FX Audio 6j1 tube preamp - a $31 wonder

These things have cheap volume pots. When turned to zero the entire signal should be shunted to ground but obviously not all of it is. Because the streamer has a weaker signal, you just don't hear it. The CDP obviously has a hotter signal so whatever slips through is noticeable.

In my FX-03 the volume pot was broken as new. The signal was "too loud" and setting the volume was harsh, as I descriped it back then. Changing the volume pot to better one (Alps 50k pot from the China, fake or not, it works 100% perfect) fixed the issue. Only de-soldering the old pot can be difficult at first but it seems FX Audio PCB is quality made and hard.

PS. Today I make decision to use only LM4562/LM49720 family op amps and Voskhod tubes on the FX-03. Or maybe real NE5532 if available. I even used TL072 for some weeks. Most of the old music was going thru 072 and 5532s when recording, mixing and mastering.
 
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Question for people who have used "real hifi" and expensive pre-amps? How "bad" is FX-03 (when modded including a decent psu, quality capacitors, etc) compared to the high quality preamps? Or is it in some cases, just the brand name what makes the cost high?
 
Not surprised that the volume pot is not high end based on the cost of the unit. Since I am now locked into this speaker/amp combo I suppose my only other option is to insert another preamp before the FX for the CDP. Not such a big deal as I am doing it anyway for a phono input.

Thanks for the clarification.

I think your unit volume pot is damaged like mine was. And it will go worse by time. Replacing it is the answer. Does it sound like too harsh and too loud? Mine did. When replacing the old pot with new one, the gain was 20-30% lower in normal levels. With the original damaged pot I cannot use the FX-03 volume almost at all, it was too much gain! I think the volume pot is fine with some units and some got damaged pot with too much gain. So, instead of using the attenuateurs (?), replace the old pot with better = lower gain. Here's the magical -20/30% gain pot (exactly the same I was using to fix the problem):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321095979862
Japan ALPS RK09 Logarithmic Potentiometer Dual 50K 50KAX2 Knurled
 
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If you want to be sure it's not counterfeit, it's always best to buy from one of the major electronics distributors like Digi-Key or Mouser.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LME49720NA-NOPB/1647708

Digi-Key has a free shipping option which is especially nice when the cost of shipping is more than the cost of the parts. No minimum order, no handling charge. I have no use of op amps but I buy lots of other stuff from them.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...hipping-on-parts-orders.739513/#post-10018562

This is true but the postage is always expensive. 2-4 euros for op amps and 20 euros for postage.
 
hey im trying to find the coupling caps people have been changing on the suca/fx audio pre amps. because according to measurements the bass is rolled off quite a bit. and putting 4.7uf makes it much better. are they the 2 square ones between the tubes or the 4 big ones in the back? thanks!

Check this thread about one year ago there was photos/links and info about changing the right capacitors. Near the tubes are 2x1uf 63v and in the back 1uf/250v by default. The blue ones. They are already fine quality, and when I was replacing them with WIMA's the difference was not radical, but it was there. WIMA's got more treble/highs and the installed blue ones more bass and mids. What is more important is replace the electrolytics in my opinion because they are cheap and poor quality. I recommended use Nichicon or Panasonic.Only downside is the height, you cant use over 18-19mm height capacitors. Not sure if 4.7uf (near the tubes) will fit because of size...
 
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I think your unit volume pot is damaged like mine was. And it will go worse by time. Replacing it is the answer. Does it sound like too harsh and too loud? Mine did. When replacing the old pot with new one, the gain was 20-30% lower in normal levels. With the original damaged pot I cannot use the FX-03 volume almost at all, it was too much gain! I think the volume pot is fine with some units and some got damaged pot with too much gain. So, instead of using the attenuateurs (?), replace the old pot with better = lower gain. Here's the magical -20/30% gain pot (exactly the same I was using to fix the problem):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321095979862
Japan ALPS RK09 Logarithmic Potentiometer Dual 50K 50KAX2 Knurled
Pots don't have any gain. They're adjustable voltage dividers that, depending on how they're adjusted, direct where the incoming signal goes.

When turned all the way down, the entire signal voltage is shunted to ground and nothing goes to the tube (which has gain, amplifies the signal). When turned all the way up, all of the signal goes to the tube and none of it is shunted to ground. In other positions, the incoming signal voltage is divided. Part of the signal goes to the tube and the other part goes to ground.

The earlier post indicated that some signal was being sent to the tube, even when the pot was turned all the way down. That just means not all of the signal is being shunted to ground.

However . . .

After reading your description of how your replacement volume pot had more usable range than the stock one, it occurs to me that the reason may be that the stock pot has a linear taper. A linear taper pot is, well, linear. That means, for example, that if you turn it up 1/4 of the way, you're sending 1/4 of the signal voltage to the tube and 3/4 to ground.

The replacement pot you linked is a logarithmic pot, sometimes also called an audio taper. With an audio taper pot you have to turn the pot up higher than 1/4 of the way in order to send 1/4 of the signal to the tube.

