I "Fixed" a Really Cheap Chinese Amp

linuxslate

Well-Known Member
Background:

This thread is actually a continuation of a thread posted in the Solid State Forums.

As you will see, I thought it better to continue the thread in this forum.

In that other thread, I reviewed a "2000W" Sunbuck amplifier -- which in actuality wouldn't do anything more than ~11W TRMS, and wouldn't do that without significant distortion.

What am I Trying to Do?:

I am basically trying to make a set of remote speakers for informal outdoor DJ events.

Yes, I could buy some "party speakers", or even professional battery powered speakers, but in addition to the cost, it would mean storing more speakers. I figured that by using a small 12V powered amp, a gell-cell, and speakers I already have, I could make something for far less, and it wouldn't take up additional space.

The Sunbuck amp seemed to fit the bill. It was small, nice looking, cheap, ran on 12 VDC, 110 VAC, or 220 VAC, and included Bluetooth.

Don't get me wrong here - I never thought for even a second that it was 2000W (even peak), but I figured that with modern IC's it should be easy to make a 20 to maybe as much as 40 WPC amp in a chassis that size, and that it would be adequate quality for fill-in sound for an outdoor event.

No such luck.

Perhaps in this case, being deterred would have been a sign of intelligence, but --- well --- I wasn't.

What did I Buy Next?:

My next try is a "Dual 100W Class D Amplifier Module" from Marlin P Jones. MPJA.com

... and before the mods get me... Yes, this post is a bit of a plug for MPJA. I have been ordering from them (very sporadically) for decades, and I credit them with helping me to learn electronics. That's the only relationship I have with them, and I will also admit that the same amp module is available from many other vendors and sites. However, MPJA actually had them in US stock, and the amp module was here in a couple days.

...But I still had a problem... That TDA7498 based class D module won't do anywhere near 100 WPC on 12VDC. Yes, I could stack up several 12VDC gell-cells, or use a 6S Lithium Polymer pack like I use for my Electric Ducted Fan (EDF) model airplanes, but I really wanted just 1 simple, safe gell-cell.

So I used a step-up boost converter.

Results:

Here is the basic setup as it stands now, an I must say that I am impressed.

IMG_20210811_sm.jpg

With the Boost Module set to 28VDC output, it will happily light the 22.8W level on the pictured Realistic APM-500 TRMS watt meter.

In fact, the limit is actually the bench supply I am running from. It's limited to 6 A, and it will actually dim the lights in the room on the bass beats.

With an adequate power supply set to 36 VDC, I think it really could hit the 100 W Led on that meter (each channel). For now, I'm going to leave my boost supply set to 28V, and use the volume know to stay away from the point of distortion.

With the power limited by the input voltage, it provides the hard bass one would expect from a class D amp. Of course it doesn't have the "accuracy" or "presence" of a high end system, but if you judge by either horsepower per dollar, or horsepower for input power, I don't think it can be beat.

What's Next?:

For use as a remote DJ speaker, I am going to put the amp module, the boost module and a Bluetooth audio adapter in some sort of chassis. It will include a coaxial power jack, better speaker terminals, and an input switch (RCA line in or BT). The BT module also contains an MP3 player and an FM radio, so it will be quite a versatile unit.

In fact, I may just scrape the insides of the Sunbuck amp into the trash, and use that chassis. That's how to "fix" it.
 
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Darn. I was hoping the "fix" might involve a hammer.

I did threaten that (or similar) in the other thread. Actually I threatened to use just the chassis from the "2000W" amp, and to scrape it's innards into the trash.

Since the media player/Bluetooth module I planned on using wouldn't fit in the chassis from the "2000W" amp, I didn't do that. The chassis is from an old (and non-functional) 12V power supply (What I call a "CB power supply" -- used to run mobile CB/Ham equipment from 110VAC) I bought the Power Supply at a hamfest, and another ham indicated interest in the PS guts. I told him that he was welcome to the PS components if he returned the empty chassis. He came through, and after a little sheet metal work and painting (the CB PS was quite rusty in spots), I was able to adapt the former PS chassis for this project.

Here is the (nearly) completed project:

IMG_Class D_BT Amp.jpg

Forgive the messy bench -- as usual, I have several projects going on at the same time.

