Is the tweeter not producing any sound at all? Have you tested it? Due to the age of these, if the tweeters check out OK, it could be time to recap the crossovers.
They are producing sound, just not very loud nor clear. they seem very muddy to me
Those are typical symptoms of speakers that need a recap. Even if you replaced the tweeters, you would still need to recap. Those speakers are at least 25 years old. They need to be recapped, not have the tweeters replaced.
For $10 they are a deal. But they are not so good that I would spend a lot of money fixing them up. I would use Dayton or Audyn film caps and be happy.
The V (voltage) doesn't matter as long as the replacement's voltage spec is no lower then the original. You need to match the uF (micro farads) as close as possible. If you can't find an exact match, you can connect multiple caps in parallel and add their values together to get the desired size.
One more thing - make sure you buy nonpolarized capacitors. If they're listed as being meant for use with speakers/crossovers, then they're correct.
from what i can tell the existing capacitors are 3uF 100V.
would these work?
https://www.parts-express.com/33uf-...rized-crossover-capacitor--027-328#lblReviews
from what i can tell the existing capacitors are 3uF 100V.
would these work?
https://www.parts-express.com/33uf-...rized-crossover-capacitor--027-328#lblReviews
I would opt for one of these 3 uF caps:
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/metalized-polypropylene-crossover-capacitors/294?N=22074+4294967118+4294962384&Ne=10166&Nrpp=99999&Nrs=collection()/record[endeca:matches(.,"P_PortalID","1")+and+endeca:matches(.,"P_Searchable","1")]&PortalID=1
The ones you listed above are 10% too high. The increased capacitance will lower the crossover frequency for the tweeter. It may not be audible considering the quality of the speaker. If it were me, I would prefer to use a much closer value to the original.
The first cap you list above is an electrolytic cap. That type is the least desirable, although it is also the least expensive.
The second one you list is a film cap which is typically considered to be more sonically suitable than electrolytic caps. If you want Audyn, I suggest wiring a 1.2 and 1.8 uF in parallel to get 3 uF.
Looks like these but many copies/variations were made: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...MIpKG7jpTp4gIVF8JkCh1-JQ6REAQYAyABEgK4jfD_BwE
Are these the correct tweeters for series 3 EPIs because they are nothing like the tweeters
that EPI's are known for?
If they are in great condition, as you say, and you only paid $10 for them do the right thing and get proper tweeters for them.
Human Speakers- http://humanspeakers.com/ -will have everything you need to fix/upgrade a pair of EPI's.
If you only want a pair of used tweeters, post a WTB ad on Barter Town. I have had good luck myself getting parts this way.
Anyone familiar with EPI's will tell you they're worth the effort.
Looks like these but many copies/variations were made: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...MIpKG7jpTp4gIVF8JkCh1-JQ6REAQYAyABEgK4jfD_BwE
Are these the correct tweeters for series 3 EPIs because they are nothing like the tweeters
that EPI's are known for?
The Series 3 speakers came out well after Burhoe sold the company. They are a different design than the original EPIs that used the Burhoe Modules. The 100 Series 3 speakers do not have the reputation of the original EPI 100 speakers.
I'd replace the caps first since that needs to be done anyway. If you still think the sound can be improved, you can check for clearance tweeters on Parts Express or cheap domes on eBay.sure does look like them (see my pic at the beginning of the thread) and yes, they are nothing like the inverted dome tweeters the original EPI 100s had. I have tossed around the idea of getting some for these boxes, but even used, they aren't cheap.
They are producing sound, just not very loud nor clear. they seem very muddy to me