For example, you might not be sending 1/4 of the signal to the tube until the pot is turned up half way. That's just an example, different log type pots may use different tapers, but the pattern is the same. The first half of its travel is not same as the second half, the first half (usually more than half) is more gradual.

If some of the FX and similar units have issues and some don't, it's entirely possible that they're just tossing in whatever 50k pot they were able to get the cheapest and are not paying any attention to whether they are linear pots or log pots.

If your unit came with a linear pot and you replaced it with a log (audio taper) pot, the results would be exactly what you described - more usable range of adjustment.

Typically, log pots are used for volume controls and linear pots are used for tone controls and other things.
 
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Question for people who have used "real hifi" and expensive pre-amps? How "bad" is FX-03 (when modded including a decent PSU, quality capacitors, etc.) compared to the high quality preamps? Or is it in some cases, just the brand name what makes the cost high?
The FX-03 is a very good preamp. It's just that it uses fewer parts than more expensive "regular" preamps and has fewer features. That's probably what helps it sound good. I have done the bigger power supply and tube swap and if it had multiple inputs, including a phono, and a remote it would find a semi permanent place in my system.
 
FlaCharlie,

Thank you for the helpful information! Yes, the original pots were both linear and tone control pot is still linear. How about other people FX's, linear or logarithmic pots?
 
The FX-03 is a very good preamp. It's just that it uses fewer parts than more expensive "regular" preamps and has fewer features. That's probably what helps it sound good. I have done the bigger power supply and tube swap and if it had multiple inputs, including a phono, and a remote it would find a semi permanent place in my system.

Great to hear! It seems power supply is very important part. I did and use EMI filter (didnt notice anything different) + toroidal transformer + LT1083 module combination power supply for FX03. The total cost was about 35-40€ including postage. It is placed in cardboard shoe box though :) Basically linear psu are everywhere, thrift stores, flea markets... 2nd hand are cheap if not maded for "audio" market.
 
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Question for people who have used "real hifi" and expensive pre-amps? How "bad" is FX-03 (when modded including a decent psu, quality capacitors, etc) compared to the high quality preamps? Or is it in some cases, just the brand name what makes the cost high?
The FX-03 is a very good preamp. It's just that it uses fewer parts than more expensive "regular" preamps and has fewer features. That's probably what helps it sound good. I have done the bigger power supply and tube swap and if it had multiple inputs, including a phono, and a remote it would find a semi permanent place in my system.

Well, I would say that it's a "very good preamp for the money" because in that price range it's (and it's cousins) pretty much the "only game in town". Its main value, as I see it, is that it's a fantastic introduction to the world of tubes.

It's biggest limitation is that it operates the tubes at ridiculously low voltages that are nowhere close to what the tube data sheets recommend.

When I was breadboarding my preamp project I tried the ones used in the FX. The basic circuit design I use is exactly the same as the FX uses, it's called an anode follower.

As I've said before, I was surprised that they sounded as good as they did when operated at the stock FX voltages, which are nowhere close to what the tube data sheet recommends. I also tried them at "normal" voltages and, not surprisingly, they sounded much better like that.

Earlier in the thread, I posted two schematics that operate the FX tubes at those higher voltages. Unfortunately, the FX can't simply be modded to run them at normal voltages.

During the breadboarding process I ended up experimenting with maybe 10 or 12 different types of tubes. Not variations of the (tube rolling) types used in the FX but totally different types of tubes. With the exception of the ones used in the FX, they were all chosen because they had low gain and low output impedance.

Low gain because modern amps can typically be driven to full power by a line level source alone, so no gain is actually needed. Excessive gain just creates problems, as discussed in the posts above about volume control issues. And it all just gets dumped to ground in the end.

Low output impedance because it allows for a better impedance match with a SS or Class D amp. I wanted to be able to use the preamp with my Yamaha M-60 SS power amp. I really just tried the FX tubes out of curiosity since they are not low gain and the output impedance of the FX is not particularly low. Many preamps add a cathode follower stage, using an additional tube, in order to lower output impedance. I just used a tube that has lower impedance and kept the circuit simple.

YMMV, of course, but the tubes used in the FX rated at the bottom of my list, even when run at normal voltages. I only found one that I liked less (the 1LE3) but that was totally due to its microphonics - simply rubbing my finger over the surface of the volume knob could be heard through the speakers! Other than the microphonics, it actually sounded quite good.

Most of the people who are fans of the FX have little to no experience with other tube preamps or tubes in general. But, as I said earlier, it's a great introduction to the world of tubes. If you expand your horizons you'll find that there are many other options, especially if you learn to DIY.

The tube I ended up using in my preamp, which I call the Boogie Factor, is the 1626. Here's a thread about it: https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1626-preamp-build.931276/

And, if the taste of tubes you've gotten from the FX appeals to you, you really should try a tube amp. I've found that a tube preamp does improve the sound of SS amps but it's a combo that only gets you, maybe, 20% or so of the full "tube sound".

I obviously prefer all tube, although I have and use SS and Class D too. As with anything audio, YMMV and others may prefer SS.
 