The amplifier module and Boost module is as pictured at the top of the page. I also realized that I needed a 5V buck supply for the media player module. The 12VDC inputs on these modules only drives the battery meter that can be seen at the upper right of the display.

I say it its "nearly complete", because I still need a Coaxial power jack (currently powered via flea clips from my bench supply), and I may add an external Bluetooth antenna. I hope to get a coaxial power jack tomorrow, and may actually use it at a DJ event on Sunday. Actual power for use as DJ remote speakers will come from a 12V/18AH gell-cell.

The small toggle switch to the right functions an input selector. In actuality, it simply disconnects the media player module from the amp inputs. There isn't room on the amp module to cut traces, and wire the toggle switch in as a proper selector. The only way I could have made it a proper selector was to de-solder the RCA jacks, and mount them separately. I didn't want to give up the convenience of the RCA jack mounting on the PCB. That is why I simply wired the toggle switch just to prevent back-feeding the player module.

It's a little complicated due to the way these Chinese modules are made, but the fact that the display says "Line In" is merely coincidental. I'm not actually using the player line-in functionality.

I'm still quite impressed with these little Class D amp modules from MPJA.com, just please don't tell anyone on the Tube Forums that I made a project with a Class D amplifier. :oops::rolleyes:
 
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FWIW, the voltage vs output graph for 8 ohms, from the TDA7498 datasheet. I'd consider it max and probably will be somewhat less on a board considering the possibility of various components between the supply input and the chip itself introducing voltage drop.

Screenshot 2021-10-22 113639.png
 
FWIW, the voltage vs output graph for 8 ohms, from the TDA7498 datasheet

I did look at the TDA7498 datasheet, but I did not put too much faith in it. 1st, as you say, I would consider that a little optimistic, and second, I'm not even sure if this board contains an authentic TDA7498.

I did, however crank the Boost converter up from 28VDC to 30VDC. The boost converter is basically an adjustment between output power (headroom) and battery life.

Was that an Astron supply? Looks like their cabinets.

Yes, I am pretty sure it was. Like I said, the case was pretty scratched up and rusty, and it had a bad regulator chip. The other guy at the hamfest wanted the transformer. So we all got what we wanted. There were lots of other Astron power supplies of various current ratings at the hamfest, so I don't feel like I ruined something valuable. All usable parts of it are destined for new lifes. That's the original power switch in the original location.

The big news it that I actually used it for a DJ job at a car show on Sunday.

I obtained Coaxial power connectors on Friday, and also added an external reverse SMA connector for an external Bluetooth antenna (Home WiFi Router antenna). I used my bench supply to basically float (voltage regulated) charge the battery all day Saturday.

On Sunday, after I had the main system up and running, I set up the remote speakers about 80-100' away. The BT audio transmitter was connected to the "Master-2" output of my Samson mixer. This gave me independent control of the remote volume.

It ran all day (6 hour gig). The battery meter on the media player shows one (of four) levels low when the battery is at right around 11 volts. It never when off of full for the 6 hour gig.

The BT transmitter did shut down from low battery with about an hour to go, so I had to connect up a USB charging cable. I'm pretty sure it will do a 4 hour gig without external power.

With the receiver/amp sitting on the ground it would drop if someone stood near the receiver/amp, or a car passed by. Of course there were also 2 rows of show cars between me and the remote setup.

I plan to build a little shelf to hang on one of the speaker poles so that I can get it off the ground. I think that will help the range a lot.

It had plenty of volume for where it was. The speakers I was using (Optimus/RS) "DJ" speakers don't have near the bass of my main speakers, so the remote sound is "tinny" compared to my big CV boxes. A way to separately equalize the remote speakers would be nice, and I can actually do that with just a few more patch cables.

For "good sound for all" with this set up, placement of the remote speakers is critical. The BT link introduces a delay, so I need to orient the remote speakers to minimize areas where the crowd hears both sounds.
 
nah they aren't particularly valuable unless you happen to need a power supply. Certainly not a rare or magically wonderful item.

sounds like you got a setup that worked well for what you need it to do. Honestly thats the best you can ask out of things.
 
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