Hi, there has been either a squeal or internal noise from I believe the motor of my Dual 1019. I had the thing worked on, lubricated about 2 years ago, and have used it lightly since that time. The servicing of the thing was much more expensive than I would have liked. There was an earlier post on lubing the bearings, I tried to remove the cap of the motor housing to get into the motor to see what I could do, and couldn't seem to get the top off, and didn't want to force it. I have a service manual, but it's mostly just a description of parts, etc. I'm tempted to just give up on the thing; I have had trouble with the autoreturn, etc. I suppose if you know exactly how to work on these things they can work like a charm, but I've had much better luck with several ARXAs, and a Sansui SR-222, which I really like. I also gave my son an inexpensive, but sturdy, Sony Direct drive that has been completely trouble free. Any advice on the bearings, motor noise, etc?
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Dual 1019 motor noise; Just give up on Duals?
- Thread starter ejvd
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Fred Longworth
audio fanatic
The problem with the autoreturn is usually that the end-of-play trip pawl (which is a two piece assembly) has not been properly cleaned and lubricated for optimal friction.
* * * * *
MOTOR SERVICE:
Remove the motor from its three-point mount. Take off the pulley with a jeweler's screwdriver. Mark the motor housing and stator with a Sharpie pen, so you'll get it back together EXACTLY as it was.
Take out the screws and nuts that hold the motor clamshell together.
Then have one person hold the motor while the other removes the BOTTOM motor casing by whaking with a flat-bladed screwdriver placed at a shallow angle to the stator and a mallet. You must go back and forth from side to side to do this properly. It will come off gradually.
Remove the rotor. Resurface rotor shaft top and bottom with #1000 sandpaper or finer. Clean shafts with alcohol. Use alcohol to clean the top bushing and to thoroughly scrub the bottom bushing and thrust plate.
Relube both bottom and top bearings with high temperature machine oil.
Reinsert rotor. Hand-squeeze the clamshells together in the correct orientation (remember your locating slashes with the Sharpie), and then use the mallet to knock the bottom plate back into position. About 90% of the way, you'll be able to reinsert the screws and rethread the nuts. Final tightening is done with the screws and nuts.
Reinstall motor pulley. Give it a pull to the side, but with a swirling motion to reseat it in the top bearing. Now let the motor run. You may wish to add a little more machine oil to the top bearing.
Best,
Fred
* * * * *
MOTOR SERVICE:
Remove the motor from its three-point mount. Take off the pulley with a jeweler's screwdriver. Mark the motor housing and stator with a Sharpie pen, so you'll get it back together EXACTLY as it was.
Take out the screws and nuts that hold the motor clamshell together.
Then have one person hold the motor while the other removes the BOTTOM motor casing by whaking with a flat-bladed screwdriver placed at a shallow angle to the stator and a mallet. You must go back and forth from side to side to do this properly. It will come off gradually.
Remove the rotor. Resurface rotor shaft top and bottom with #1000 sandpaper or finer. Clean shafts with alcohol. Use alcohol to clean the top bushing and to thoroughly scrub the bottom bushing and thrust plate.
Relube both bottom and top bearings with high temperature machine oil.
Reinsert rotor. Hand-squeeze the clamshells together in the correct orientation (remember your locating slashes with the Sharpie), and then use the mallet to knock the bottom plate back into position. About 90% of the way, you'll be able to reinsert the screws and rethread the nuts. Final tightening is done with the screws and nuts.
Reinstall motor pulley. Give it a pull to the side, but with a swirling motion to reseat it in the top bearing. Now let the motor run. You may wish to add a little more machine oil to the top bearing.
Best,
Fred
I had some serious rumble/squeal coming from my 1019 motor. I took it apart and gave it a major lubrication with standard motor oil. I was a bit worried about prying the clam shell open, but it was easy to get back together and now it is very silent. I did the same thing with my Garrard 301 motor. I think these old school tables are pretty robustly built and can take it even if it feels like you're being heavy handed with them.
captouch
Addicted Member
Nice to see you live in the Bay Area. I may need you to work on my 1019
Yeah, I've met a handful of local AK'ers in the area - all cool guys!
I do what I can, DIY-wise, and learn a lot from others here, but anything I can do to help, let me know. I've never deconstructed the mechanical bits of a Dual though, just the motor lube and what was required to access it.
Thanks. I'll let you know. So far, it's working quite nicely. Had a bit of noise when I first got it but after repeated spinnings it's very quiet now. However not being the most mechanical fella in the world it's nice to know that if need be I might be able to get some help locally if things go south.
Not mentioned in this thread is that the idler and the inner surface of the platter can be a source of noise. The idler may need truing or even replacement (though unlikely). You can resurface them with some light sanding.
I won't quote it all but there is good info in this thread that applies: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=360764
I won't quote it all but there is good info in this thread that applies: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=360764
illinoisteve
Super Member
If you get the noise with the platter off and the motor running, then you know it isn't coming from the idler and inner platter rim.
When I first got my 1229, the motor would seem fine, but after a very few record sides it would start cheeping like a nestful of canaries, and pretty loud to. I considered replacing the motor, but bohey advised me on how to get the motor apart and clean the bearings.
I thought the clamshell covers would never come off, by the way, but finally after one more whack they loosened, and things went pretty smoothly from there. Bohey suggested a different way of cleaning the bearings which I will pass on in case it is helpful. Take a cotton swab, dip it in very light machine oil, press it into the bearing, twist it around, take it out. If it's dirty (it will be the first several times), do it again with a new swab. You do that for each bearing (top and bottom) until the swabs come out perfectly white. The motor on my 1229 has been, quiet, and strong ever since.
It is intimidating the first time, but you'll have quite a feeling of accomplishment afterward. You'll want to do it again, except that motor probably won't make another sound for decades. Consequently, you'll have to find another old Dual to refurbish. And so it goes....
When I first got my 1229, the motor would seem fine, but after a very few record sides it would start cheeping like a nestful of canaries, and pretty loud to. I considered replacing the motor, but bohey advised me on how to get the motor apart and clean the bearings.
I thought the clamshell covers would never come off, by the way, but finally after one more whack they loosened, and things went pretty smoothly from there. Bohey suggested a different way of cleaning the bearings which I will pass on in case it is helpful. Take a cotton swab, dip it in very light machine oil, press it into the bearing, twist it around, take it out. If it's dirty (it will be the first several times), do it again with a new swab. You do that for each bearing (top and bottom) until the swabs come out perfectly white. The motor on my 1229 has been, quiet, and strong ever since.
It is intimidating the first time, but you'll have quite a feeling of accomplishment afterward. You'll want to do it again, except that motor probably won't make another sound for decades. Consequently, you'll have to find another old Dual to refurbish. And so it goes....
illinoisteve
Super Member
You have to dismount the motor from where the shaft goes up through from the bottom of the table, but you don't necessarily have to disconnect the wiring to the motor. I didn't. It did take a lot of care to be tapping on the clamshell halves in a way that put no strain on the wiring.
Roy Skinner
Active Member
AKer knowledge is amazing. Glad mine is quiet.
No, I just did the job with the motor in the unit. Clamshells come apart, lube and job done.
