Inside and Out Series: Wharfedale Diamond 7.2 ALE

M Jarve

Audio Geek and NGE Freak
The Diamond 7 series by Wharfedale was Wharfedale’s first attempt at making the Diamond series an object of high-end desire to compete with the likes of the Paradigm Mini Montor and other favorite 2-way near-field monitors.

The Diamond series worked on the premise of the classic two-way monitor. Put a good tweeter and a decent woofer in a box and call it a day. Update the components now and then and re-badge it when you do. The original Diamond was not that much different from the iteration immediately preceding the Diamond 7.

The Diamond 7 series proved to be quite a different beast and took the line in a new direction. Where the Diamond of any particular generation had been a single model, the Diamond 7 was actually a series of initially 3 speakers: The Diamond 7.1, the Diamond 7.1 on steroids a.k.a. Diamond 7.2, and the floor-standing Diamond 7.3. The Diamond 7.2 and 7.3 shared the same drivers, but the Diamond 7.3 had provisions for bi-wiring/bi-amping, and a larger, floor standing enclosure that could be filled with sand or lead shot. The 7.1 was the “budget” version with an inferior tweeter and a less capable woofer.

The Diamond 7 series was also the first speakers made by Wharfedale that utilized the new composite “Audio Stealth” material. Audio Stealth, as the literature put it, was a composite material made of mineral impregnated polymers. It was acoustically inert and very strong (but very brittle). The front and rear baffles bolted together making the cabinet extremely well braced. A gasket kept the cabinet air tight where the front and rear baffles met the wood cabinet, and also acted to acoustically isolate the baffles from the wood.

When I was working at a local hi-fi shop in high school, the Diamond 7.2 was by far the best seller. It had a very broad frequency response, going down into “real” bass from just a little 5-inch woofer. Treble was typically British warm, but had plenty of detail. However, even when the Diamond 7.2 had just come out, I wished that there was a bi-amp model out too. Further, many speakers were damaged in shipping due to the very brittle nature of the Audio Stealth material. If the bolts were over tightened, the mounts would snap and rattle around inside the enclosure. We even suggested to our distributor that they ship the speakers disassembled, and save final assembly for the shop (though that never happened).

Less than a year later comes the Diamond 7.2 16th Anniversary Limited Edition (7.2ALE). The 7.2ALE was bi-ampable, and also sported an improved woofer and an updated tweeter. The cabinet was available in several real wood veneers. The Audio Stealth material had also been improved, as none of the ALE editions of the speakers arrived broken and they could even survive small falls, as we found out.

Sound-wise, the 7.2ALE went deeper in bass and much louder than the regular 7.2. The imaging was a little more focused, but less broad. The ALE also lost the nasal tone of the original 7.2. Most noticeable, though, was the greatly improved high-frequency response. The original 7.2 sounded down-right rolled off compared to the 7.2ALE, which had crisp and clean treble and only a hint of British dryness.

The Diamond 7.2ALE quickly became my favorite general purpose speaker. It was small enough to go anywhere and it had the almost magical quality of sounding good on any equipment. My main set (in rosewood) have been downright abused over the years: The cabinets are beat up, the baffles are nicked, and one is missing the single-amp jumpers. Still, they play perfectly on command, and sound great doing it. An over achiever loudspeaker if ever there was one.
 

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good info, i have always been curious as to how the Diamond 7 series and Diamond 8 series stacked up against one another. never have come across anything from either series though.
 
The only Diamond 8 I was able to compare directly with the 7.2ALE was the 8.1. In terms of sound (in my opinion) the 7.2ALE was all over the 8.1. To the 8.1's credit, it did have better midrange qualities than the 7.2ALE, but with the 8.1 you definitely knew you were listening to a bookshelf speaker. The 7.2ALE, and even the regular 7.2 could easily be mistaken for a much larger speaker.

The other complaint I had with the 8.1's was the connector panel. I thought the 7 series was bad because it could not accept dual banana plugs. The 8.1 was confusing to me.

One of the complaints I had (and my boss at the time had) about Wharfedale's product line was that it was too crowded. Except for the Diamond line, each product family had 6-9 different iterations from small bookshelf speakers to giant towers. The 7 series was refreshing in it's simplicity. Then the Diamond range became over complex with the 8 series, and the 9 series does not resemble the original intent of the Diamond range at all. From a classic 2-way British monitor to a complex arrayed 5 driver setup... Thank God for conglomerates. :worried:
 
the 8.2's and 8.4's have always intrigued me for some reason. never been able to hear them, but the Pacific series 2-ways and 3-ways are killers.
 
I have a pair of 7.3's that I found behind somebody's house in the trash (believe it or not).
I repaired the leads from the terminal strips to the cones on the bass speakers (not a easy job. Very delicate soldering here) and that was 3 years ago.

I am impressed with the 7.3's. They put out some nice clean low bass (40-ish Hz) and the midrange is clean. The fabric tweeters are alright. Not sharp like Titaniums or Mylars, but pleasant on the ears.

If one can find a good pair of used 7.3's that weren't abused, go for it. Probably one of the best sounding 5 1/4" 2 way speakers I've heard.
 
The Diamond 7 series by Wharfedale was Wharfedale’s first attempt at making the Diamond series an object of high-end desire to compete with the likes of the Paradigm Mini Montor and other favorite 2-way near-field monitors.