I agree that for the price it's a very good preamp. I wouldn't call it a giant killer it's just an inexpensive hybrid pre that happens to punch above it's price point. It's not going to embarrass any true tube or higher end preamps but those are going to come at a lot higher price tag. Being an inexpensive hybrid pre if you're looking to get into tubes it's not going to be the last preamp you buy.
 
I wouldn't call it a giant killer it's just an inexpensive hybrid pre that happens to punch above it's price point.
The FX 01 certainly "punches above its price point" but it's not really a hybrid.

The term hybrid usually means that the audio signal is amplified by a combination of tubes and either transistors or Class D chips. While the power supply does have transistors, the audio signal is only amplified by the tubes.

I guess the 03 and some of the other brands might be considered hybrids in that there are op amps used in the tone control and volume control portions of the circuit. But if you remove the op amps, the unit still works so the actual amplification of the signal is all tube.
 
The FX 01 certainly "punches above its price point" but it's not really a hybrid.

The term hybrid usually means that the audio signal is amplified by a combination of tubes and either transistors or Class D chips. While the power supply does have transistors, the audio signal is only amplified by the tubes.

I guess the 03 and some of the other brands might be considered hybrids in that there are op amps used in the tone control and volume control portions of the circuit. But if you remove the op amps, the unit still works so the actual amplification of the signal is all tube.
I think a fair amount of the musical "goodness" of the '01 is its utter simplicity.
 
The FX 01 certainly "punches above its price point" but it's not really a hybrid.

The term hybrid usually means that the audio signal is amplified by a combination of tubes and either transistors or Class D chips. While the power supply does have transistors, the audio signal is only amplified by the tubes.

I guess the 03 and some of the other brands might be considered hybrids in that there are op amps used in the tone control and volume control portions of the circuit. But if you remove the op amps, the unit still works so the actual amplification of the signal is all tube.

Potaayto potahhto, I think :dunno:

I think a fair amount of the musical "goodness" of the '01 is its utter simplicity.

I think that too. Less stuff in the signal path to muck it up :beatnik: The KISS principle.
 
I think a fair amount of the musical "goodness" of the '01 is its utter simplicity.

I think that too. Less stuff in the signal path to muck it up :beatnik: The KISS principle.
Yeah, I'm a big believer in simple, low parts count, circuits too.

If you look at the schematic of my Boogie Factor 1626 preamp you'll see that the audio section uses the same type of simple anode follower design that the FX uses. And the power supply section not only provides enough voltage to run the tubes at normal voltages, it's also much, much simpler than the FX's power supply.

It's interesting to see that some people are now trying to simplify the later versions of the FX, like the 03, by removing the opamps which makes it more like the original 01, which didn't have any.

I keep wondering if anyone will take the next step and build a much simpler, traditional, power supply that allows the tube to be run at normal voltages. So far, I think I'm the only one who has posted here who has ever heard the tube at the operating points suggested in the data sheet.
 
Most of the posters appear to be using it as a redundant loop "tube sound" filter. Me, I'd just clone the C-J cath' follower line gain stage for a tube active line stage pre'.
 
20220205_101423.jpg 20220129_164850.jpg 20220129_163939.jpg 20220129_163848.jpg
Good Morning Audio Karma
I to enjoyed the
FX Audio 6j1 tube preamp - a $31 wonder
I have the FX TUBE-03
Have done the same as all you have rolling tubes, capacitors and chips, power supply modes.
Enjoying the soud of tubes stage in the front end driving a solid state amp.
I have the Leach Amp I built some years ago.
The tube-03 did a fair job of driving it with impedance miss match added a 100k volume pot after the tube-03 helped.

After figuring out what I want I stumbled across Charlie here at AK the Man behind the 1626 Boogie Factor.

His choice in this tube that has a audio history as a amp low gain and a low output impedance is also under the radar of most audio enthusiast.

So I decided to build it.
Great preamp!
How does it sound, I'll leave it up to Charlie to describe how it sounds on his 1626 preamp build page.
All the details are there and I invite you all to have a look.
It does have the Boogie Factor indeed !!

Charlie I thank you so very much for sharing it with me and the AK community!
......Robert

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1626-preamp-build.931276/





 

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Good Morning Audio Karma
I to enjoyed the
FX Audio 6j1 tube preamp - a $31 wonder
I have the FX TUBE-03
Have done the same as all you have rolling tubes, capacitors and chips, power supply modes.
Enjoying the soud of tubes stage in the front end driving a solid state amp.
I have the Leach Amp I built some years ago.
The tube-03 did a fair job of driving it with impedance miss match added a 100k volume pot after the tube-03 helped.

After figuring out what I want I stumbled across Charlie here at AK the Man behind the 1626 Boogie Factor.

His choice in this tube that has a audio history as a amp low gain and a low output impedance is also under the radar of most audio enthusiast.

So I decided to build it.
Great preamp!
How does it sound, I'll leave it up to Charlie to describe how it sounds on his 1626 preamp build page.
All the details are there and I invite you all to have a look.
It does have the Boogie Factor indeed !!

Charlie I thank you so very much for sharing it with me and the AK community!
......Robert

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1626-preamp-build.931276/






Beautiful build, I am jealous and wish I had the skills to build one.
 
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