I warn people - constantly - but some folks do not listen...

@jlh3rd
it's not the computer, it's the friggin space under the hood....or lack thereof.

A good friend had years with Alfa, Saab and ultimately Porsche repairs...when my used '91 Acura TL coupe developed an odd rattle in the left front wheel area, I asked him to take a look. He drove it and had it up on a rack instantly, and completed in twenty minutes - for $20. He seemed unusually grumpy. He explained that the Japanese cars had very tight engine and component areas, and it was more difficult to tighten the steering-lock nut and secure it. He was accustomed to the European makes, even though they were far more temperamental.
 
It's not the learning that's the problem. It's the special tool # this and that and the diag equipment needed. Then the cost of the smart parts. And related non-reusable parts.
It doesn't seem worth the get ready cost anymore. When the tool sits on the shelf in perpetuity. Never to be used again.
 
It's not the learning that's the problem. It's the special tool # this and that and the diag equipment needed. Then the cost of the smart parts. And related non-reusable parts.
It doesn't seem worth the get ready cost anymore. When the tool sits on the shelf in perpetuity. Never to be used again.

yes...it can be daunting for a newbie.....and a lot of swearing even for someone doing it for decades at his house. And in addition to previous comments about this when taking off other components to get access to the part you think is the problem, because of all the plastic, you can break good parts......i'm retired now, so i don't have to rush...and i have spare cars.
 
Three years ago I sold a 77 Cutlass 350, 79 Cordoba 400, 76 New Yorker 440, and 79 Cougar 351/m400. All very clean and sub 60k miles. All behaved as new or better after timing control issues (emissions) were addressed.
I got all their value, but I'm beginning to second guess my actions. It was nice to open the hood, point to the noise and say, replace that.
In the grand scheme of things, those were true economy cars.
 
Three years ago I sold a 77 Cutlass 350, 79 Cordoba 400, 76 New Yorker 440, and 79 Cougar 351/m400. All very clean and sub 60k miles. All behaved as new or better after timing control issues (emissions) were addressed.
I got all their value, but I'm beginning to second guess my actions. It was nice to open the hood, point to the noise and say, replace that.
In the grand scheme of things, those were true economy cars.

I have considered that scenario. Dumping my 08 silverado for a restored truck, like a cheyenne. Restored prices have taken off but aftermarket support is , right now, very good. Inexpensive (relatively speaking) chevy small blocks, even new ones from chevy. Reputable companies with rebuilt trannies not even close to costing what a modern one is. And overdrives included.
I had 72, 77, and 87 SS Monte carlo's. Body panels,bumpers and interior has little support for the 77, The 72 is a little better ( it's a chevelle) and collectible. The 87 might be long term supportable but it is obd I.........so....questionable...........but, man....did they all drive great.....17-18 mpg hwy.....
yep, so they just mighta been more economical.
Why are they gone?....forced and unfortunate choices...and thinking rationally, instead of with feeling and gut...
 
Three years ago I sold a 77 Cutlass 350, 79 Cordoba 400, 76 New Yorker 440, and 79 Cougar 351/m400. All very clean and sub 60k miles. All behaved as new or better after timing control issues (emissions) were addressed.
I got all their value, but I'm beginning to second guess my actions. It was nice to open the hood, point to the noise and say, replace that.
In the grand scheme of things, those were true economy cars.

a 77 monte was my first new car for me......but I wanted that cutlass real bad back in 1977 but the olds dealer would not back off his price and the monte was like $1800 less...that was alot for a kid paying for college, and supporting himself.
 
Three years ago I sold a 77 Cutlass 350, 79 Cordoba 400, 76 New Yorker 440, and 79 Cougar 351/m400. All very clean and sub 60k miles. All behaved as new or better after timing control issues (emissions) were addressed.
I got all their value, but I'm beginning to second guess my actions. It was nice to open the hood, point to the noise and say, replace that.
In the grand scheme of things, those were true economy cars.
I do not recall getting a phone call from you. I would have bought #1 sight unseen, but ultimately all of them....
 
As vehicles get newer, more expensive, and more complicated, I will be seeking out older ones when I need them. I can't afford new with a warranty, so all of that unnecessarily complicated BS will become a major liability by the time I can afford them. My current vehicles are from '04 and '05, and they are already borderline.

My next truck will be mid '90s or prior. You can just about build a whole new one out of the catalogs and parts stores, and almost everything is cheap.
 
I do not recall getting a phone call from you. I would have bought #1 sight unseen, but ultimately all of them....
The Cutlass was the softest all around compromise of the bunch. The Cordoba was faster, better built, and handled better, the Cougar was quieter and built the worst.
But the New Yorker was the one to have. It didn't give up anything to the others. Faster, smoother, quieter, handled better. And twice the car at 80. Much better car than most of the big 64 to 74 Chryslers. But not the 69 to 72 Imperials. Had them all.
I have no problem with mid 70's, as long as you correct all the mid 70's mistakes. I think they're better than the 80's. And the 60's = danger to the max.
 
