Hold the funnel over a small glass jar, then open the stopcock and allow the bottom water layer to drain into the jar. Label the jar “water/ethanol” with an adhesive label. Then pour the gasoline layer out through the top of the flask into a second glass jar labeled “gasoline.”
Add about 1 gram of anhydrous magnesium sulfate powder to the jar containing the gasoline and swirl for 30 seconds. The magnesium sulfate will absorb any water that may still be mixed with the gasoline and form a solid clump in the bottom of the jar.
Place a piece of filter paper in a glass funnel and place the funnel on top of an empty glass jar. Slowly pour the gasoline through the filter paper. The filter paper will catch any solid pieces of magnesium sulfate. The jar should now contain gasoline that is free of both ethanol and water.
yeah, saturate it with water until you get phase separation, pull the gas off the top. The problem is the octane ends up much lower and what you pull off probably isn't going to work all that well in anything more high tech than a lawn mower.
Homebrewed, non-ethanol fuel: A potentially deadly DIY | Fuel Facts
Look hard enough, and you can find plenty of videos on how to make your own non-ethanol fuel at home, but doing so can be harmful to your health–and your engine.
classicmotorsports.com
Not a concern for you, since you can run regular, but the most important factor in the Ethanol/pure gas decision is to make sure you have enough octane for whatever you are using it on. Pinging seems innocent, until you think about what pre-detonation (explosion during the piston upswing) does to the engine. If pure gas octane is sufficient, pure gas is the better choice all day long for power, mileage, and fuel longevity. Since you don't have any octane concerns (don't need premium), I would run pure gas in everything all the time (though maybe a tank of E10 once in a while per @Pio1980 's drying out point).
The fact that your pure gas is only a $0.25 more a gallon makes it almost free. You will get about 3% better gas mileage with pure gas, so if you're paying $4.00 a gallon, that will yield around $0.12 worth of extra mileage per gallon you will get from pure gas, so it only costs you $0.13 extra in practice. Live large!! -- spend the $0.13!!
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Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
I don't think you're foolish. It's your business. Why would I care?
I can only say I do not. I have had to rebuild a couple carburetors due to gummy build up, so maybe I should; but I can't bring myself to care. I have a 64 Plymouth Valiant; I put regular pump gas in it. I put premium in my 2007 Piaggio scooter because it's high-compression and requires it. But whatever people want to do is fine.
I've noted that like many things, people develop rituals and get quite attached to them. Then they invent reasons to support their rituals. Which is fine, as long as no one tries to make me do what they do.