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Epicure 3.0 Speakers
- Thread starter allsmith
- Start date
allsmith
Super Member
Yeah that would be cool if we could do that,too bad were not closer! Heck when i get these fired up i might just be happy with there sound and i wont need to do anything else to them,never know.But not knowing drives me nuts! lol!
Oh hey Kyle i was going to ask you if your lower woofer chamber has any side to side or front to back bracing in it. Im at a point where im trying to decide what to do with mounting the woofer to the front baffle. I have bought hurricane nuts and also new screws,but not sure what im going to do yet. Im going to fill all the screw holes in the wood first with JB Weld wood repair then drill new holes,but im also still thinking about adding the second piece of wood behind the baffle like yours are. So im still in think mode! lol!
the only internal bracing ther is i could see is in the 4 corners running up the cabinent but as for side to side or front to back theres nothing. only thing is the piece of wood seperating the woofer and midrange bins. i was thinking you got all rebuild drivers on those so youll have to break them in before you make any finall decisions. i bet you can wait to hear them, i hope they sound as intended, the bass on the 3.0's is just amazing how low they can go, somtimes you wonder if you got a subwoofer tuned with the speakers. for my room i run the tweeter level -3 db sems to work well. might be diffrent at your place though. you will hear things you prob never heard in recordings if everything is working right.
allsmith
Super Member
Got to repairing the original and extra holes that were drilled into the baffles last night. Using JB weld epoxy wood repair, seems like pretty good stuff. It's easy to work with and not too bad to sand. Only problem is one tube is not going to be enough to finish both speakers, so I'll have to go get some more. Now i have to decide on if i should just drill pilot holes and use new wood screws, or use hurricane nuts. Also I'm thinking about adding a second layer of mdf to back of the baffle to beef it up since it's so thin. I think I'm going to use the Armacell foam tape to seal the drivers to the cabinets instead of strip caulk to make it easier to remove the drivers if i have to pull them back out.
Lots of blown out holes that need filled.
Holes after filling and sanding.
Lots of blown out holes that need filled.
Holes after filling and sanding.
allsmith
Super Member
Thanks, the cabinets are 41" and with the tweeter and the foam cap on top about 44"
There's actually suppose to be a plastic cover/gasket that sits on top of the edge of the drivers. Finding them might be hard.
Very nice job on the 3.0.
allsmith
Super Member
Thanks! Yeah i noticed that unfinished wood, I'll have to take care of that.
allsmith
Super Member
Thanks! Hmm I've never seen a pic with what your talking about. You mean like a trim ring? The pic at Human speakers don't seem to show that, and there sure are not many other pics of them online. But you said you have seen and heard a pair of these in person
so i believe you. I think they need something to finish them off too.
yes it is true there are plastic rings that have no screw holes that go over the what supposed to be cardboard with screw holes that helps hold down the foam around the outside edge of the driver. i have a freind that has a set that has the cardboard and the plastic ring. i been looking for both with no luck. the cardboard pretty much sits between the edge of driver and wher the cone starts it sits over the foam at the edge. this cardboard is prety much thick enough that the top of the cardboard will fit evenly with the lip at the edge of driver, the cardboard also has screwholes in it. the plastic trim ring goes over the top of cardboard gasket and unlike the cardboard gasket thats hard glued to the edge of driver. the plastic trim ring looked like it was lightly glued with a peeling glue like hot glue or something it pryd off wihtout damaging the carboard gasket. both the midrange and the wofer has both the cardboard gasket and trim rings.
the cardboard gasket that sits above the foam looked like this something like this might work. http://compare.ebay.com/like/171056326589?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
the plastic trim ring would look like this without the crew holes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERWIN-VEGA..._Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item518df79e11
the cardboard gasket that sits above the foam looked like this something like this might work. http://compare.ebay.com/like/171056326589?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
the plastic trim ring would look like this without the crew holes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERWIN-VEGA..._Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item518df79e11
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allsmith
Super Member
Dang I've always wondered about that,looking like there needed to be something to finish off around the drivers. The pic i been going off of on HS site does not show them, and i had been using that picture to see how the screws were oriented on the drivers . But i just found this pic from a flyer, its hard to see but there is a finish ring.
yep
the plastic ring is prety thin would be easy to break if not carfull would be nice to find asupplier for the trim rings and the cardboard gaskets. also i would like to find dustcaps like the original ones were. you could kinda see through them meaning in certain light you could see the pole piece for the voice coil seemd to be like a felt type material. i dont know if it would have to be exactly the same material to make a difrence in sound or not but i belive the see throuh dust cap would be for better cooling. what kind of dustcaps did hue use on those drives of yours can you kinda see through them they kinda do look like the material that was on the orignal ones
the plastic ring is prety thin would be easy to break if not carfull would be nice to find asupplier for the trim rings and the cardboard gaskets. also i would like to find dustcaps like the original ones were. you could kinda see through them meaning in certain light you could see the pole piece for the voice coil seemd to be like a felt type material. i dont know if it would have to be exactly the same material to make a difrence in sound or not but i belive the see throuh dust cap would be for better cooling. what kind of dustcaps did hue use on those drives of yours can you kinda see through them they kinda do look like the material that was on the orignal ones
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oh crap dude you need to find something to decouple the driver from the cabinet thats why the oringal used rubber well nuts. i used plastic drywall anchors tha fit into the screw holes when you tightien the screw they expand in the screw whole. i dont know if it would be as good as rubber well nuts but itshard to find rubber well nuts. decoupling the drivers from the cabinent was in the desing of the speaker so screwing the screws directly to the cab would make it where the drivers are coupled to the cab via the screws. i dont know if it makes that much diffrence but the company calculated it as part of the design. something like this that would be the same lenght as the depth of your wood that your screwing your drivers into, they would slid in from the back side of the holes. http://monsterfastener.com/itemview.aspx?itm=WNR-055&gclid=COPo_4uz4LcCFYhAMgodgn4A_Q
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allsmith
Super Member
Well my mids have the mesh see through dustcaps, but the Huw built woofers are a hard fiber non see through type. Maybe I'll call Huw and ask if he could come up with some trim rings. Was the cardboard ring basically like ordinary rings you see on most woofers?
Those would be easy to get.
Those would be easy to get.
Not entirely correct. I own a pair and been fixing it up at a slow snail pace. I need to redo one foam on the woofer as I screwed up but, they are not the originals as I was missing one mid and one woofer. I just happen to have a pair of woofers from the EPI 500 and I can tell without a doubt there are a few differences between the woofers of the EPI 3.0 and the EPI 500. I may eventually buy new woofers as Huw's replacements are slightly better than the originals from my experiences.
After the woofer will be new crossovers and make new grills while the foams are in tact.
allsmith
Super Member
Well i been thinking about that but just didn't know if it would be worth it or not. But im not real happy with the way i got them screwed in now. I did fill and redrill the holes, but it's so thin there i don't trust them to crank them down hard. I still might add extra wood behind the baffle and use longer screws or bolts with hurricane nuts that i bought. At one point i had some ideas of decoupling the added new wood to the back of the baffle with foam.
With the hurricane nuts attached to the new wood, if you known what i mean