Impracticalities Aside...

zenith2134

Lunatic Member
...Shouldn't every audiophile use class-a amplification?

Sure they get hot, suck up massive amounts of energy, and are usually bulky but in the pursuit of ultimate fidelity, in a hobby where people are spending insane amounts of money...it just stands to reason that an amp running in class-a would be the only choice.

I'm a big fan, but lack the money. But of course, money no object I would never buy a class-AB,T,D,G amplifier whether it be tube or solid state.
 
Register to hide this ad
Class D amps that I have heard sound just as good as class A's, that may be my unrefined ear but the electronics behind class D amps is pretty sound. The sample rate just has to be big enough...
 
...Shouldn't every audiophile use class-a amplification?

Sure they get hot, suck up massive amounts of energy, and are usually bulky but in the pursuit of ultimate fidelity, in a hobby where people are spending insane amounts of money...it just stands to reason that an amp running in class-a would be the only choice.

I'm a big fan, but lack the money. But of course, money no object I would never buy a class-AB,T,D,G amplifier whether it be tube or solid state.

If I said every person should use huge folded horn Klipsch speakers, would you agree with me?

:D
 
...Shouldn't every audiophile use class-a amplification?

Sure they get hot, suck up massive amounts of energy, and are usually bulky but in the pursuit of ultimate fidelity, in a hobby where people are spending insane amounts of money...it just stands to reason that an amp running in class-a would be the only choice.

I'm a big fan, but lack the money. But of course, money no object I would never buy a class-AB,T,D,G amplifier whether it be tube or solid state.

Why? If other designs have equally low distortion, then why discount them?

It's all about the distortion, no?

bs
 
No it's not all about the distortion....it's about keeping certain types of distortion (TIM, crossover distortion) low without using excessive amounts of NFB.
 
No, it's not all about distortion. Tubes have crazy distortion, but they're got the good harmonics that make them sound pretty.

Harmonics is where it's at. ;)

If all you're reproducing is 20~20 then that's great, you've got an amp that does what it's supposed to do. My Sony does DC to 200k, mind you not in class A, but it has the ability to reproduce everything, including the supporting harmonics that reinforce the audible range :)

From what I understand, at least...



Philip.


P.S. This summer I'm building the Pass A-40-- a 40W Class A amp :) My mind's made up ;)
 
Last edited:
Just for discussion's sake, would you not apply the same Class A amplifier criteria to every component in the audio reproduction chain?

Where would it all end? Audiogon?
 
Impracticalites aside I'd still choose my higher power ss amps over my class a tube amps 9 days a week and twice on Sundays. At sane listening volumes as well. To me the very very slight difference in sound doesn't justify the added cost and aggravation factor. I did have to drop the coin and find out for myself though.
 
No it's not all about the distortion....it's about keeping certain types of distortion (TIM, crossover distortion) low without using excessive amounts of NFB.


Sure, but is Class A any guarantee of better performance in these regards except, perhaps, crossover distortion?
 
Well designed and adjusted class AB's sound just as good as class A and it's just a matter of time for class D to catch up and be more than just subwoofer pushers.

az
 
Class A for the first 10 watts,...then slide into class A/B, sounds good to me. :music:
I rarely get my rig out of class A mode, given factors like my neighbours and the fact that I'm an old fart :tears: and don't play it screamin' loud anymore.

Damn it's nap time,...gotta go.

Cheers

Jeff
 
Some of my amps, like the Esotec PM-4, are selectable: you can choose to run them in Class A mode or Class AB mode.

I usually choose to run them in AB, despite a slightly lesser sound quality. The difference in sonics is there, but it isn't very major; I can thoroughly enjoy the sound of the AB mode without feeling as if I'm missing anything.

I'm more concerned about what effects the heat may have on the longevity of the gear. In the summer, I'm concerned about the room being warm enough already, too, without a toaster-amp being added. AB mode is cheaper and more environmentally friendly.

Yes, there are times when I want to squeeze that last ounce of sound quality out, and then I'll hit the switch for Pure Class A operation... but not most of the time; only on "special occasions". Class A is usually just too darned HOT for me to feel very comfortable about it as a regular thing! That said, I have amps that auto-switch from Class A for the first few watts, to AB for higher power; I don't pay any attention to what mode those may be operating in, but just let them 'do their thing' the way they were designed to.
 
Truth is I would love a couple of Krell KSA-100's. The old ones that ran in full Cass A
Yep, they sound really fine indeed. I have a friend who has one, freshly re-built. Only problem is they seem to roast themselves fairly often if you like your levels a bit elevated occasionally. I know this particular example had been rebuilt at least twice already.....
 
Hmm, a lot of interesting points are being raised.

Based on the replies so far, I think a big amp that remains in class-a for the first 50 watts is the best trade-off.
 
Back
Top Bottom