Help with Audio Technics 1005 MKII arm ajustment

jdwk

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
so it has the string with a little weight on the end, there are Three "positions" where you can loop the string off of the bar that hangs off the side of the tonearm. I got the manual off of VE and it says "if tracking force is to be 1.5g put the loop on the second innermost position...well it is, and I moved the sliding weight on the tonearm to what I think is 1.5g and moved the sliding counter weight till the arm doesnt float, but the string runs out before it gets to the end of the LP side. so what am I doing wrong? Also can anyone that owns this arm give me a good color photo of what on original headshell for this arm looks like? I am using a technics headshell because thats all i have. Id like to get the orig headshell for my arm. I purchased a Technics EPA 250 arm that I wanted to use, but it is defective and needs work, is there another arm I can get that owuld be of the quality of an EPA 250? that is more plentiful, so I have a better chance of getting one that works?

The turntable I am using this with is a Technics SP 15.
 
Register to hide this ad
Please show us some photos of your tonearm weight settings and anti-skate settings. Your AT 1005 is actually a superb tonearm. We're here to help.
 
Re:AT1005 Mk2

Hello there,
I'm not sure from your description what you are doing with the VTF setting.

With the cartridge mounted in the arm all ready to go, and the sliding VTF weight fully back against the bearing housing, you should use the rear counterweights, main and sliding, to balance the arm in a floating condition. Then lock the rear main weight in place with the thumb screw.

Now you can set the VTF using the forward sliding weight against the scale on the arm tube. This is the standard method for setting VTF with this arm, but you can play tunes with the effective mass if you need to, by using a combination of the rear weights and the VTF slider.

On the anti-skate, check that when the arm is on its rest the wire for the thread is as close as possible behind the graduated anti-skate lever/bar on the side of the bearing housing. If not the holder for the wire can be rotated on the arm pillar by unlocking two small screws which clamp it in place. It is also possible, and fairly common, that at some point the thread has broken near the end, and a previous owner has just tied a new knot - so shortening the thread.

The standard headshell for an AT1005 Mk2 looks like this:

headshell.jpg


I have a spare if you need one, but I am sure you will be able to find one on your side of the pond.

regards

Angus
 
Last edited:
okay I think I may be missing a piece of the arm, I have a sliding counterweight like most arms have, and the thread hanging weight, You said "main AND sliding" I have one weight on the back of the arm with a locking nut on top, and of course the sliding VTF that goes up and down the arm tube. If you were to measure the string on your 1005MKII how long is it? I wil lcompare it to mine to see if its been shortened. Pics coming soon.
 
sadly thee EPA 250 Tonearm I was so happy to get is going back the the seller, so I am stuck with this arm for who knows how long.
 

Attachments

  • at tonearm 002.jpg
    at tonearm 002.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 28
  • at tonearm 003.jpg
    at tonearm 003.jpg
    34 KB · Views: 35
  • at tonearm 004.jpg
    at tonearm 004.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 40
ok figured out the problem! how shall I say this, I think the thing you lhang the string on, not the pole the string is supposed to "move" with the arm, that piece isnt and it runs into that pole near the end of the record. I guess there is a way to make the pole piece travel with the arm?
 
Undo the set screw on the ring that holds that little angled bar in place. You can slide it forward so that the weight doesn't hit the bar.
 
re: AT1005 Mk2

Hello there,
As Bangsezmax says, loosen the setscrew(s) (on mine there are two), which fix the anti-skate wire frame to the arm pillar. Rotate it until is is about 1/8" behind the lever on the bearing housing. Assuming your arm is on its rest in your photographs, the wire frame is too far back. It is attached to the fixed part of the arm pillar - it does not rotate with the arm. I'll get you the measurement for the thread length later.

Your counterweight in your pictures is complete. The ring section in front of the thumbscrew slides forward and back. It has a setscrew which adjusts the pressure of the plastic liner in the ring weight so that you can move it, but it doesn't slide around on its own. You set the floating balance roughly with the main weight, lock the thumbscrew, then fine tune the balance with the sliding ring.

regards

Angus

edit: with the antiskate weight looped on to the lever on the side of the bearing housing and with the thread hanging straight down pulled by the weight the distance from the underside of the lever to the top of the weight is 37mm.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom