Going Insanyo! (with a TP 1012A)

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choosetogo

New Member
After lurking for a while, I joined specifically to seek help on this problem...

I've got a Sanyo TP 1012A. It's direct-drive, with auto-return, speeds 33/45 with individual pitch controls, and it's as old as I am. I've had it for about 10 years, I'm fully intent on fixing it. I also have an old receiver (Concord CR-550) though I don't think it has anything to do with the problem.

It's a speed/pitch problem, apparently; nothing too out of the ordinary I guess. The record suddenly slows way down, then speeds way up past the proper pitch, then falls back to a normal-sounding speed. It's as if something's mucking up the motor into the slowdown, and then getting out of the way, causing the reactive speed-up. It can happen right away, or I can get through a whole record and it'll happen on the next; it can happen repeatedly, or just once and then not for a while.

At first it was only slight fluctuations. Now, when it happens, it's completely unlistenable, a total bad-trip-sounding haywire nightmare.

I think it might just need to be lubricated, though I heard somewhere (maybe here?) that direct-drives never need lube, except Technics for some reason. I don't know what "Deoxit" does, but maybe it needs that? Or does the motor need cleaning, or does it need a new motor? If lube, what kind of lube?

I just ordered a copy of the manual for the TP1012; hopefully the "A" at the end of mine doesn't signify too huge a difference...?
 
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I know nothing about your table, but it could be dirty controls. Most will have a pot or slider that sets the speed, and or pitch. If they are flakey, you will have speed issues. Deoxit will clean them. Radioshack sells small spray bottles. But also the motor may need something, but I dont know much about DD tables. John
 
I got a TP-1010 and the speed goes crazy occasionally too.

The problem is dirty speed control thumbwheels, but a lube job would be a good idea too.

Other than that though, these Sanyo turntables really are great units. Total sleepers IMO.

Welcome to AK BTW! No doubt a lot of people will be able to help you out.
 
You know, this is making me realize that the problem did originate with the thumbwheels; whichever way I adjusted them, the pitch would react oppositely and then waver before settling to the intended setting. Now it just wavers spontaneously. Here's where my ignorance really shows up -- and if the answer is to simply wait for my manual to arrive by mail, that's fine...

Do I have to open the whole thing up to get at the speed control thumbwheels, or can I just spray Deoxit right into the slots?

As for lube, can I drip a little right down on the spindle from above, or do I have to get in under the plastic gears I see when I lift off the platter?
 
though not familiar with your machine, rule of thumb is normally spraying in the slots doesnt work out... though in your case maybe it would. normally you have to actually see the body of the pot or switch and then find a little aperture or opening that leads directly to the interior in order to do any good. in the case of thumbwheel controls only access may very well be only from the wheelside, but having not dealt or even seen one for a long long time cant say for sure..anyways you get the idea im sure.
 
No, you really have to open it up and spray it on the innards of the pitch controls AND the 33/45 switch.
 
Yup. Sorry, but the spray needs to into the actual potentiometer - the circuit device attached to the wheel. You'll need open the machine and find a small opening in each of the pots. Spray the DeOxit into the opening and work the controls 10~20 times to get through the surface corrosion. They should be smooth and linear after being treated. The switches need to be treated similarly. While you are there, look at the arm return mechanism. It might need a drop of sewing machine oil on each pivot to free up the old grease and smooth things along :)
 
Turntable.jpg

Turntablecontrols.jpg



Thanks for very clear answers so far -- I went out and got some Deoxit and will soon attempt to open'er up. Just in case, I thought the above pics might help those that said they were unfamiliar with my kind Sanyo.

Does that push-bottom 33/45 control make a difference?

Also, I got a "Needle-Tip Precision Lubricator" from Radio Shack that doesn't specifically say "ok for plastics," but does say that it's "perfect for electronic equipment and electric motors." Here's what it looks like on ebay, for some reason: http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/NEW-SET-OF-T...categoryZ31485QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Will this work for a turntable?
 
I've got a TP-1030, looks like it might be the big brother to that...

For years, I thought it was nothing more than a $10 nicer looking that the $140 Kenwood all black plastic jobber I passed up on in the 90s... I also thought it was $10 from GW. It went in the "headed back to GW" pile about 6 years ago, but in my laziness, it never made it...

Anyhow:

Mine was headed back to GW for the same reason you are frustrated with yours. I too had pitch speed problems. However, I have since De-oxit'd it, and it's now back to normal duty, no longer headed to GW.
 