The Diamond series worked on the premise of the classic two-way monitor. Put a good tweeter and a decent woofer in a box and call it a day. Update the components now and then and re-badge it when you do. The original Diamond was not that much different from the iteration immediately preceding the Diamond 7.

I would like to know how you got them open. I cant figure it out. The six holes at the back dont seem to have screws in them. I have an old pair that need repair.
 
I would like to know how you got them open. I cant figure it out. The six holes at the back dont seem to have screws in them. I have an old pair that need repair.

There are 6 star/pozi screws from memory. You need a long screw driver as they are very deep within the speaker. I had mine open for tweeter replacement and put back together no issue.
 
Anyone know where i can get some wharfedale 7.1 diamond speaker grills? Ideally an 'stl' file for 3D print would be good?
 
I paid $40 for my pair of 7.2 ALE speakers from a local collector. He gave me a demo of the Wharfedales and some similarly sized Polks. I heard the highs on these things about 3 seconds into the song and my mind was made up. I can’t possibly imagine a better investment and value when it comes to home audio. The only downside are the grills, they are terrible! :rflmao:
 
I paid $40 for my pair of 7.2 ALE speakers from a local collector. He gave me a demo of the Wharfedales and some similarly sized Polks. I heard the highs on these things about 3 seconds into the song and my mind was made up. I can’t possibly imagine a better investment and value when it comes to home audio. The only downside are the grills, they are terrible! :rflmao:
Picked up a pair of non ALE 7.2’s for $40 today. Love them - great easy listening, very efficient…and those tweeters make sweet music without being harsh. Will enjoy these for a long time
 
I purchased a Wharfedale Diamond 7.2 speakers from eBay. I tried to start removing screws with a Phillips screwdriver but no turns because there is a kind of sponge. Any idea to get that sponge out to uncover screws from cabinets? I need to open cabinets because I think there is a screw resting inside by hearing noises when I tilt the cabinet.
Pat
 
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Use a piece of coat hanger to remove the foam retainer then a long screw driver for the Phillips head screws. The front and back can then be separated from the wood box.
 
Use a piece of coat hanger to remove the foam retainer then a long screw driver for the Phillips head screws. The front and back can then be separated from the wood box.
Do you need to remove the screws to get back off the wooden cabinet? Also where do you find a Philips head screwdriver with that long a handle ?
 
First remove sponge from cabinet rear side holes and then insert the Phillips screwdriver into the holes to unscrew them. Screwdriver 10 inches plus handle from eBay. I purchased a Snap-On screwdriver from there. When returning screws back use the screwdriver with a tube guide like a plastic straw from Mc Donalds restaurant to hold the screw. Return sponges back to holes. The screws go into plastic holes from the front side not to the wood. Have fun!
 
First remove sponge from cabinet rear side holes and then insert the Phillips screwdriver into the holes to unscrew them. Screwdriver 10 inches plus handle from eBay. I purchased a Snap-On screwdriver from there. When returning screws back use the screwdriver with a tube guide like a plastic straw from Mc Donalds restaurant to hold the screw. Return sponges back to holes. The screws go into plastic holes from the front side not to the wood. Have fun!
Thank you very much. The reason I asked that question is that 3 posts above, it was mentioned that the front and the back can be separated from the wooden cabinet. Which is why I asked if the back can be separated from the cabinet without removing the screws. I need to fix a tweeter that has dropped into the cabinet
 
First remove sponge from cabinet rear side holes and then insert the Phillips screwdriver into the holes to unscrew them. Screwdriver 10 inches plus handle from eBay. I purchased a Snap-On screwdriver from there. When returning screws back use the screwdriver with a tube guide like a plastic straw from Mc Donalds restaurant to hold the screw. Return sponges back to holes. The screws go into plastic holes from the front side not to the wood. Have fun!
Finally managed to remove the back panel. Used a long thin flathead screwdriver to gently poke/pierce the sponge, then swirl/twist a bit and pull it out which exposed the recessed 1” screws. Then used a 8” #2 Philips screw driver to unscrew the back panel.

Now I need some suggestions - the four flimsy plastic screw terminals holding the tweeters are all snapped (they really cut quality in this make), so the tweeters can’t be screwed back into place. What would be a good alternative other than to glue them in ? The snapped pieces are nowhere to be found for me to try to stick them back. Would some simple duct tape twisting around the corners hold the tweeter in place for the long term ? The magnet on the tweeter is pretty weighty. TIA
 

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Finally managed to remove the back panel. Used a long thin flathead screwdriver to gently poke/pierce the sponge, then swirl/twist a bit and pull it out which exposed the recessed 1” screws. Then used a 8” #2 Philips screw driver to unscrew the back panel.

Now I need some suggestions - the four flimsy plastic screw terminals holding the tweeters are all snapped (they really cut quality in this make), so the tweeters can’t be screwed back into place. What would be a good alternative other than to glue them in ? The snapped pieces are nowhere to be found for me to try to stick them back. Would some simple duct tape twisting around the corners hold the tweeter in place for the long term ? The magnet on the tweeter is pretty weighty. TIA

That’s a bit trickier, and you’ll have to figure out a way to make it work. I know that particular tweeter is quite heavy due to its magnet. If you want to mount it permanently, you’ll need to use epoxy resin and hardener. You won’t be able to remove the tweeter afterward.
 
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