Dumping my 08 silverado for a restored truck

Single biggest reason I can't quite make myself do that is I don't want to watch it rot away.

I'm not entirely down on 80s cars but they do suffer some quality control and cosmetic design issues. Once EFI got working right it was fantastic, early EFI is pretty bad. The early electronics could also be pretty tempermental. The cosmetic stuff is just a product of it's era and you have to learn to love the ugly. I own one of those bustleback Continentals. Its goofy looking as all get-out but it was most certainly a product of it's time.
 
I worked for a mechanic, summers during HS. We would see so many f'ed-up repairs by shady mechanics, I never trusted anyone else to work on my cars. Collected a lot of tools, over the years. :)
 
well an update - its totaled. they are gonna pay at this time just over 3K for the car, reimburse the tows, the ubers, the new radiator, my miles and tolls to go move it and run parts (they wont pay my shop rates per hour at this first pass), pay dans trans 300 to reassemble enuf to diag the tranny plus some storage and I am going to argue, the $800 alt job which started this, was OBVIOUSLY faulty, so lets get that back and the other argument is, the 3K for the car is understandable based on years/miles BUT, we spent the last few years correcting deville problem areas...powerstop braking system (dual piston, larger pads, drilled slotted rotors on all 4, ceramic carbon fiber on all 4, improved wheel bearings, new suspension and the fact that the tranny was not a high mileage tranny.

being proactive rather than reactive...was looking at newer used cars he would have to get his first payment on to build credit...looking hard at a couple S60 volvos with the 300hp turbo 6 and the 'swedish tiptronic' 6A and the other with the T5 and 6A. loaded to the hilt, adult owned but about 100K on them then this am, a nearby dealer takes in a 2003 seville STS with the 9 code engine on trade with 79K on it...I had Katie (sales gal) put it in the shop on the lift to see how much rust in its belt...its way less $-wise and a more or less known quantity and exterior looks mint. so we wait...
 
Totalled by insurance cost, or for real beyond fixing? Just curious what you're gonna do with it.


absolutely amazing that a botched alternator replacement can lead to a repair bill that is larger than the book value on a vehicle.
 
Totalled by insurance cost, or for real beyond fixing? Just curious what you're gonna do with it.


absolutely amazing that a botched alternator replacement can lead to a repair bill that is larger than the book value on a vehicle.
well they dont like to go above 80% of vehicle value. they booked the car with 157K as 3046, 80% is 2400ish, the labor alone to R&R a 4T80 in a deville is about 1300ish at their shop rate, a used trans with warranty is??? plus incidentals...plus what they owe us....we are looking at a check close to 4K and I am still arguing we want the $800 repair back since they took ownership of the repair, and I want an adjustment since the trans in the car was a lot, and 14 months old.

the seville might not be viable, they think head gasket and its $600 in parts/kit and about 2-3 solid days of your life that I dont have so....going to see the S60
 
Just cuz I'm feeling feisty today I'll let y'all know the last 5 years my high mileage 09 Challenger has had it's oil changed by....

Wait for it...

Jiffy Lube!!!

No horror stories.

I actually like the pierced tattooed "techs" they employ...
Cuz they change my oil in about ten mins and I get back to my life.

Take the wife's 2012 Sedona there too.

But I am the 1% I get it.

Sorry to hear of all the mishaps.


Matt
 
I can afford almost any car but I will not waste money on needless maintenance nor get ripped off by the dealer. This is why I drive a Crown Vic. Easy to maintain and parts are cheap. I'm dreading the day when e-vehicles become mandatory.

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not really the 1%, you are 'staying in their lane' (no pun with respect to jiffy lube) now if you went there and said 'hey, install a new water pump' methinks you might learn the number for the BBB quickly.
 
I can afford almost any car but I will not waste money on needless maintenance nor get ripped off by the dealer. This is why I drive a Crown Vic. Easy to maintain and parts are cheap. I'm dreading the day when e-vehicles become mandatory.

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i actually want a 'bosch mobile' as a project. put in a 5.0 coyote and remove the vic labels and replace with 'Talladega'
 
not really the 1%, you are 'staying in their lane' (no pun with respect to jiffy lube) now if you went there and said 'hey, install a new water pump' methinks you might learn the number for the BBB quickly.

It's a 30 minute job to change the water pump in a 4.6 2V. It is not an overlap engine and there is a timing chain, not a belt. I could do with better gas mileage but I save tons on maintenance.
 
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