Its good advice

Follow what the fellas have said and get in there and clean those pots with Deoxit. Place a paper towel behind the pot to catch any over spray and shake the can well first. You don't want to clean up a mess it will just hamper the learning experience for you. Work them well after. You may want to add a littel Faderlube to help the pots turn smooth again.
I too know nothing about direct drive but there are folks here that sleep with it. I think you are off to a great start. The taking apart is intimidating just be sure your tonearm is secure and you have plenty of cushion to place the table on, good lighting and maybe an extra hand to help hold the chassis. Careful not to lose screws and other parts. Work slow and concentrated.

I have no help here at home so I upped my meds and grew a hand out of the side of my head to assist when needed. :music:
 
I made my first incision...

Secured the arm, removed the platter, laid it upside down on its protective lid, and found the bottom to be a thin cardboard secured with easy screws. Undid the lot of'em, and found that the speed control wheels connected to things that went inside what I guess are the "pots"... Little things with three prongs sticking up (or down, when it's right-side-up), two of which have wires connected. I poked the Deoxit straw right up the small space behind each fork, where I could see the spool of the speed control wheel inside, and gave a little blast. Rolled each wheel back n forth at least ten times, then repeated.

As for the 33/45 button, I was confused... The button connected to a stiff wire which ran to a plastic thing which affected some other switch, etc; I had no idea where to point the blast.

So I closed it back up and put on a record I know so well, even the slightest fluctuation would drive me batty. I'm not through the first side yet, but so far, so good! I've even played with the 33 pitch control wheel. In the past, if I even looked at it, the record would squeal ahead then lag way back and go bonkers. Now it actually does what it's supposed to do! Pitch actually adjusts smoothly and slightly, no wild fluctuation! I'm amazed one blast of this magic toxin could solve the problem. But it's a little early to be counting chickens I guess.

Can anyone help me with specifics on where to lube, and what to do about the 33/45 switch?

Thanks all! This is very exciting. :music:
 
Yep, sorry, I forgot to mention that about the 33/45 switch. You don't spray the mechanical linkage--you have to find the actual switch and spray it in there. But if this did the trick, then great.
 
I've also had problems with dirty internal adjustment pots on various things. My SL-1100A was constantly changing speeds until I took care of the power supply regulator adjustment pot.
 
No, it's probably a slider switch that the linkage moves. It'll have wires or PC Board traces going to it. Same drill - get the DeOxit into the openings and work the switch. It should clean right up.

All this is likely the result of atmospheric humidity on open copper windings in the switches or potentiometers. Over time they build up a slight film of oxidation that messes with the electrical signal (variable resistance). The circuits sense this as a user input and try to follow orders :(

Once cleaned and working well, they will last for a few years before needing to do it again. Using FaderLube after the DeOxit treatment usually makes it last much longer and makes the controls smooth and easy to work :)
 
Mine is a TP 1012 doing the same thing, only I pulled the flywheel clened spindle and relubed, also replaced the speed selector switch and both pots that were supposed to be in good working order. Mine still does the varying speed and pitch
 
Did you miss my reply to your earlier post?
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/unstablerpm.1025627/#post-16290859

Did you spray the contacts of the speed selector switch and pots that you replaced (probably needlessly)? You also need to clean the two pots on the circuit board. If you're not sure how to do this, do a search on Youtube "cleaning turntable pots". After spraying the switch contacts and the pots you must work them back and forth to displace the corrosion. The pictures on my previous reply are of my TP-1012A. Hopefully your TP-1012 is similar.
 
ronaldw441 said:
Did you miss my reply to your earlier post?
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/unstablerpm.1025627/#post-16290859

Did you spray the contacts of the speed selector switch and pots that you replaced (probably needlessly)? You also need to clean the two pots on the circuit board. If you're not sure how to do this, do a search on Youtube "cleaning turntable pots". After spraying the switch contacts and the pots you must work them back and forth to displace the corrosion. The pictures on my previous reply are of my TP-1012A. Hopefully your TP-1012 is similar.
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Yes I got the post, cleaned all of the pots. I did get some more "FREENESS " out of the controls. Meaning they turn a lot easier, but the problem is still there. I am looking for a place in town thar does electonic repair on this sort of stuff. In the meantime I am purchasing a used Pioneer PL112-D to keep me going. I just don't want to give up ont the Sanyo. Had it since 1978 new.
 
Hymie747 said:
Yes I got the post, cleaned all of the pots. I did get some more "FREENESS " out of the controls. Meaning they turn a lot easier, but the problem is still there. I am looking for a place in town thar does electonic repair on this sort of stuff. In the meantime I am purchasing a used Pioneer PL112-D to keep me going. I just don't want to give up ont the Sanyo. Had it since 1978 new.
Click to expand...
Local guy said to check the Mosfet, any ideas on this?
 
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