Electrical Capacity Check

FauxHall

FauxHall

Super Member
Went through the electrical supply and connections for my music room. Found I had a single ring circuit for the wall plugs in the room but that the overhead lights were on another circuit.

Seems like I've got plenty of power margin at about 20% of the breaker interrupt capacity.

Also thought I'd separate the loads against the available plugs based on possible noise generation and loadings. Only one plug is within reach of the rack; the others have to be accessed via extension cords. I might upgrade the extension cords and strips to some sort of conditioners but that's a future project.

System Electrical Loadings
- Single ring circuit, 5 outlets,
- Breaker rating of 20 amp (20A x 240V = 4800W)

Device and Wattage
Pre-amp 35W
Power amp (R8) 280W
TT 8W
SACD 32W
HAP-Z1ES 35W
MR77 tuner 35W
Sony Tuner 20W
DAC - Gummy 20W
Lighting
- five at 50W each = 250W

total room load - 715 Watts


Connection scheme

Outlet under window (Power amp) 280W
First strip (Preamp and lights) 285W
Second strip (SACD, TT, HAP, etc) 150W
 

Attachments

Register to hide this ad
A couple of thoughts.
First, you can only continuously draw 80% of the amount of the breaker rating.
Clearly you can utilize peaks up to the rating.
Those are all max ratings of components and you won't be drawing that much power ( realistically ever).
Also, you're not likely to be using all components at once ( think about it, DAC, TT, Tuner...., chances are you'll only be using one source at a time.
It's good practice to keep your gear on the same phase even if using separate circuits.
My thought would be , you'll likely be better off using a good power strip than running extension cords from other outlets.
 
I am assuming UAE is 240v? If so, it seems likely you have tons of capacity with what you have. Even on 120 I wouldn't worry about it..
 
The lighting is all resistive halogen bulbs so no noise there to get into the phono preamplifier section.

I'd feel better with all the digital and wall warts on a separate strip from the preamplifier. Even electrical hash attenuate over distance.

The total loads are conservative but I do have most of the gear on and warming during a listening session, even if I'm not using its signal.

Good to know about steady state rating as 80% of interrupt.
 
FauxHall said:
I've just proved that to myself.
Yes, 240v 50 Hz.
Click to expand...
I hope you didn't prove that with your fingers! :D As for capacity, having 240 volt circuits doubles it from what we use over here. As for interference, I don't know what sorts of filters are available, as I have not looked into it myself yet.. Maybe someone else will come in with ideas on that.
 
Totally missed the 240v:dunno:
I have a question.
Do you find noise an issue.
Filters can be great if you actually have a problem.
If you don't hear noise or interference it's not necessary. Most gear has adequate filtering in their power supplies. Obviously it's not a one size fits all situation.
 
Your gear is probably pulling less than what it is rated for. One of these things is an easy way to get a handle on actual power draw, obviously you would need a different model. ->Killawatt

Alobar said:
I hope you didn't prove that with your fingers! :D As for capacity, having 240 volt circuits doubles it from what we use over here. As for interference, I don't know what sorts of filters are available, as I have not looked into it myself yet.. Maybe someone else will come in with ideas on that.
Click to expand...

Actually it’s virtually the same as in the US. Double the voltage with half the Watts, 20 Amps is 20 Amps.
 
ruffian said:
Your gear is probably pulling less than what it is rated for. One of these things is an easy way to get a handle on actual power draw, obviously you would need a different model. ->Killawatt



Actually it’s virtually the same as in the US. Double the voltage with half the Watts, 20 Amps is 20 Amps.
Click to expand...
The OP worded his question in terms of capacity so I went with it. His gear is drawing half the amps of 120v of the same model, and same with everything else on the circuit. Hence the extra capacity
 
The room has only one circuit for all five wall plugs.
The Klipsch speakers are very sensitive so I hear noise from the tweeters with no signal. Probably tube rush but quieter would be better. The 50 cent word is "thermionic."

Different plug arrangements are cheaper than new gear. At zero marginal cost, it is worth a try.

My inspiration for the connection arrangements is Sony. My TOTL Sony sources both have two internal power transformers. One is for the digital section and the other is for the analog. Other manufacturers do the same thing for their better gear. By putting digital sources and wall warts (both presumed with more power line noise generation possibilities) on a separate power strip connected to a separate wall outlet, albeit on the same circuit, I MIGHT be attenuating the noise to my sensitive tube pre-amp and the tube power amp. Of course, the electric GRID is ultimately one humongous circuit so where do you stop?

The power demands are from the manufacturers' specifications and are in Watts. At twice the voltage of 120V, one needs only half the amps - but we all knew that.

As anyone had experience with PS Audio's "Noise Harvester" or equivalent? Conceptually seems sound but a hundred bucks each??? I live in an apartment building so lots of noise-creating equipment on our feeder circuit.
 
Last edited:
If its line noise, it's worth a shot. If it's thermionic noise, nothing you do to the power source will remove noise , short of shutting it off.
 
Grenadeslio said:
some people just have way too much time on their hands, you should get a hobby, your making too much of a job out of this one:D
Click to expand...

It used to be called "a bus man's holiday."

Big sandstorm this weekend and our company town is locked down for the panic-demic. Three day weekend too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom